Lil_Bobby_260

OR.... Would swap for dolphin front bar or similar etc

Im importing a black Series 2 260RS, (pics soon). Would anyone want the front bar and side skirts? I know there are a couple of black S2's getting around that would look pretty smart with a kit... Im keeping the rear bar and wing (at this stage) but going to buy the Nismo side skirts and hopefully a dolphin or similar front bar. Reason for selling - the front bar just looks to bulky and not quite refined for my liking.... :-( Car is grade 4, so id say the kit will be in fairly tidy condition. Going to start at $1000 for the bar and skirts - cheaper than buying them and having them painted. (if you have a black S2) Robbie

Very nice - so with it already having a cooler, i can use the existing piping to run a larger one - obviously will take more fluid. Another concern is twisting the chassis etc... damage to brakes and diff.... For the amount of towing it will be doing, this shouldnt be an issue? Im mainly worried about the long term effects. Between tows, the car will be a daily driver.

Its not an oil LEAK though - i believe the term with british cars is a 'controlled seepage'. Thats what i was told about my missus' 1953 Rover, anyway. Nice Dayz Aero!

Hi Guys The trailer weighs 800kg, runs its own brakes. The car probably weighs 1000, but i will have it weighed. It is a stripped out race prepped 91 SSS pulsar. Im assuming the 4spd auto would be best suited for towing. The car will be doing probably a dozen meets a year, s well as being towed to workshops etc. Should i run a trans oil cooler and/or a shift kit? The car will also be carrying spares etc for track days. I ave read through a couple of threads - i know there are a couple of you guys on here running stageas as tow cars. Have you come across any issues or things that need to be constantly checked and maintained due to the increased load...??? Thaks guys

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"the death toll is terrible... 15 deaths since 1997".... more people have been killed eating BROCOLLI since 1997. I think that given more places where it is sanctioned, is going to drastically reduce the amount of on-street stupidity. But its great to talk about it and propose ideas, its up to someone or a group to ante up with some adequate fundin and open an area for it. Im sure sponsorship for a venue wouldnt be difficult. Something like what Black Duck is for motorbikes, but for cars. Plus, it would create a lot of employment. You go there, its open from 6.30pm til midnightor 2am or something, pay ur entry. Its like a car show, everynight. Drags, track, burnout. They could sell ex-wrecking yard tyres even. Make a mint off oil and coolant and hose clamps and race tape. S

Wouldnt the (british ford escort) TX3 be classified as potatoes or something? Potato burner...?

PS the clutch you got isnt all that 'heavy' duty... its okay for driving a car with a bit of power, but if you like to give it some stick and chirp through your gears occasionally, and with a bit of strip action thrown in, you need to get something, as above, like a cushioned button. Bit more streetable than a solid button (on or off) clutch that will be more fogiving to the way you might want to drive, without transferring too much stress to other parts of your drivetrain.

its definitely slipping then. Get it checked out by a specialist just to make sure that its engaging and disengaging 100% and that there are no dramas in any linkages etc, but if all else fails then yeah she may just be goorne. Your 33 is no doubta lot heavier than a race prepped SSS, so a lot more stress will be put on it as far as launching a car goes. All clutches like that will wear out - they are designed to. It is the weak point in your drivetrain that stops everything else from getting smashed up. Even a 500hp clutch will wear out, a lot of it depends on how you drive. This is not a dig at you - just cos you put a lot of strain on your clutch and blow it, doesnt make you a bad driver. It not so much a matter of driving good or bad - its driving soft or hard. I have an XF falcon with a 4spd, and i used to go through 500hp clutches like they were nothing, just cos its a heavy car, and i drove it hard. But i know that if my clutch didnt have a bit of give and wear in it, i wouldve being going thru diffs and gearboxes. MUCH more expensive.

that could be you first and second gear - wouldnt clutch do it in all gears...? First and second cop most abuse on strip days. As far as engagement height goes - could be an adjustment issue. Does it pick up and bite well when released, or does it rev out then come back down? Is it slipping?

