Roy

Well its not a show car, and i dont drive around the streets with my music booming. Car is a 3dr hatch and sort of semi collectable so not looking to cut up door trims etc as they are all in immac 1987 condition What I have pieced together so far is: Deck: Pioneer DEH-8350SD http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/22/121/61/DEH-8350SD/index.html Amps: Either a good quality 5 channel L5.1110 - http://www.soundstream.com/los/lil-wonder_amp.htm Or a 4 channel Sony Explode GTX6040 for speakers http://www.sony.com.au/product/xm-gtx6040 : and Soundstream STL2.350 2 channel bridged for subs Speakers: Front - In the front plastic dash it takes 4" speakers. I can remove the original lower sill kick panel and put in a custom pod to take 6.5" splits. I am thinking about putting speakers in the dash and lower kick panel, but dash will probably be of no value and better putting the money into a better quality split. Rear - 6x9s in a new custom parcel shelf as I dont want to cut up the original one. I also doubt the original hatch would be suitable for big heavy speakers in them. Subs - I am guessing a single 12" in a good box that will go behind the split fold hatch seats. I have not decided on brands of speakers and frankly dont care about brands of speakers. The only thing I am picky on is the deck and happy with the Pioneer deck I have found Last time I played with stereos was 10 years ago and have not had kept pace of things. I used to run Polk 6x9s and splits, Kicker subs and Rockford amps. Not sure I want to go to that expense again and it seems that single 12s give pretty good sound these days. So rather then two cheaper 12" subs I suspect I would get better sound and still work out cheaper to get a better quality single 12" with plenty of nice clean power. Seems Sony and MB Quartz have reasonable priced splits at around $150 and a pair of 6x9s for the same price. Subs have me stumped, so much has changed in sub technology the past ten years So budget isnt huge, but neither are my needs. Its a rattly old 80s car so need a stereo to hush up the rattles

What ECU?

Was looking at JB and also Ebay...but are there any good car audio places around that are well priced? I need a deck, speakers and amps...a bit of expertise making the front speaker enclosure in the lower footwell/kickpanel wouldn't go astray

I worked in India for a little over 2 years and in that time never found a drag strip. They do have some ordinary little tracks, and the new F1 circuit is meant to include a drag strip, driver training area etc. They do love their motorsport and drag cars though. I was in Hyderabad and they used to go to the old airport and run their exotic cars and bikes down the runway there. Lambos and R8 Audis were more the norm then 10000hp Skylines though

Sorry, I meant to say by the time you throw an RB25 box at the S14 the S14 will be 30kgs heavier, equalising a little of the weight disadvantage the R33 has. I doubt a sensibly lightened R33 GTS25t could get to below 1200kgs. I think 1250kgs is probably more like it. I mean, its was one of the few GTSt that have all boxes ticked. Too many have engines, and thats it. He had the brakes, suspension, engine, gearbox, cooling aspects all addressed. The RB26 was nothing exotic, PPG gearbox almost a std in that category. And the rear ends are not brilliant, but they are easily up to the job if set up properly. Over an 6-12 lap race is a different story though as you may work the rear tyre a little too hard with the weight, power and geometry

Ooh, R32 catch can. Dont think I can ever part with my Powerade bottle

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/385051-pro-fabrications-fabrication/page__st__60 If you want one then get in touch with Brad and I will bring it back from Sydney with me in a few weeks time. Or just get him to ship you one

Interesting. There are so many variables...I am only basing my opinion on what I have seen from the Trust TD06 range of IG turbos. I have seen probably 4-5 people post graphs from results with IG Trust TD06-20G turbos or when the cars have been for sale. The IG turbos have always been laggier then the four setups I am familiar with that run STD RB20s with Trust external gate setups (my setup, Wheezy, Tim and Kris) and they always seem to be down >20rwkws. Like I said many variables but the theme is they dont seem to be tuned to make more then 240rwkws and the external setups seem to be making 260-275rwks. So its either the tuners are mega conservative on all the IG setups or there is something different in their performance

East Coast? You must be kidding. No money over here. Only people on the West Coast are earning enough coin to race I dont think there is anything an S13/14/15 can do that an R33 GTS25T couldnt do as well or better..but would need to consider the class of racign and mods allowed. Sure weight could always be a factor...but youu have 500cc, and bigger tyres...and by the time you throw a box in the S chassis the weights equalise by about 30kgs Fact is S platforms have more success than GTSts because if you are going to play with an RB then you go GTR, not rwd. The LF Performance R32 was a good example that if you do the basics to a car then you can get good results. You may be able to comment on the cars merits/disadvantages better then the rest of us as I am guessing you raced against it

The the ICE Performance Supra was pretty well known car down here in Victoria for a while until Nigel and his business partner decided to move on. The car ran 10s, made good power on pump and did track days with 400odd rwkws where it was quick in the day. Was very fast considering the poor man used semi slicks he always used to run!!! On funny fuel made some bigger numbers out of the same engine at Auto Salon. If Ash (R31Nismoid) reads this he may remember but I think it made somewhere early in the 600rwkws at Auto Salon one year but may have run NOS on the dyno. Was in HPI and a few other magazines years ago

A friend used to have an R32 that ran a Trust 2.7L bottom end, OS Giken Sequential 6 speed with twin T67-25G 8cms. I think it made 610rwkws on a 100-104 style fuel like Sunoco. So suspect you will walk in 500rwkws. He used to run twin TD06-20Gs but wanted more so i grabbed one of the two TD06-20G 10cms that he removed when he upgraded... and still run that same turbo in my car oday. Depending on what fuel you are running I think 20Gs may be the better option. ICE Performance's Nige ran twin TD06-20Gs oin his Supra and it made mega power. Maybe do a search for DAMN Supra http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67205808-574rwkw-DAMN-Supra-FS!

