Lil_Bobby_260

Rajab Racing do some fantastic VL commo's. Do you have any other pics from different angles? Looks neat.

cometh

There is a DIY thread on doing it. Quite easy. Use a stencil. Or do you mean the nissan logo that is moulded into the caliper? Paint the brakes the colour you want the NISSAN lettering. Then pain them the colour you want the calipers. Then lighly sand off the top coat from the lettering. Done! Hit it with some heat proof clear and you are finished.

That is a whole bunch of very true facts.... but get them colour coded quick - they look like a holden adventra. Good to see some out the box thinking! Will be nice when its done. Factory wide body. There are some nice agressive looking front bars if you just google image m35 stagea.

Yeah got the cover for a song haha... the same guy was selling the candy red full set of covers for about $600+ so i figured hmm i can do one shot better. I'll be poking around the engine bay looking for other things to freshen up while ive got paint mix in the gun. I have a braided lines kit to go over the factory piping so i will run all that at the same time too. Just the mesh that runs over your piping. Have done it on other cars - if done properly and you take your time, looks VERY noice. Well thats it then. Candy red, Brakes to match. Should look okay on the black car.

Figured they would be. They will probably end up with a highflow in a year or two. At such stage - bigger injectors, pump and reg? Dump pipes. Whats the story with running a 2nd hand PFC? Being that its been disconnected from the other car - will it be reset? When its hooked up and run on my car, will it re-learn? ie do the 30min at idle etc turning on the aircon then the demister at 10minutes etc? Or will it carry the original cars settings....?

I was actually thinking a deep candy red would look nice. Paint a silver base so that it really stands out. Will be red cam covers, coilpack covers, gear cover, with the polished plenum on one side and inlet pipe polished too. You like everything red haha... was thinking of doing the brembos in the same colour. Just gotta get brembo stencils made to redo the logos.

How about a bonnet which usus the factory steel bracing, but has a carbon fibre skin? (although for the weight difference it would make your better off just taking a shit before you leave)

Id go black, too. Too many colours that contrast looks a bit gumby. Another thing to look at is - are you doing anything with your interior? is there a colour theme going on in there? Match your brakes up to that even. Always better to have something that flows. Have a look for heat proof decals and such that you can put on them is Brembo/nismo so on.

The only paint from a can will be the heat proof undercoat. The rest will be from a gravity fed gun. I used to do paint and panel for PHAT Engines, Northside, so im not expecting the paint side to be too difficult. I dont want the engine bay to look too blingy, as the rest of the car isnt, just tough and tidy. Chrome does look nice - but would be out of place in this instance i think. Cheers for the feedback, D.

Do you have any further details? Are they a workshop or retailer? I'm still looking for a workshop to carry out a service when it gets here. A friend owns an exhaust shop, so that side of things is covered. Mantra is Panel filter, Front pipe, high flow cat, high flow muffler and rear pipe, Larger FMIC, Boost controller, Apexi PFC.

Its a nice thought - and would be a lovely surprise. Can anyone confirm this either way? i dont think Autech would have worried about building the 260RS with an N1 engine...? What is the Autronic you mentioned, Ryan? A different computer again? THe plug and play of the Power FC seems good - self learning etc, plus the amount of tuning you can do yourself with the controller seems good. And yes, the fact that it is common is definitely a plus. Ive sent PM's to a couple of guys selling them so we'll see what happens. Who is running one in their Stagea?

First cosmetic mod to the stagea will be removing the coilpack cover, cam covers and cam gear cover, and painting them. Ideas on colours would be appreciated! something candy. The inlet plenum will be be stripped and polished. The inlet pipe with the 'twin turbo' badge will also be being rubbed back to smooth, then polished. Also going to relocate the fuse box and hide engine bay wiring by extending all the wires with off-the-reel colour coded wiring to make an extended harness etc, and run wires that cant be hidden inside split silicone hose. I have an R34 V-Spec GTR coilpack cover badge to replace the standard nissan twin cam 24valve item. Will be tracking down a Nismo or GReddy Oil cap, just to finish the look. Has anyone had a shot at this themselves? If not, i'll take heaps of pics as i go and do a writeup. This would obviously be similar to RB25DET's and DE engines also. Equipment - Paint stripper for plenum. 320, 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper. Maybe 2000 also. Shitloads of rags and metal polish. Masking tape and 11ty billion newspapers. Plastic sheeting to completely cover everything in the engine bay - can never be too careful when using paint stripper. Heat proof primer (VHT or similar) New Cam Cover gaskets. Sh1tloads of various coloured wire soldering iron and solder loom tube. Will update this post with any tools needed as i use them. Again - has anyone done this? Anything i need to watch out for? tips and tricks? Anything else i should do at the same time?