If you think you know enough about clutches to know that exedy overrate them, why do you need one recommended for you...? Seems like you dont even know what exedy clutch you had anyway....? Also going by your other topics youve posted you like to take it to the drag strip occasionally...? Maybe you just didnt have the right cutch for the job? A clutch designed to ake 250kW will do just that. If you want something you can pop and dump and launch at 5000rpm then maybe you should read the catalogue, and pick one properly, not just go for "heavy duty organic". I run an exedy clutch - bought direct through a family who runs a department at exedy and could buy your or my car with a weeks pay - behind a 10,000rpm SR20 in a purpose built race SSS Pulsar. This see's nothing but abuse EVERY time its driven. Cant fault it.

Would also appreciate this, being that im dealing with a couple as we speak re: my own car. Ive been following this for a while, since first reading about autech axis' dramas, and as such a not getting the M35 i had initially posted up!

Easy to beat - only cheap goon comes in 5 litres. That being said, i have an atmo falcon that eats rice for breakfast. well... you know what i mean.

the commo sports wagon looks like a softened version of a 300c wagon. At the end of the day tho, its still just a commodore wagon. Same as a vl, or a vb, or a vn. Its just the next incarnation, next one in a line. At least with a stagea it shows youve thought outside the box, gone something a lil different. not just bought what you neighbour, and THEIR neighbour has.

As mentioned, i read through a lot of it and its hard to get a solid list from SIX THOUSAND POSTS due to its just a whole lot of different peoples suggestions and parts of their combos. Cant just take a bit from one engine and a bit from another, can i. Plus, its 6000 posts, did i mention that? Im after info from those who have done the conversion, from start to finish. Otherwise it gets a bit jumbled using different bits from different peoples opinions, and things dont match up very well when you do that.

So what would need to be done to build an RB30E block to take an RB25DET Neo head? The car inquestion is a 5spd stagea RB25DET Neo, running perfectly fine, and looking to rebuild it, seeing as how RB30 blocks arent hard to come buy i figure i'l do it properly and start from the bottom up. The idea im hoping for is to drive the car around as is, while building up the 30 bottom end. Then, once its built, basically remove the manifolds from the Neo in the car, pull the engine out sans gearbox, remove the 25 head, mate it to the 30 block, change to a stainless turbo manifold while its out, put it back in and tune it via R33GTsT Power FC. Basically, id like to build it so no modifications need to be done to the head in order to mate them together. Build the bottom end to suit the top. What should be my reccommended shopping lis, from those who have done it? Is this feasible? The stock Neo runs about 190-200kW? Im aiming to end up with about 350+ from this combo, using a larger turbo, injectors, pump, regulator, cams, and any other supporting mods i may need. I have read through a few pages of dyno results from hybrid engines, as well as the 300 page thread that started of about pistons.

So if im running a Neo head (series two stageas run Neos) i should run the RB30ET pistons from ACL, but use say a 1.5mm head gasket to drop the compression? I will be running a max of 15-17 PSI, through a largish turbo. Aiming for 350kw with supporting mods.

New girlfriend is kinda fat, but still has the same size boobs.

spotted a silver S1 with black wheels on Morayfield Rd about 2pm today. 25 WGN plates. Female driver. She was aiight.

So the R35 is a go.... That was fast. Wish the 2004-onwards M35 was in the same boat.

Group hug... Im sure the car will end up on tarmac letting loose with shenanigans (is there an actualy way to spell that...?) soon enough and it will be akin to the second coming of god etc etc lets see a vid of THAT

might have to visit rellies in perth as an excuse to use some of the missus' flybuys and get over there at some stage. there are NO stageas within 50km of here, i never see them, let alone 500hp ones. Or pretty blue ones.

Fair enough jeff! makes sense. Im actually about 2 weeks from buying a black or a silver series two (the model i photoshopped - note the different headlights) and would love to do something different on it like a half body two tone. If you could do a neat white over bayside blue or chrome yellow, both with the silver pinstripe (probably only 7-8mm) thatd be awesome! Not sure what youd go with a black... youd run the black as a bottom colour and maybe go a dark purple like the R33 GTR midnight purple on top...? Slightly lighter purple for the stripe? What other colour could you go on top with black as a bottom? Maybe a light misty orange/silver colour....? With a darker orange in the pin stripe...??

*eyebrows up* I mustve missed some background here. Bit of built up angst. Different horses for courses. Id rather look at johns car, but i'd rather own brads :-)