Johnny

They werent bad, bit heavy though. On another note, the flat tyre i had was caused by a tiny nail which had embedded itself right in the centre tread and caused the air to slowly be released (exactly why i never actually knew about it on the road, it was in my garage when it deflated) I took it to the tyre factory to have the puncture repaired, cost 20bux and all but 5minutes and my tyre was fixed which was a relief to me, cos i didnt want to have to buy 2 new tyres (especially these bridgestones)

Thankyou soooo much, jst got them off! must explain: on my old r33 the rims needed a large plastic nut remover and i thought this was the same I jst got the rim off and the tyre was punctured by a screw, ill take a pic and post it a lil later. I wasnt gonna paint them

Hey guys, Im wonderdering is there a special tool to remove the standard r34 gtr wheel centre caps? these things: Where can i buy a tool for it or is it safe to use like a giant wrench? Would appreciate the help -Johnny

Fantastic! why are you changing to a single throttlebody? is there any benefits over the stock 6? is your engine standard? no internal work perhaps cams/gears

hey mate 1: Most people do their mods in stages so you dont have to do them all at once. first mod is usually a turbo back exhaust, high flow cat and pod filter second stage is intercooler, electronic boost controller and aftermarket computer 2: most mechanics should be able to fix problems with your car, the rb engine series is extremely easy to work on compared to other european engines. 3: Definitely get a tuning shop to go over your car pre-purchase. find a nice and trustworthy shop/owner and get them to do everything for you. goodluck

Hey guys, Im jst about to purchase a pod filter kit for my r34 gtr, now i was going to go with apexi's kit but i was curious to the other brands such as hks, blitz, trust etc My stock airbox is fine for power with an apexi panel filter but i would like a louder induction growl and i like the asthetics aspect too so im not just after wank factor. I would like some pics of various setups if people have them and perhaps some feedback to their quality etc here is one that i quite like; can anyone identify the brand for me? is this the apexi kit? thankyou in advance, i would much appreciate it. -Johnny

Hey guys, jst noticed that although i go to RMIT in bundoora and im close to mill park, epping, south morang, thomo etc i dont seem to see any skylines around. only in the carpark next to the gym where ppl come to work out but any students? anyone here on campus, particularly bundoora. -Johnny

feel the engine on idle for any shudders, then rev with your fingers on the tb and feel again. if there is, try pulling a coil pack out one at a time to see if there is any change in engine note,shuddering. if you pull onw and there is no chnage then that cylinder is probably not firing properly this happnd to my beema, i ended up finding the bad coilpack n changed them all. and as i drove it, 1st n 2nd gear didnt shudder but at 3rd when the engine was on higher loads, the engine was out of balance and vioently shuddering. might not b the prob but it was for me so jst offering input.

violent shuddering happend to me once when a coilpack went out and the car was running on x amount of cylinders could be coil pack, spark plug or injector etc or mayb something is blocking a particular cylinder in the plenum

ford crappy.......i mean capri

Exactly right I never said 'save me money' and the thing is, the power fc is meant to be mounted in the stock position, in the stock frame. I dont want any stickytape in my car! Now that is baaaaad! dude i feel for you here.

Hey mate, they mentioned the mounting with stickytape and thats it. The pic displayed is how the car was left. The tuner's job was to install the power fc and tune it on the all-wheel-drive dyno so it wasnt just a dyno run. The factory ecu was removed and should have been replaced in the stock position with the stock mounts/frame. A 5minute job was not completed, i was lied to and now they have lost a customer.

Thanks so much for the replies so far guys. and jst so there is no confusion, i am/was a very polite customer. I even payed in cash so they could avoid declaring it (no tax etc) and there is some damage on my front bumper which i noticed only a few days ago; coincidence? dont think so considering my car has never been parked in a lot before and has been in my garage ever since. Business is not about ripping the customer off and performing less than decent work, its about doing the job right and hopefully have a returning customer. I would have spent thousands over the next few months but now i will have to find another tuner/mechanic whom treats me like a friend. :-( -Johnny ps: i checked the brackets and they do in fact fit the power fc, everything lines up.

