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If you want to dump your car so it looks sick these aren't the coilovers for you due to the cost, however, they can.

Be careful of these. These are the hill climb tyres and are 3 years old and are from a large patch that were parallel imported. They are not really any good for circuit work as they will overheat.

Is the car in neutral with the clutch out when making the noise? If so, its the spigot bearing and is nothing to worry about until it gets really bad and starts clunking. It sits just behind the flywheel so the cost to fix is the same as the labour required to change the clutch

Thanks Chris. :PBJ: When you saw it last it had the kyb's in it. Car is seriously emptying the wallet at the moment. See you at the heasemans night. James

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=226630 I put it in the motorsport section as there seems to be less muppets... I don't think they have found it yet.

I put it up there in motorsport to hopefully reduce the amount of muppets but i'm still scared. For those interested, my car will be at the Tech night at Heasemans in sydney in a few weeks time.

Thats the plan work permitting. Before the camber tops the car felt like the quick BMW's, mercedes- it was super quiet and the ride incredibly controlled. With the camber tops don't get me wrong it is still just as comfortable and controlled. Its just that you get more noise coming into the cabin eg. over sharp bumps you hear it. It is not that bad. Friends of mine reckon its nothing but I am incredibly picky. The camber tops have more compliance (less noise getting into cabin) than japanese pillowball tops as they have quite a bit of urethane. Don't let my feedback on the noise put you off. Its simply an observation. Most times you drive it you won't even hear anything but if you do go over very sharp bumps you hear it. Thanks! No, plan is this month at the powerplay track day, hopefully beforehand.

No worries. Pleased its valuable.

I am one of the test dummies. I have posted my thoughts- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=162859