For the stagea you use the one designed for R32/R33 GTRs. For Series two maybe the one for R34's but i dont believe so. Ive just read through a 70 page writeup from Paulr33 about it and learnt a lot. About 900 should get me one so its not as much as i had though. Still need to run a seperate boost controller with it tho. Im thinking 12PSI day to day, or even just 10, but would like to be able to spin them up to 16psi if im out cruising on a cool night or something. What do they run stock?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ap...R3-t207555.html This is advertised as being for an R32GTR, but they run the same one as the R33.

Have started looking around at PFC's, a friend is running one in his 180SX with great success. I like the in car tunebility that it offers. I had a long read of PaulR33's write-up on it and it seems the goods if you can get one, with Apexi being finished now and all that. Will have to start scanning the forums for one i guess. Paul reckons that with just the apexi panel filter, new exhaust system and larger FMIC, running a boost controller with the PFC will make a fairly decent difference so i'll probably go with that for a while until the turbos start shitting themselves. Shouldnt be too soon only running 12PSI or so. Is it safe enough to run say 16 through them occasionally?

First in! Sounds good. I'll meet at either nedgee or caboolture. Sunday 4th May? EDIT: my car better be here and running by then. In so far - DarrinSpencer Lil Bobby 260 - rob - as luigi Antony Andy D Argh-Ess - Jack Captinsane - Chris Sleepynight - Carter - as donkey kong RB26Stagea - micah. STAGE1 - Phil Demoniak - Chris GreenGhost - Myles 66yostagea - Hugh

What are the factory 260RS wheel dimensions? 17x8?

Definately big kart track haha... and north suits me fine. Im there already. Should have the P-FC and so on in by then.

So jealous right now. We'll have to organise one for six months time. Or earlier. July/August. The Bayside Blue Prime Ed. stands out, same with the kitted silver S2. Any RS260's?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/S2...&hl=cluster PS odometer is stored in the cluster, so if you change it, you wont have an accurate reading. I dont think those will run in an S1, being that they are for an S@ Autech. Different plug type. Have a look in the link (just did a search for 'instrument cluster' and there you go) and you will see the couple of different plug types. I was going to buy a similar cluster for a S2 5 speed. then just went f*ck it ill just buy a bloody autech.

Hopefully i dont have that problem at 12-13 psi. Im sure the injectors and pump will cope, and a retune should make sure the stock computer runs enough fuel in. As said, im not aiming for any specific power rating, just looking to see what i can get with a few basic 'step 1' kind of mods. Its a daily driver so i dont want to get too hectic.

Thanks for the help so far guys. Thanks for the PM's, too, took a bit of reading but i can see the points a lot of you are making. I will probably just get the new front pipe, high flow cat and cat back system, and run 14psi til they dont work anymore i guess, at which stage i will get them highflowed and upgrade to split dumps to match up to the rest of the exhaust. Im looking at Brads E-boost with envious eyes as a do have a bit of cash sitting there (just under $10k) but i really dont want to spend too much on the car being that i still have to pay for shipping and compliace and rego. I have a 600x300x100 FMIC that im pretty sure can be plumbed into the factory piping. I know its unneccesary at this stage, but i have it so may as well i guess. So panel, FMIC, exhaust, and E-boost. Anything else im missing for a basic power gain?

im not sure if 14psi through the stock turbos is a good idea? was looking to run about 12, ive heard it mentioned that 14 is a lil bit rough on them?