nfi

Interestingly Bilstein australia use MCA external canisters. Also, you can put PSS9 adjustable valve stacks in non adjustable bilsteins for about $1700-1800. MCA external cannisters about $2500.

I'd suggest going with an r33 4.11 rear diff. You need the abs model for it to fit in an s15. The s14 3.9 is a bit tall when your going to have a fair bit of lag and a lot of power.

Take any turbo car for a hard drive at night and pop the bonnet. I wouldn't worry. Just don't turn the boost up to more than 10psi with the stock turbo.

You missed the point... ah well... As you say though, as long as your happy with it and enjoying it thats all that matters.

Run it down the quarter and see what mph you get. That's the best measure. Not sure why you don't care though after investing that much... Imagine if you found the car was 50kw down on power (unlikely) compared to other cars with similar mods when you put it on a sydney dyno? I would be very disappointed and I think you would be too.

Gold. Forums would be boring without honesty and wit.

Dirtgarage these sort of comments are pointless and don't help your cause. If winning superlap was as easy as buying a Vipec then they certainly are pretty special. You know as well as anybody that the ecu is small part of a fast circuit car. Your comment is as valid as saying "A few of the NSW roundy roundy boys were bagging the product only because i was using and recommending them...only to have their asses handed to them by turbosmart fuel reg equipped cars at Superlap." Sorry Bomberman, car is panning out very nicely. Back on topic.

:) Looks the goods. Thanks Dane.

Please do show those pics.... cheers.

Offsets will fit. You won't have any worries there.

Also, thats not the "lang" kit That is a licorice all sorts kit. M sports front bar vertex ridge side skirts M sports rear guards vertex rear bar

SAU Nickname: Nfi Car Make and Model: Nissan 200sx Circuit Name: Wakefield Lap time: 1.08.1 Modifications Engine: SR20 Power: ~215-220rwkw Suspension: Bilsteins Tyres: RE55's Brakes: stock with DS2500's Body weight: 1250kg

Get it right... its a refined tractor

Go Ben well done!

Interesting- i've never tested it. Where/how did you test them? S15 ones fit fine but are very heavy. I have heard of the poor fitment, friend of mine had to send his whiteline bars back for his evo 6 as they hit the chassis and were actually warped.

sr20 oil filter is less than half the size of the rb25 oil filter.

Those weight savings are really nice but given the whiteline/roadholder/selby/redranger swaybars are solid they are probably a lot stiffer than the hollow cusco's. Are the cusco's thicker than the whiteline's to counter the reduction in rigidity due to it being hollow?

What do you have in mind as the purpose for the car? If it involves track work then any of the engines proposed will make the car handle worse than it does stock.. If you just want a toy that is fun and a bit different then go for which ever you like/have the budget to support.

If you visualise how the brake master cylinder stopper helps.... ie. once you have pressed the brake pedal hard enough that the firewall is flexing and the master cylinder can stop that flex..... you'll see what I mean that it can't help with the initial soft pedal. If your r33 gtr is properly bled with good fluid etc and nothing is wrong with the master and you think its soft you'd be disturbed by how bad ABS equipped gtst's and s14-15 feel! If you want to sell your brembo's let me know

O2 sensors aren't even being used when your accelerating. They are only being used at cruise when the engine is in closed loop.

18x9.5 +38 on the rear (265/40/18) 18x8.5 +32 on the front (235/40/18) Will easily fit but you could probably quite easily go to a 10 inch rear rim with much harder core offset so it looks better and can take a bigger tyre with a bit of guard work.

Your missing the point. All springs are quite similar that are used for lowering.. they are all hot wound which is sh*t but apart from that you can't lower the car at all without getting good quality shock absorbers without destroying the handling. No fancy name brand spring is going to fix the problem. The shock is what does most of the work and is also expensive. Once you add it up you'll realise its cheaper and better just to do it properly and get good quality coilovers. That way the car which actually handle better not worse.. And yes once you lower the car 30-40mm (which is a lot) whether its with coilovers or lowered springs you are compromising the handling of the car even if you use the best quality coilovers. Cars are at a height for a reason. Nissan don't set it really high because they want it to look stupid... So with your 30-40mm lower you are going to need rear camber arms (or bushes if your tight) so you don't chew out the inside edges of your tyres and also probably toe arms because again, the standard arms can't cope with that much lowering.

I have found that skyline, 200sx's with ABS always have a mushy pedal. I have never driven one that doesn't. I reckon I would have driven probably 10 skylines and maybe 15 s15's. The skylines without ABS always have firm pedals. GTR's this is never an issue though they don't seem to have a problem... I have a hypothesis though..... Given the skylines without ABS have firm pedals and the rest of the skylines and all s15 (given they all have ABS) have a mushy pedal (even with braided lines, track pads, RBF600) I think it has more to do with the master cylinder. When a person upgrades their calipers to brembo's or something bigger on a gtst or a s15 they always complain of a spongy pedal. Once the master cylinder is upgraded it fixes the problem. What i think is happening on gtst's and s15's is once you add ABS the master cylinder is just not big enough to cope with the additional capacity/load (even though its hydraulic and therefore shouldn't matter) of the ABS system so it hence spongy. Having driven an s15 with brembo's and a 350z master cylinder, even with the ABS the pedal was nice and firm throughout its travel.

No worries. Exhaust leaks I have a passionate hate for... SR20's sound like tractors enough already without leaks I would check the injectors yourself because the tuner might not even be aware of that feature since its a bit obsecure. He may have left it on to cool the bores but I think its very unnecessary given it compromises response quite heavily as the engine is super rich when you get back on the throttle after backing off and has the potential to actually cause detonation and also wash the bores (of oil) which is really bad. Just literally look at the injector duty cycle and watch the real time readout after backing off. It should go to 0.0%.

In my experience... The most common causes of flames I have seen (in order) are: 1. No cat (track days destroy cats.. (I had one blow out the exhaust down the straight a flaming molten lava) 2. Injectors aren't switched off on decel 3. Exhaust leak- because you need oxygen and the engine has used up most of it when it combusted it not as easy for it to ignite and hence only happens at full noise when the car isn't using every last bit of it and the exhaust is red hot. When you have an exhaust leak, on decel the engine goes into vacuum and the exhaust sucks (through the gasket leaks) fresh air.. combine that with a red hot exhaust and you get flames even at partial/mid throttle. (in addition obviously to the fresh air (hot once its gone through the motor) being sucked through the engine on decel). I would put my money in your case as being likely being a combination of all three. Cats don't last long when you are making big power (1.6 bar +GTSS's suggests to me your making a bit ;-) ) as they just get too hot and I wouldn't be surprised if your injectors are not turning off. Diagnosis 1. Stick your arm underneath the car and give it a good bash with your fist. If it rattles then its obviously self explanatory, its a dull sound then might be all good and if its sounds empty then that would suggest you no longer have one. Otherwise just take it out yourself its really easy. Alternatively, take it to an exhaust shop. Shouldn't cost much at all for them to take it out and put it back. 2. Easiest way to check this is accelerate to 80km/hr on a straight road with decent revs and then just back off. Watch the duty cycle on the power FC. If it doesn't go to 0% within a few of seconds then that will be a large contributing factor. 3. Minor gasket leaks you might not even hear. I had one that you could barely hear when under the car. Jack the car up on stands and then start the car (make sure its stable) then carefully put your hands round each gasket without touching the exhaust and feel for exhaust escaping. Only guaranteed way I have found to do it.