Piggaz

What's the budget? Most jap systems have the '90 mm piping'... But have their crap 2.5 inch 'muffler' down the back! I'd never buy a jap system again!

Neither. Get a custom job done. Won't be much more and the results will be alot better.

Nah, couldn't stop the prick at Wakefield (braking before the kink and still having issues). They went to Milano (Aggroman).

Well its a carbon copy of Elrodeo666's head which was good enough for 445 kw at 1.4 bar on -5's.

Front passenger Same behind a buddy club QF

Oh well. Take it for a belt at this years nationals if you're coming down.

England I got them from. A bloke on the pommie site had them on special but have since gone back up. Landed they were about $6000 after getting raped by customs! I'll post some pics soon.

If i wasn't so hungover and struggling from the previous nights stupid decisions I might have had a chance of giving you the keys. It also had no PS belt and on semi's... it was such a prick to drive around town!!! Crank looks fine. It's polished up and will be reused. Yeah the belt slipped when the EX cam siezed in the head. The pistons and valves had sexy time because the pistons were not valve relieved and the lift on the cams (10.25 mm) It was an N1 pump. It only had to last a few more months. I was going to change it when the head came (which is next month)

Does on the highway count?

I spose it comes with experience. I don't have it but know people that can have them out and in within 5 hours. Also, get Deano to call or PM me!

Controlling boost pressure. As for turbo swap, give a few places a call. If they tell you they need to take the engine out, hang up... After you tell them they're morons!

Rightio guys. Just a little build thread thanks to my oil pump destroying itself and taking my engine with it. A little bit of history of how things were 6 weeks ago; - GT block - Tomei 2.8 (86.5 mm pistons) - "Ported and polish head" - Tomei Procams (270 @ 10.25mm) - Garrett -5's with a slightly modified turbine housing - Tomei Series 1 dumps - Racepace Motorsport twin 3 inch from dump pipes back - Link G4 ECU - ID 2000 injectors - Nismo 100 mm intercooler - Nismo intake plenum - Standard Airbox - Ross crank trigger That setup on Unigroup Engineering's dyno made 426 RWKW at 24 psi dropping off to 22 psi top end. Dyno graph below: OK, so onto the failure. Oil pump into 9 pieces, lost oil pressure, Exhaust cam welded itself to a few cam caps and pistons and valves got a bit raunchy in the chamber. . The bottom end somehow survived! The engine was together for 7 years and just on 35,000 KMS. Picture of the oil pump: Drive of the pump. All exhaust valves cracked Uh huh Uh huh Engine oil. Now with glitter and sparkles. The valves. The "tapping" that shouldn't have happened Big end bearings. Look good for the damage done! OK. Enough of the destruction. Now the fix. I decided to keep the 2.8 as much I wanted to go 3.0, I couldn't justify moving away from the 2.8 when it was all good. Over the last 14 months I have been building a head at HKS Japan (Thanks Marcus for all those 2 hour talks and organising this for me). The guy that has built this head also ported the HKS drag R33 GTR back in the day.The spec of this head is; - "port and polish" for engines up to 900 HP - JUN Ti retainers - 1.5 mm oversize valves - HKS step 2 valve springs - JUN 264 @ 10.5 mm cams. I was originally going to go with the Mines 252 @ 10.05 mm BUT I may run V-cam at a later stage. They recommend a 264 degree cam for 2530's/-5's, so the choice was made. - The head also copped the full treatment from NAPREC. This consists of taking one of the squish pads out, reshaping the combustion chamber and decking the head 1.0 mm. (thats the short version of it) I also had a set of standard manifolds ported to the head and sent a manifold to turbo gasket to Japan to get matched up. The other side a 'balance tube' was sourced (the bit between the throttles and the head) and matched that to the head also. A few cheeky photo's of the head; Pistons got ordered this arvo which are 87 mm Tomei pistons which will be valve recessed to suit the 1.5 mm OS valves. As soon as that is done they will be flown over so I can assemble the bottom end, then wait for this head to rock up. - A racepace 9 Litre sump has been organised to be drained by a Tomei oil pump. - My gearbox got a quick strip down, inspect and reassemble as we found 2 'locator pads' on the magnet. - A Quaife front diff has been bought and is going in the sump/diff when I get it. - Alcon 6 pot 365mm front/4 pot 350 mm brakes are on the car. I'll take some pics tomorrow and throw them up. I was very surprised with the clutch and how it came out. Anyone that has seen me drive it knows the launches this thing gets. I have done 250 launches atleast since I have owned it and i'm just going to put it back in the car. Love those coppermix Nismo's .

How much power do you want? Either Garrett -9's or -5's. Either will be a tad over $2,000.

The race fuel result will be interesting. No E85?

Pricedrop! $350 for each item.

From memory Steveo, you were low to mid 60's on RS's. Stretching my memory a little now.

Well my AFR's are not excessively rich. Mid 11's (petrol figures for ease of comparison). I don't know?

It happens from time to time

Ian, you bring up a good point there. My surge tank is underneath the car so maybe that airflow over the whole setup brings the temps down enough? I should measure the temp of the fuel after a session at a trackday. Dont forget at idle speeds (and light loads) with the pumps not being switched they would be moving alot of fuel in and out of the engine bay, heating up a little every 'round trip'.

I spose it depends on how your tuner tunes. I get tuned by the same guy as Steveo, running ID 2000's and i'm sitting at 71% DC to make 430 RWKW. Too rich? Possibly? Do we care? Not in the slightest. Bumping up the pressure might be a way around this, but then you stress the pumps more.

Interesting. I've driven my car from Sydney to Shepparton with the 2 044's going flat out the whole time and no issues. I have a Fuel pressure gauge on my steering column and that was solid as a rock.

The trust 600x300x150 mm should be good. It's painted silver and has straight fins from factory.

It was only a matter of time before a comment like that was said!

If not for the driving.... for the drinking

Whats the reason for not using an adaptor plate? Sounds like an awful lot of effort for something that would worth with a plate?