mystery_kid

This should hopefully be a lesson to everyone not to bother with degreasing engine baysand wanky shit like I'd rather have a dirty engine bay than wet all of the electrics and potentially do actual damage

Oh right just as i suspected Not a real problem

can someone take a picture of what we're actually talking about here ?

Get rid of it, never heard anything good about them

Width and offsets would be good

what fuel pump are you running? i had it happening when i tried to put a bosch 040 in my r34 and it was sucking up shit in the tank and blocking the mesh over, would take about 10 - 15 minutes to kick in my tank looks clean as well and most of the time when i'd pull the pump out the shit wouldn't stay stuck on the mesh it would just fall off, though sometimes i'd get a little bit caked on the mesh to come out with it though if you haven't had the issue before i can't see it just started to happen unless you got a bad tank of fuel recently i ended up changing my fuel pump to a walbro and it has been fine since, just had to check my fuel filter often

i'd probably stay more around 34/35 personally

i suspect this thread was posted because old mate doesn't have his fully sick camber adjustability at the top of the strut like his silvia mates

this whole thread is about this person justifying to themself and aother about using rota wheels, that is it people that buy good brand wheels don't need to make threads like this, they bought work/volk/whatever and are already a boss

yeah guard doesn't look very rolled to me at all judging by where that scubbing mark is on whatever corner that under guard pic was taken you'd have no problem if they were rolled properly also looks like you could do with dialing in some negative camber

r32 headlights are terribad

$130...

Thanks for the sales pitch mr rota salesman Or is this your way of justifying to yourself for buying cheap knock offs?

f**k selling it imo, you won't be in the mines forever Surely you know someone who can store it for you

and the fact it isn't being cooled properly probably helped wreck those seals

you can roll the dice on cheaper yellow jackets, could last you years - might not or spend some extra on splitfires i've had my yellow jackets for about a year, no problems so far making 200rwkw

how is anyone going to be able to prove kilometers unless they bought the car brand new themselves in japan?

not running water lines to the turbo... not sure if serious

yeh i saw 81ack yesterday too

throw another bit of that wood you have there on top of the stands and turn the stands 90 degrees, the wood will crush a bit but it should hold together so you can use them again that's how i do it

yeah check the 'nice' brand catalogue they make all kinds of bolts etc including wheel studs for all kinds of cars, including long and standard size the long ones are really long though like 100mm long so you'll need to cut them down to suit, make sure you fix the thread up properly of the ends with a thread die and really clean them up after you cut them otherwise they will incorrectly thread your wheel nuts at some point and end up causing you more hassle than it's worth lol speaking from experience here

lol might want to re-think posting your address straight up on to the internet

i could be wrong but i wasn't aware they were sold in bayside blue? you could be waiting a long time if you're not willing to buy one and get in painted yourself

yeah johnilicte the last wheel alignment i had done there is a measurement on the sheet that measures exactly that and there isn't a major difference the movement is left to right so it's probably the rack end, sort of surprising as they aren't that old but at the same time not that surprised as the old front tyres on it managed to destroy a ball joint on a castor arm in about a month due to the vibration i was getting (old worn federal rsr's)

jack that side up and grab the wheel and try move it, you're checking to see if there is any movement there at all in any direction. it shouldn't move at all in any direction apart from if you really force it to turn both sides through the steering if you have some movement there then it's something like a wheel bearing or the ball joint or the tie rod end that is shagged