Its still poo...though if you have access to machining centre you could mill it out

Not taking the mickey or taking shots. But I think the answer to that question is quite clear. He feels the HG turbos are the clear choice for your desired power and bolt on requirements. Seems pretty open and shut given that the Kando internal gate turebos have a very poor internal wastegate design. Have a look at this pic... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-TE06H-TD06SH-TD06H-T3-8cm-Internal-Gate-/270877815362?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f11937242#ht_2092wt_1139 See inside where the dump pipe bolts to, inside you see an opening? Thats where the wastegate gases have to vent into when the IG opens. So the air has to immediately turn 90 degrees, travel 1 inch then turn another 90deg and merge with all the gases coming out of the turbine and into your dump pipe. This causes lots of back pressure and poor flow which ultimately effects how well burnt gases exit the combustion chamber and how well they make power. Now look at this arrangment, which is more typical of IG housings http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbine-Housing-TRUSTs-T518Z-TD05H-TD05H-18G-SR20DET-8cm-/280790572009?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41606c1be9#ht_1895wt_1270 When the IG flap opens the air is free to run into the dump pipe, be it split type or bellmouth type. The flow is travelling parallel with the turbine gases and generally offers very good performance. That is the general thinking of why people are sayign avoid the IG Kando turbos as without even looking at dyno sheets etc you can see how compromised they are in the housings

Who is Damon Hill? Never heard of him

Are the AROCA days noise limited or are they race days?

Does anyone have some R32 GTR rear shocks laying around. They dont have to be anything fancy, I just need something (even if tey are leaking oil and blown) that will allow me to get a car of the hoist and moved around

Thanks people. Think I have it sorted and thanks Steve. Will be in touch if it all goes to SHIT

Edit... Here is a pic of the following wheels side by side: VF40, EVO 16G (Big 16G), 18G, and then the 20G!

Are the Tein shocks for sale? What type are they? Pics?

Really, there is only Simons T67-25G result. Everything else is still a work in progress with either boost control problems, tune problems etc. And then there is the E85 aspect.

Has anyone been able to get a UVP for an uncomplied, or never previously registered import ? I am getting my balls busted by RTA who are telling me I need to drive the car to a vehicle inspection place for apink slip, then they will give me a Unregistered Vehicle permit? Seems to defeat the point of the permit. If you have your roadworthy why not just pay the rego? So at a loss as to how I get an import from NSW to Vic? Seems towing is the only option?

Not having a shot. But if you dont KNOW for certain then please phrase a post so its a question. 16G, 18G, 20G are NOT rear housing sizes. They are the compressor the turbo runs. The rear housing sizes are designated in Mistu talk at 6cm, 8cm , 10cm, 12cm 16cm etc etc. The take away is that the smaller the compressor wheel the less inertia so you are a good chance that it will spin quicker given the two turbos have the same turbine and housings. But then there is the weight, number of blades that all play a part. Now I THINK ( ) the 16G would be noticable to an 18G and 20G in spool. People seem to refer to a 16G and a BIG 16G, with the Big 16G being what Trust call the 18G. (? if someone can confirm this great ) There is not a lot of dimensional differences between the 18G and 20G and are basically just a different trim. I think the fact that the 18G is normally teamed with the smaller TD05H turbine and 8cm housing is the reason why it would generally be seen as the faster spooling turbo, albeit making less power as the compromise. Wheel Sizes (Inducer/Exducer) 16G - 46.5mm / 57mm 18G - 50.5mm / 68mm 20G - 52.6mm / 68mm So in an overly simplistic view the 16G would physically be a lot smaller and spin easier. The 18G and 20G are basically just a trim difference 16G

Can you comment on the size of the 6psd gearbox vs an R33. I am curious to know whether firstly they will fit in an R32 tunnel and whether the gearstick is in the right spot for an R32

Interested to see how you go with the TD05-18G. I finally scored an 8cm Trust TD05 housing so will grab a Kando TD05 core with 3" Compressor cover. Will throw it on my external gate / 6boost setup whilst my TD06-20G is being rebuilt. Will be interested to see how the setups measure up. I need to order either of these by the end of the week. Thoughts? Going on an internally std RB20 with 6boost, Turbsomart 45mm gate, Plazmaman plenum and an 8cm housing. Anti-Surge Cover Or 3" Cover The anti-surge compressor turbo has a slightly different turbine. 11 blade Inconel Wheel The plain 3" cover is dimensionally similar but 12 blade. I think I will go the 12 blade plain comp cover unless some turbo guru tells me otherwise. Is the 11 blade wheel the TD05 version of the L2 TD06 wheel?

Not "challenging" your statement Ash. I suppose you are looking at the engineering merits of the car which is fair enough. I am looking at it from the TIGHT ASS mug punter and sprint days perspective The S14/15 folk still complain about gearboxes. Don't understand it myself as I have a 208,000km old RB20 box serving me ok so not sure just how weak they are. The brakes on S14/15s are underdone and whilst not much bigger R33s seem to hang onto them ok if weight is taken out of the car. And an R33 with FMIC, power FC, exhaust and filter with some aftermarket suspension can be had for 8k. So you get a rigid body, good rear and front end susp geometry. Tuff gearbox. And a motor that is pretty easy to lean on with a bigger turbo and 400rwhp if you want to throw an oil cooler and bigger radiator at it for track work. Much cheaper then even an S14 so I think as a budget club car that is only really racing yourself and a clock then they are about the best buy you can make.