Start off by apologising for the long post but I think it gives context. Secondly, a big thank you to Gary (sydneykid). He has been incredible to deal with and I have learnt so much along the way. He is also a great character. I know this is a Skylines forum but there seems to be a number of people with s15's. My car was the test dummy for the most ‘extreme’ coilover kit. Its probably best explaining my journey with my suspension to give context. Phase 1 Bought the car with standard suspension and then fitted whiteline adjustable swaybars. 27mm front and 20mm rear. This reduced roll significantly. Turn in improved and the car felt sharper and more stable. Probably the best value for money upgrade so far. Phase 2 Decided I would improve the suspension thinking I would finish off the primary hardware making it a nice compromise between the road and track by fitting KYB AGX shocks and Dobson springs. This lowered the car 1 inch. I then fitted a rear camber kit to correct the excessive rear camber. The car now felt like a death trap with shocking diagonal pitching creating a car that was very nervous, difficult to drive and very very uncomfortable even though the rates were very soft (3.4kg/mm front, 2.2kg/mm rear- standard rates for lowered springs for an s15). The car now looked like it had extremely stiff springs driving behind it as it ‘chopped’ over bumps. On long drives along less than perfect mountain roads the car actually became very unpredictable and inspired absolutely no confidence. It began to ‘float’ at anything over 110km/hr round corners and all the weight of the car felt like it was in the front outside corner, ie. The car permanently felt like it want to pitch you straight forward off the road if you were going 1km/hr too fast. My rationale at the time behind going with softer springs and normal adjustable shocks is that talking to many people they had suggested that Japanese coilovers are too stiff and make the car unpleasant to drive on a daily basis. Actually reduce the predictability of traction and overall grip on rough roads (ie Sydney roads) due to the spring rates being too stiff. Phase 3 After hearing great reports from Skyline owners, I then approached Gary (Sydneykid) to make something very special, the other extreme if you like, putting together a top end package that was guaranteed to perform. It is worth noting I am very fussy with suspension as I have had a number of cars that all handled very well on and off the track. Gary then discussed with me my expectations, the modifications done so far and any planned and the way I wanted the car to handle. Gary then recommended a Bilstein coilover kit but with some special high grade parts in the shocks which included the big daddy 50mm multi-orifice competition spec pistons and a 32 valve stack. Further to my fussiness I also requested that the car not be crashy and unpleasant to drive to the point where the car felt and sounds like a cheap piece of crap. Hence a 32 valve stack was put in that makes the shocks incredibly adaptable to road conditions having a wide spectrum of road surfaces it can control. To put that in context, similarly priced Tein coilvers have a 12 valve stack which is a comparatively small window of rough and smooth roads that the shock can control the spring. Hence they are adjustable so you can move the window in which they are efficient. With a 32 valve stack the adjustability is no longer required as they work across the entire spectrum from hard to soft on the Teins without sacrificing ride quality. While putting these in I also put in front camber bolts to give me more adjustment even though I knew strut tops were coming. With this completed the car now drove like a Euro. Even though I had near doubled the standard spring rates, the car was more comfortable but also much sharper. Gary will tell you I am very critical, hard to impress and extremely picky but these just blew me away. Only problem was that I could only get 1 degree of camber in the front. The car had a fair bit of understeer at the limit due to the lack of front camber and, in Gary’s opinion, slightly a too smaller rear bar, which is upgraded in Phase 5. Phase 4 When it came time for strut tops we decided to wait and trial the new Noltec inverted strut tops which give the car an extra 23mm of travel which to anyone who understands the limitations of the Macpherson strut front end in the s15 will be amazed by. While these do have a spherical bearing in them, they are encased in polyurethane. This reduces the NVH (crashiness) that comes from the common pillow ball tops due to them being basically metal to metal and therefore transferring noise. They can adjust both camber and castor and unlike the old ones are easy to adjust without jacking the car up. Being precise is quite easy. With the new strut tops, I definitely noticed an increase in NVH compared to the standard rubber tops. But nowhere near as bad as other cars I have ridden in with the usual pillow ball tops. Gary warned me that they would be a little harsher, but they were necessary to allow the camber and caster that I required. They are noticeable, but only over road joins, ie harsh, sharp bumps. However, the car now has incredible turn in and feels very stable and composed. It now inspired confidence and was a joy to drive. When the car previously dropped all its weight like one of the biggest losers changing sides in a dinghy, it happened slowly but eventually dangerously. The transformation is amazing. Phase 5 The car was yet to get a wheel alignment and I was waiting on the bigger rear swaybar. Once the 22mm rear bar arrived I then booked it in to have the castor bushes and new larger swaybar fitted. The reason I am not fitting rose jointed adjustable castor and camber arms is because Gary is strongly against rose jointed arms in a car that is driven on the street because they wear out so quickly and once they do they rattle which is irritating and you then get dynamic camber (changes when it wants, due to the ‘play’ in the joint) and castor which is VERY bad for the cars handling. Suffice to say I was very pleased with the alignment. With a Macpherson strut, unlike a multilink, you want as much castor as possible without rubbing the front guards. Typically, those with rose jointed arms tend to get 8.5-9 degrees castor at best but have to remove the front liners because the wheel rubs. I managed to get 9 degrees castor but did not have to remove the guards because the camber bushes pulled the arm forward and the camber tops pulled the strut back giving a substantial amount of castor without pulling the wheel too far forward. Obviously I lose a little bit of anti-dive not having the wheel as far forward but I am pleased I can keep my liners at least for the moment until the fly out and I drive over them at the track. I can now easily adjust my camber for road and track without even jacking the car up. I just undo 3 bolts and adjust the camber to either 1, 1.75 or 2.5 degrees of camber. I like 1.75 on the street even though Gary tells me it’s too much. I was advised that I don’t need anymore than 2.5 degrees of front camber even though some would disagree because I have a stiffer rear bar which will improve turn in and reduce the compromise the additional camber will give to braking. The car is now incredible. Turn in is incredible, at mid corner the car is now very stable and balanced and on the corner exit the car can put the power down really well. Gary certainly gave me some insights that goes against the grain of what is typically suggested in the track community but once questioned, (I certainly asked enough of them J) he was always able to provide a rational reason why this was the case and where the misconception came from. Typically this related to type of shocks, spring rates, swaybar rates used and the alignment settings. Good suspension is a combination of the parts involved, no one part on it’s own will make a car handle well. Most of all (best of all) it is possible to have a car that handles great and yet doesn’t shake your teeth loose. Gary told me, after my car was finished, that he was using it (and me) as a test for some S15 suspension kits that he was developing. Similar to what he did for Skylines, so anyone thinking of suspension for their S13/14/15 I strongly suggest that you look out for the Group Buy on SAU. Will have some feedback on how it is on the track in the next month, I am really interested in finding out how much faster it is now with the new suspension kit in it. Thanks to Gary (Sydneykid) and Exceller Steering, my car now handles and rides like I always wanted.

I'm in. Add me to the list as well.

Eug, Couple of questions: 1. What turbo are you using? You didn't mention you changed it to make 270rwkw??? Was there a turbo change between unigroup and UAS? 2. Yavuz recently tuned a GTR and it made over 700rwhp... 220rwkw his limitation... unlikely. I appreciate you didn't have a good experience with Yavuz and are sharing it but I just can't see how there is essentially only a cam change (already had a intercooler etc) and you gain 50rwkw. As you can see I am a bit of a yavuz advocate

What tyres are they?

