nfi

I remember the GTR review... The one I am think of was a white one with all the details etc. It wasn't on the cover though. The only review of a GTR I have seen with an HSV was in HPI. It was a blue r34 GTR vs Black HSV GTS. They were both mildly modified.

I would agree that your AFM's are maxed out but I interpreted that you were getting wayward afr's on cruise, therefore in closed loop. If thats the case then the afms won't be maxing out. My guess would be one of two things: 1. Your AFM's are stuffed and giving out inconsistent readings 2. Your fuel pressure is all over the shop.\ 3. (not sure on this one) Maybe TPS (throttle position sensor) I would have thought that for AFR's to be inconsistent there would have to be a sensor giving out consistent voltage. Find it and my guess is it would fix the problem. Regarding the power- I think sydneykid and a few others have covered that off far better than I can.

Is this talk of $300... Am I on the wrong webpage? http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_electronics.htm

Its unnecessary and a waste of time. If the turbo has been highflowed correctly there is no need to use an external wastegate. The highflowed standard wastegate should more than suffice. As others have said, sell the wastegate and use the money for something else.

Mmm my wheels! I am in the bad books with the girlfriend at the moment because I have them in the lounge room (while I wait for the new suspension to be finished) so they don't get stolen in the garage.... I personally think they look great next to the couch... personal preference I guess.. Sorry for whoring thread... as everyone said look for forged monoblock on the rims. SiksII and I weighed them. The rear 8.5in rim was 18.5kg with 235/45/17 FYI. Stock s15 rims are 22.5kg. Surprisingly heavier than r33 rims by a decent margin.

^^I agree. I looked into selling the s15 and getting a gtr for quite some time. It is just not worth the risk winding up the turbos as the cam overlap is so that if a wheel does come off there is a good change the dust from it coming off will end up scoring the bore and damaging all the bottom end bearings. GT-SS are not much bigger than factory but are extremely efficient. They will come on boost the same as stock but with 1.2 bar make between 280-310rwkw depending on the dyno, engine and tuner.

It is a different flange. S15 is t25. R33 is t3. Adapter plates are very cheap though. You won't hope to make anymore than 190rwkw with an s15 turbo on an r33. Considering the stock one will make 200rwkw at lower boost would suggest its a better idea.

Where does the pistons go?

1 AFR is a lot... In my opinion that is far to lean and seriously risking detonation with even a slight batch of bad fuel or a hot day/hard thrash. I would suggest that the person that tuned your car doesn't really care about it blowing up unless he is not really sure what he's doing because that is seriously lean. I would almost bet that a few laps on the track and it would be the end. If you buy a power fc or at least buy a safc that will have the problem solved Actually, if you want to do it on the cheap, you might even get away with a fuel pressure reg as that will add fuel everywhere which is what you need. MODS: Please edit post if I have written something inappropriate.

I siliconed up a friends series 2 coils that started to miss and it didn't work. He bought splitfire coilpacks and it was fixed. You couldn't even see any cracks in the broken coilpack.

The reason I think you will find that the street setups are 500+ and the drag setups are 600+ is that there is no such thing as a responsive gtr wtih 600awhp. There is no such thing as a magical setup that will have minimal lag and 600awhp. That sort of power means you aren't going to see full boost till after 5500rpm. If you want anything even remotely resembling what I would define as a street car you will need a 2.8 or ideally a 3.0l bottom end. I think your only option to low mount and make that sort of power would be the big housing Trust T518z (10cm rear). This is going to be really laggy. Also, when you refer to 'shuffle' I am guessing you are referring to compressor surge which is always going to be an issue when you have a big turbo/s. I know of a car that had a 2.6l bottom end with GTRS's and had no compressor surge. Its all in the timing. That car now has a 2.8l bottom end and its now not laggy and still doesn't get compressor surge. It did before it was tuned but does not anymore. It is all in the timing. If I was you I would lower my power targets so the car will be a true street car. What your forgetting is that lag makes cars really slow on the street. If you aren't making full boost till >5500 you aren't going to be scaring anyone unless you dump it at 8000rpm in which case with that much power you are also going to smash the gearbox to pieces. If you don't launch it that hard you are going to go nowhere for the first 50 metres. I think you will find you will enjoy your car a lot more with about 350awkw and have a car that is not laggy and not going to smash the gearbox. Hope that helps.

