Piggaz

It definitely changes the car from the tall geared OS 5 speed that I had in it. "Woke it up" as such.You don't need to run the OS clutches, but it takes out one less headache when putting it all together. I looked into trying to salvage the coppermix as they really are THE clutch to have in a road going GTR. (Mine was in there since 2005 with no service/rebuild at all). It was all too hard. For starters the coppermix was a pull type, this box only has the bosses for a push type, then there was the bigger input shaft issue. The R3C is awesome, much better than expected and NOT how I remember the R3C in other cars I've driven. The pickup/friction point is quite low compared to the Coppermix which takes a bit of time to get used to. Apparently this is the new type. What they have changed, I'm not sure. You will need to supply your own transfer case. There are 4 gear options available. I went option 2. Assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and spinning to 8000 rpm each gear will go to 82 118 160 200 234 (same as stock as its 1:1) 310 (same as a factory 5 speed as its 0.757) You're basically slotting an extra gear in before the 4th gear in a factory 5 speed box. If that makes sense. With the box, I bought; Box itself Modified cross member Bent shifter Clutch Release bearing Clutch aligning tool There is a bit of crashing and banging at low rpm, but that's just me not getting the timing 100%. I've only driven 60 kms or so with it so still very much a noob. Up high and drive it like its stolen, smooth as silk. Just slides into the next gear, you don't feel anything through the shifter. As quickly as you can pull back on the gear stick its in. I've found preloading the stick before you lift seems to work well too. I'm still clutching in ATM but as time goes on I'm sure I'll be able to do the no clutch/ lift throttle technique. I'm obviously not tuning a strain gauge - yet. I wouldn't like to daily drive it but for a weekend car it's great!

OS 88.

http://vid1068.photobucket.com/albums/u457/Ptriffitt/F690A0AE-CCD6-4CEF-A3DD-3D47EE493AFF_zps0mlky3ck.mp4 For shits and giggles I took a video of the warm idle just before the compression test. On E85 you would hardly know it has cams in it. http://vid1068.photobucket.com/albums/u457/Ptriffitt/D2CDE898-D824-4475-8145-56E87DFD29A6_zpsu2e9b2mn.mp4 A bit of box action. 415 KW, 19 PSI, super relaxed tune.

Nismo is practically silent but not the cheapest Walbro 460 is almost silent also but not exactly "straight drop in" (can be done though)

Sounds like a dying pigeon trying to give birth.

Pm me your number. I found it on my laptop but can't upload it for whatever reason. I'll SMS it

PM Blitz. He did it.

She would proberbly love that.

Onion ring, possibly a burger ring.

Wouldn't have a clue. The only person I know that has fitted one is Andrew Hawkins in JET 200. Looks like a neat unit.

Sold.

why change the clutch when a simple front plate swap will do the same job?

The same could be said for staying standard capacity too. To get the best result of any size engine requires a combination of parts that will work for the desired outcome. That means $$ unfortunately. At the end of the day, the bottom end is just an air pump.

It's a Samsonas 6 speed sequential.

Price drop. $1,600.

That setup is mint, Matty. As I said on the phone today, i've bought one of those Holley dominator 1800 pumps. By all accounts it should satisfy everything that gets thrown at it. Bit of an update. I finally got the car home. Huge issues with injector baskets filling up with this super fine silt. Its small enough to get through the 23 micron filters I have post pumps. The baskets have been cleaned about 6 times, fuel filters twice. The intank pump was flogged so a Walbro 460 went in as a lift pump. Definitely a whole fuel system clean out is in order. I have a few large 6 micron fuel filters coming also. The modified transfer case has settled the car down alot too. With the GT Pro in the rear set to medium, it was very taily. It feels much more planted, can get on the loud pedal earlier. Win win! The tune has been relaxed also. Boost controller is turned off, 3 degrees of timing taken out and 6-7% more fuel across the entire map just to make it super safe with this fuel problem. It still went onto make 415rwkw. Did a comp test and its 190 psi across all 6 pots. The box is great. Definately "woke" it up. The clutch is better than expected also. What the intank sock looked like. Bit of box porn.

For a bloke that has never driven a stroker, you know a lot about the advantages of them, how they drive, blah blah. Farken 2.6L junk. Bin it. It has nothing to do with peak power. How can having more low to mid range twist be considered a bad thing?

Having been in a v cam 2.6, it would be about equal from 3500 ish compared to a 2.8. From the basement you can't hide cubes/stroke. * very rough figures though. There will be a comparison between the 2.6/v cam vs 2.8 using exactly the same turbo soon enough.

Are you looking to adjust fuel pressure?

A FULL effort head is not cheap by any means, much more than what the difference is between a 2.6 and 2.8.

Anfanee. What's wrong with the Tomei kit? It's been in my car for a decade. Price up a nitto, BC, HKS. Choose whatever! You could go and get the Tomei 2.6 full counter crank for $9k a unit?

I've said it before.

Have a look at what I wrote. I wasn't going to sit there all night finding the cheapest price around. It all comes down to what product you use. Some may want Argo rods, another guy might use HKS. I'm not going to sit there and price up 20 different combo's. What I was trying to say was at the end of the day it's not $7000 worth of difference, even if it was, I still wouldn't use a stock throw crank. For what it's worth, a 2.8 is still too small.

1 - Tomei stroker = $5,200 on nengun ATM. That includes crank, rods, rod bolts, rings and pistons. 2 - Machining and assembly, lets call that $3,000 3 - Head gasket = $300 4 - Water pump and oil pump = $1700 for both 5 - Head and cams. That could range from a service to a full blown $10,000 effort. For the sake of it lets go with $2,500. 6 - New timing belt = $150 7 - Bearings = $300 The rest of the stuff like sump baffles, turbo's doesnt really matter. Items 2-7 you need regardless of what size engine you go with. Now, Just say you have turned a bearing in your 26, crank is toast. New crank (looked up a price on Ebay) = $1724 Pistons. Choose your poison. Lets go with CP = $1155 Rods. Say a manley H beam = $1280 Total $4159 for the rotating assembly. As opposed to $5,200 for a tomei stroker. $13150 for a stroker $12,109 for a 2.6 assuming new crank needed with the same above mentioned parts. I havent inlcuded shipping in any of this. Either way you'd be paying it regardless. These are VERY rough figures. I'm not going to sit here all night looking for the cheapest part or your brothers cousin can do a special price. By the time you factor in injectors, clutch, fuel pumps, ECU, tune cost, exhaust, dumps, turbo's, intercooler, wheels, brakes, tyres and alllll te rest of the gear you need to "complete" a car, the difference is insignificant.

Ring GCG. $300 a housing or so I think.