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Chances are it is the AFM. If you haven't tried another set I would not do anything else before doing that.

I probably wouldn't want to use the term "come on boost at a respectable rpm" when your aiming for 500rwkw. RB26's are over square so that doesn't promote good boost response but I am not sure what VQ30's are. I would guess they are under square given the "lowly" 6500rpm limit. Twin t67's will get you there. Keir wilsons gtr uses these but I doubt they will come on boost before 5000rpm on a 3 litre. If the engine is in a 300zx you will have serious room issues as well.

GTRS's low mounted can make ~800hp at 1.6bar. I've seen it on a built rb28. Full boost by 5krpm. Looks stock as well. Otherwise I would go T04Z if you want a single or a T78 33d if you want a little more.

I don't know specifically for RB26 but the general consensus is that brand new performance engines have less than 5% leakdown. Up to 20% though is "acceptable". I personally would be concerned though if it was over 10%. Hope that helps.

You might be disappointed to find out then that the P1 Racing II Plus wheels are not forged. They are a cast rim.... Look so good though! Thinking about them for my s15 but can't decide between black and grey spokes.

Hey Chris, Paid in full under username and sent you an email. James

HKS GTRS is probably your best bet for power and the least lag on an rb25. Looking at ~$2200 delivered from nengun.com. You will need a flange adapter though to convert from t25 to t3.

You can be comfortable your exhaust gasket is gone. That can also cause the sporatic boost control. Don't leave it too long as it can burn an exhaust valve by giving it a hard time for a long period of time with the exhaust gasket leaking. The idle is not generally effected as bad as you seem to suggest it is though when the exhaust gasket is gone. Sounds like a vacuum problem to me in combination with the exhaust gasket. Do one thing at a time though and get the gasket repaired.

Is there any happening on a weekend? I am really keen and so are a couple of friends but we all work mon-fri

It was one of those deals that you can't get again (trade price from a friends brothers mums dog) but if you look around they are had for $300each

I think you'll find that bad emissions come from the engine running too rich. I personally would not run the engine to lean as partial throttle is typically the mostly likely time the car will ping as most tuners spend more time refining the flat out map rather than the partial throttle map. Saying all this... when you say tune the car I presume you are putting a power fc in? I would talk to someone you feel comfortable tuning your car and talk to them about running it very lean in partial throttle. I think you'll find they are hesitant to do it because if it blows its there creditability on the line. Its also good to keep things in perspective when worrying about fuel consumption. Say that you run it lean and reduce fuel economy by 3litres/100km which I think is optimistic by the way. Say you do 300km a week. That is 9 litres more that you would have used with a tune that is perfect for the engine. That is no more than $15 a week. You can't surely tell me that is going to kill your bank account. On another note, if you put a powerfc in, your fuel economy will improve anyway as the stock ecu runs the engine very rich. Hope that helps.

I think that will make boring reading having all cars that are stupidly fast. I don't think they have thought this through. Many people don't have any reference point to know how fast a 'normal' car round wakefield is! They have to get the fastest cars there for sure but to have all of them unroadworthy, unregistered >$100,000 cars I think is a mistake. Time will tell...

Thats in 3.5 weeks! I would hate to be in charge of coordinating 30 cars from all over australia to be at wakefield on a set date....I guess everyone invited will find out very soon.

Hi Croat, I would not high mount any turbo if I could avoid it. Granted that the boost control may be more accurate with an external gate but the heat problems and hassles you get with high mounting turbos in my opinion is just not worth it. Once high mounted people commonly have problems with the abs unit over heating (if you have one) and everything else overheating because the heat is stuck under the bonnet let the hassles you will have if a cop sees your turbo high mounted. Instead of high mounting I would be tempted to get a really good dual solenoid boost controller and a split dump pipe if you don't already have them both. Just my thoughts. Good luck and I hope it helps a little.

I saw a preview on A Current Affair that will air on wednesday 15th feb about how everyone should contest speeding fines. The police have apparently not been looking after their gear and everyone can now get off... bla bla bla. I am sure it will be spectacularised and not the entire truth but may be worth watching.

I am not sure what AAV stands for but I know the idler control valve can screw up and when it does the car in 1st gear with no throttle wants to kangaroo badly.

I have never heard of the profec A. Is it old? I would get the profec S. It is really simple and just has 3 knobs. One for gain, one for high boost and one for low boost. I have heard the profec B's screen can do funny things but that I have only 'heard' not seen.

I would have: 1. Bugatti Veyron (dailiy driver) Just have to get to know a smash repairer pretty well to have the key marks repaired. 2. R34 GTR Z-Tune (circuit) 3. Porsche GT3 (circuit) 4. I'm with you on this one SW20: BMW M5 on 20's (backup daily driver for when the Bugatti is having key marks removed) 5. My S15 (circuit/hill climb/skid pan) Who said you don't want choice when you get to the circuit. A bugatti is way to fast to take to a circuit. It is quicker than an F1 to 200mph. You have to have a death wish to want to properly caine that thing round eastern creek.

Hi Scotsman, my wheel alignment was done at East Coast Suspension which is supposed to be good. I have since found out though that I was not entirely fair on the sp9000's as I have never really liked the front end of my car and that was due to the front spring rates not being hard enough, the standard (too hard) bump stops and the whiteline swaybars being incorrectly set. I have had the bars fixed and it has made a big difference but it is bottoming out in the front all the time (only lowered 1 inch). Its not really obvious but you can feel it and it makes the car very nervous on imperfect surfaces (read: sydney roads). I just need to get the custom springs made up and I have a funny feeling my opinion of the 9000's will change.

You can but its not quite as simple as that. You basically have two tables and a correction map for air density vs timing. One is for ignition timing and the other is for injector timing. With too much timing the car will have to run excessively rich not to ping and that is what I am guessing is happening to you. Putting bigger injectors with the power you have is a band aid. The car will run WAY better getting in tuned with your existing injectors rather than buying bigger ones. Not only will it make more power being tuned with the existing injectors but it will also be much nicer to drive in terms of throttle response and the linear nature of the power delivery as well as using much less petrol. Seriously get it tuned asap... You won't regret it With the stock turbo your car should make around the 160-175rwkw mark. But all dynos will show slightly different figures. They are just tuning tools. If your in sydney PM me and I will suggest a place to go who will do a good job. A proper tune is also cheaper than injectors as well!

One is tuned leaner than the other. I am guessing that the pfc on the (redtop) car is running way to rich. Get the redtop car tuned properly and that won't happen. Do you have a dyno sheet of the redtop car tuned? If you do, make sure the afrs are above 11.5 but under 12.0 roughly for a reliable street car.

A good friend of mine has them in that size. They are very impressive you won't be disappointed.

What is the track like at calder? Fast, slow, technical, open? Is there many things to hit?

Yeah thanks steve it was great. The only small frustration of the day was the SLOW selfish cyclists who rode in small groups 30 metres apart making it harder to get past through the national park.

Oil in your radiator generally means you have done the head gasket. White smoke coming out the exhaust is steam and ensures that is whats wrong. That smell is steam and coolant. You will now have water in your oil as well.... My advice is don't drive it at all. I would suspect that the bearings have now done the headgasket from vibration. That vibration I suspect is the crankshaft not spinning square. If you drive it with screwed bearings then you will end up having to replace the crank and I think they are pretty expensive for GTR's. Also with the crank not running square you could score the bore badly enough that you need a new block.... Thats not cheap either. Take it to an expert as soon as you can is what I would do.