Hey guys, I need some opinions before i overreact here. Story: Had my power fc installed and tuned on wednesday 2nd july by a reputable tuner. This is how my car was left Now i was told that the standard factory frame which holds the stock ecu would not fit the power fc and i should just go home and use some double sided tape to stick it in position and cover with the black plastic cover. Now is this right or have i been the victim of lies and dodgy workmanship from yet another tuner? Please let me know so i can evaluate the shops business ethics and know whether to be a returning customer. -Johnny

Lolz, im with you with the parking tickets. Yeah was comprehensive. for 3rd party, dont bother with fire n theft cos you'd be paying closer to 1000 then and only covered for like 5000. If its an everyday driver then spend the extra to get comprehensive, probably be about 1500 then and your fully covered. 5 years of driving without a crash or speeding will almost guarantee you insurance with most companies and shouldnt cost you the earth. I was bout 20 when with shannons, dont know if they changed the policies about age? I listed my car as a recreational vehicle/very low kms per year so the premium went down. The excesses are ridiculous but motivates you to drive carefully. On a personal note, i hardly drive my GTR; it stays in the garage and when i do take it out its generally at night or a nice sunny day with little traffic. Dont tailgate anyone, allow for adequate braking distance and dont be a d*ck in the rain and accidents will be almost impossible.

My old 200sx s15 was insured with shannons and that was around 2500 (i was 19-20 at the time) insured for 30k with mods My current r34 gtr is with justcar and is 1500 (now 22) insured for 65k with mods Keep in mind i havent had an accident in 3 years and never had any speeding tickets; all these things will affect your premium and excess etc for mods the best is probably justcar as they cater to the modifier

ohhh, mine has the arc deflector as well, what a cowinkedink. I will try that or mayb get a pod kit! thankyou -Johnny

Im with you ben, still confused as mine did it again yesterday. im going to buy a new ebc and run it on the dyno again to fine tune everything as im too paranoid to give it the beans now. Please keep me updated with yours and ill let u know of mine, goodluck mate.

I really feel for you mate, im sure many of us have been there ourselves. next time just run over him and say you pannicd and pressed the accelerator instead of the brake.

My gtr lost the rear speakers during compliancing so i dont think they have to be in there. the zorst should be alright as well. i hope all goes alright, please keep us updated on how u do

As im a depressed individual already i turn to my draw full of pain medication, amphetamines and sedatives. my front bar took a scrape which i just noticed today, cruising on opiates and benzos now. now i have an excuse to fit a z-tune full kit asap

I dunno ben, bit stumpt now as my car does/did it too. personally, my ebc is tuned for .85bar but makes .97 bar. strange huh? do you have an ebc man? maybe take it to a tuner and get a dyno run to check boost in all gears

thanks wantd n angus, i tend to think alot before i make any decisions regarding the car, im thinkin of picking up a gt-ss kit or 2860 kit and then adding the dumps and fronts. would make more sense on the reliability and labour side. then again, once i finish the body mods (ztune bonnet and kit) and poping it into a few shows im selling it to buy the new r35 gtr. the engines power is fine atm and i never go past 4500rpm anyway, to be honest ive only driven like 600kms since buying the car and it never comes out in the rain. is the car safe at 14psi, well turbos i mean?

dude for some reason my car did that too at the beginning, even with my ebc it seemed to jump around abit. using some logic from science gas laws, specifically that a gases pressure directly relates to the force of the container the gas is stored in. in certain gears the engine is sucking in more gas and hence will lower the measurement of boost, in lower gear with less engine requirement, the whole intake system is pressurized more due to the force exerted back on the gases reading higher boost. the gtr mfd only registers the highest boost recorded before the bov and wastegates can stabilize the pressure

Stamp duty applies to most assets that undergo a change of ownership, its a tax taken by the government to fund our country (in theory) Im not against stamp duty but i think the amounts we pay are ridiculuous, if in fact the stamp duty is higher in WA its probably because less assets are changing hands therefore the premium is higher. a drug dealer will add cutters and fillers to his drugs to build up its mass after a major drug bust hurts his profits. btw: its noones business how much u paid for the car hence just put 'skyline coupe' on the transfer form and say u paid 12,000 for it rather than 49