Leak down test involves blowing a lot of air through the spark plug hole and measuring the pressure the cylinder can hold. This is fiddly as you have to hook the compressor up to a cylinder and then turn the crank until both valves are closed to get a reading. It is more accurate than a compression test gauge as oil can cover up worn rings where as this doesn't let anything hide. If the rings are worn badly you will get air up through the dipstick and if the valve stems are worn then you will hear air out the intake or exhaust. <20% leakdown is considered ok while you really want under 10%. New engines generally have about 3%.

I can confirm 100% that every 3db is doubling the noise.

Unfortunately I am not sure the public will make the distinction between the club and forum...

I have driven siksII's car many times and you can get any car into first if you really want to but as he said you have to double clutch. If you don't double clutch the synchro is required. Do some research on what a synchro is and how it works and you will realise that everytime you go down gears if you don't single shuffle and match the revs the synchro is being worn. This is really basic twitchy- it won't go into first when it used to at speed because you have worn the synchro really badly. You were just lucky to have a really good gearbox in the first place that would let you put it into first without double clutching. Match the revs and double clutch and the synchro's don't get used.

Forged pistons do expand but if an engine is built with the right clearances it shouldn't really burn any oil. I would suggest as Abobob alluded to that the engine wasn't built tight enough. On the upside- when an engine is built loose it will typically make more power even though it consumes oil. Race engines typically have 6-8 thou bore to piston clearance and chew through the oil but there is less friction and therefore less heat generated which improves the reliability and life of he engine.

Remember the 5k for the parts does not include labour... The machining and labour costs will absorb at least 2.5k to do it properly.

I would suggest its not the engine but the microtech. The resolution on those things is really poor. You just can't have a really good tune. They are great if the car is only going to run flat out (ie drag racing) but not very accurate with partial throttle and closed loop.

9000rpm with a stock bottom end is not going to last very long. I think it is widely accepted that over 350rwkw you are cheating death an rb26. The older it is the more you have to be worried about. You will also definitely need a power fc so the car will start and run and injectors, cams and fuel pump to make any sort of efficient use of the turbo.

Although buses technically have right of way when pulling out they are supposed to do so safely. I have been in a situation a few times where I was already past the end of the bus or just about to be and have had to drive on the wrong side of the road to avoid an accident. I guess its possible that happened and the bus clipped him.

Thats actually incorrect. Just to help you understand- yes the exhaust gases are all going through the turbine when the engine is off boost but no the turbine is not spinning very fast. When puttering around the exhaust gases are a lot cooler and moving much more slowly than when you have your foot nailed and there is more airflow going through the engine, so therefore out the exhaust and also a lot more heat. It is not only the airflow that spins your turbo it is also the heat. The turbo is spinning its fastest when the wastegate opens. The reason the wastegate opens is because the engine has produced its desired amount of pressure in the inlet tract so it is diverting gasses away from the turbine to prevent the engine making anymore boost. The turbines speed is proportional to the pressure created in the inlet manifold. Also, remember boost is a measure of restriction not power. Sorry to hi-jack.

I don't agree. I think GTST are nicer on the street as they have response ie boost very early making them quicker point to point on the street. GTR's are very lazy below 3500. GTST's on the otherhand are up and ready by 2500rpm. Don't get me wrong I really enjoyed driving the 3 I have driven and will buy one in the future but I think on the street a gtst is more practical and useable. You reckon? I actually think GTR's feel slow even when they are quick. I have been in two GTR's with 300awkw that have run 11's and although they are very quick to me it doesn't feel like it. I think its because GTR's are so stable. My s15 on the other hand only has 200rwkw and feels faster than a friends 250rwkw GTR even though the GTR ran a 12.3 and mine is only good for a high 12. My car would be far slower than the GTR (even in gear) but because the s15's/gtst's don't feel as stable I reckon they feel faster. My first ride in a GTR was a built one with N1's. It felt reasonably fast but I wasn't blown away. The first one I drove was a dead stock r33 gtr and the power feels so linear that it didn't really excite me at all. I was really impressed by the brakes and the chassis though, it felt so sure footed. As I said though I will definitely buy a GTR, actually I almost bought one a month ago but the *potential* cost of ownership put me off.

Please don't buy G4's they are COMPLETE rubbish. Anyone that tells you otherwise either doesn't know what good suspension is like or is a sales person selling them. Remember a hard ride doesn't mean good handling. That is the most common misconception. The dampers are by far the most important factor in the equation. When you buy the chinese and even jap shocks you are getting twin tube shocks which are inferior to the monotube bilsteins. Get SK's suspension, it will be more comfortable and handle better than the G4's. If the car is primarily a street car don't get pillowball tops.. they are rose jointed and will rattle like there is no tomorrow and really annoy you. Camber bolts are satisfactory for your purpose.