mystery_kid

dredging up an old thread but i would also like t o know the answer to this, i thought it was the blue on behind the kick panel on the drivers side but i would just like someone to confirm this Thx

just to confirm something, the original fuel pump relay is the blue one behind the kick panel on the drivers side yeah?

yeah i'm starting to think something bigger is the problem here from the start i checked all the fuses just before, they're ok

got pump in and working with a seperate wire setup car has no spark now, really f**king over it

i'm checking the plug into the top of the fuel tank where the feed hoses are

is that the box on the wall behind the back seat? i haven't tried the ecu error code check thing, i'm not even sure what i'd have to do

i've read a couple of topics on here with the same problem but there doesn't ever seem to be a result posted r34 gtt pump seemingly died so i got a bosch 040 and put it in and it doesn't work so i've pulled it out and got a multimeter and there is no power to the fuel pump wiring at all, the fuel pump fuse is fine and i have changed the relay over with another and still the same. i have also removed the battery connections for a good while to see if that sorted it, nothing any help would be appreciated

relay definitely isn't the issue i just changed it with another one there is 12v getting to the relay through the white and red striped wire when i have the key turned to on

i've read a couple of topics on here with the same problem but there doesn't ever seem to be a rsult posted r34 gtt pump seemingly died so i got bosch 040 and put it in and it doesn't work so i've pulled it out and got a multimeter and there is no power to the fuel pump wiring at all, the fuel pump fuse is fine and the relay seems to be ok, still clicks any help would be appreciated

most of those tyres in that thread arent street legal.... your best bet is probably khumo ku36 or federal RSR federals can be noisy but when venturing into semi slick territory that is what you get, when you are on the track tyres noise doesnt matter

you didn't actually part out an entire 370Z ? you took the aftermarket parts off and returned it to stock i am assuming

depends if you get the bcpr6es-11 or just the bcpr6es the -11 are gapped to 1.1mm from standard which is what i use i used motul 8100 xcess 5w40

the only positive of owning an r33 (doesnt happen on my r34)

yeah the idea seemed retarded in my head, but i just saw someone mention it in passing over threads here and it planted the seed in my head thanks

so i am looking at getting one of these: http://www.240sxmotoring.com/groilcoadw.html and an ebay oil cooler kit the thing i want to double check and this is probably a retarded question but i am asking it because i remember vaguely reading this somewhere on here: when the thermostat is closed on that, the oil doesn't skip the oil filter does it? it doesn't seem possible as the oil should initially come straight through the center large hole and into the filter and then from there gets sent back into the engine or through the cooler depending on the temperature. it seems straight forward but i am just being paranoid thx

i always put the full 5 litres in now, it always shit me wasting the tiny bit at the end over filling slightly wont cause you any problems i dont really see how over filling could cause any problem at all?

thanks for input everyone, prob just go with 24 and 22mm daleo pm'd

perhaps you should have spent the money on alarm and immobiliser rather than some crappy autogauge gauges ?

yeah that is pretty much where i was heading too, wasnt sure if 27mm front/24mm rear might have been the go the front on the r34 isnt the same as the r32, it doesnt just use your standard individual link bushes. the front uses 1 linkage item, the rear uses the normal link bushes that you can replace the only option on the whiteline site is to get an upgraded front link with ball joints the rear has the option of the above, or just your normal link bushes

hey i'm going to be getting some swaybars for my r34 soon, just wondering which sizes i should look at. The car is primarily street use, but i will be doint a few track days a year. It currently has tien super streets (came with the car, not sure if i am going to keep them) but they aren't too stiff which i guess what you want for track racing. i have put in rose jointed upper and traction arms in the rear and rose jointed upper arms and new bushed adjustable castor arms in the front so i'm whiteline after sway bars, not quite sure what size to be heading for 27mm, 24mm etc also just to confirm something for me, when you buy new whiteline front sway bars for r34 do they come with some kind of replacement links as they don't just use link bushes like the rear thanks

One of the joints was completely worn and had a heap of movement, but I suspect it was due to other issues with tyes and stuff as well But they are very hectic for road use

I'm running about 0.8 degree of camber and it scrubs, you would bee like 2 degrees to fix it Get the guards rolled, it is easy to do or get done and ou can't tell it has been done

you dont sound like the type of person who should be working on their own car

i have 18x9.5 +38 on the rear of my r34 with 265/35/18 tyres and yes they scrub and i have a tad less than 1 degree camber on the rear your choices are: -go a smaller tyres size -dial in more camber -roll the lip of the guards im yet to get my rolled so i have lifted the rear a tad so it doesnt scrub much, but ultimately i am going to get the guards rolled

0.5 - 1 degree is still desirable on a street car regardless your tyre sizes are also important to know for this kind of thing as well