Can I suggest you jump on google and on this forum and search for what each of those things you mention do. Slapping a whole lot of products together doesn't necessarily mean you make power. eg. forged pistons- make no additional horsepower and are simply stronger Fuel pump- makes you no additional power. You only add it when your standard one can't supply enough fuel to make the power you want to make 1000cc injectors- these make you no power either and they would be over kill for a car with less than 900hp. You also need an aftermarket computer to run different injectors. My advice would be to leave the car standard and enjoy the car how it is and take it to track days where you can learn how to drive. Then once you get off your P's buy a turbo car and you will then get much better value for money when you modify it.

Your an idiot. Comments like that destroy the scene for the rest of us. Good luck surviving the rest of your teens with an attitude like that.

Write off- I would avoid the D-jetro if you want the nicest car possible to drive. Djetro can make more power sometimes due to the absence of the AFM as a restriction but the djetro are much harder to tune and are drawing on a signal (MAP sensor) which is much less accurate than an AFM which makes for a car that doesn't drive quite as well. Unless your worried about every last kilowatt I would buy the AFM version and save yourself money on tuning and have a nicer car to drive.

Very nice! 8 piston just adds to the bling as well. Have you investigated what pads the calipers support? I am guessing porsche? Bman, to say you have had your fair share of dodgy dealings is a gross understatement Luckily for SAU club members you have taken enough bad luck to cover the 'team'....... I mean club

Duncan- I have to retreat on my campaign against the sp9000's. I now have them on the front on some 17's with 235 on the front and they are very impressive. Guess the aspect ratio of the standard rims combined with a lack of width contributed to the horrible handling. I have not changed the suspension at all and it is very nice. Turn in is sharper and there is now actually grip!

Further to siksII's comments I went to get new tyres with a friend and bought SP9000's for the front 235/45/17 and Dunlop Sport Maxx's for the rear 255/40/17 and to me the sport maxx's are definitely a better tyre. The wheels tyre test used the sp9000 as a control tyre a couple of years ago and it got destroyed by almost everything. The Sport maxx's were in the recent tyre test and did very well. They came first or second. Next time you buy tyres go to eagle tyres at Granville you will save a motsa. Friend paid: SP9000's 235/45/17- $200 Sport Maxx's 255/40/17- $240

I wouldn't totally agree! Ask Duncan and anyone that has done Dutton or something similar. You will often find your friends are faster in your car as they will have much less mechanical sympathy I haven't let anyone other than me drive mine but I wouldn't be surprised if a friend did.

Wonder how many law suits they have going against them from tight a** who bought them and want to know why it cracked 3 ringlands?

Buy spring washers and those brackets that stop the nuts from turning. Forget what they are called.

When you saw flat spot you mean the spark is breaking down? Hence gapping the plugs right down? Do you have stock coil packs? My guess is that your coil packs are either screwed or not strong enough for the power you are making. Hence the requirement to gap the plugs down so much. As a result you are not burning the fuel properly and its just bleeding down past the rings and there you have it, its in your oil. My 2c. EDIT: Just read the second page after posting- SK's theory on the injectors sound much more likely than my wooly theory. Even brand new injectors can have inconsistent or poor flow. Remember all it takes is a build up in one of the injectors and it won't close and that would explain your problem. First thing I would do is take out all the injectors and get them checked and clean. Not too expensive and won't hurt to do it anyway.

Hasn't Bel Garage changed hands? I heard from a very good source that the business was sold. Obviously new owners are looking to be known. Note: Mainline dynos read a lot lower than dyno dynamic dynos, Ben (old tuner of Bel) said about 15% less.

Your wastegates fine. When that screws up, which mine did I had no boost at all in the top end. I wouldn't worry too much about the power figure. 186rwkw is about right. Mine has made between 187-195 on the same dyno on different days on the same boost setting. Just see if you can get the boost a bit more stable and your set. All good. Having a bit of oil residue in the pipework is pretty normal. As someone else said it will just be the head breathing. As for the comment about sr's cracking pistons at 190rwkw- anything is possible but it is the common consensus that a sr20 if tuned properly will last forever with <=200rwkw. 200-250 is leaning on it and beyond that things start to break. That said the GT Autosound drift car (HPI) which is now Christian Pickerings drift car makes 306rwkw with a stock bottom end!

This is not nfi, was still logged in as wrong user so deleted post.

Guys, no need to worry about ferry. Last weekend went in a friends 180 that is seriously low with fibreglass front bar. With a 45 degree angle which you could do better than the front bar on just touched the ramp which is perfectly smooth. On the way down didn't even touch. This car is seriously low so wouldn't worry.