Roy

Goddammit!

But can you think of a better platform to build up. You can get them down to around 1250kgs and power to around 320rwhp with no trouble at all. At that point std brakes, radiator, gearbox, diff eytc are all perfectly fine. And they take big tyres to boot. Cant think of a better platform that can be had for a song

How easy toget a AASA log book?

Yeh, sold to you. But I travel a hell of a lot with work. Its sitting in all its packaging on my b'room shelf for you.

What rpm are you shifting? Seems to be a few points where you could possibly hold a gear rather them shifting. Looks lie fun to steer and bloody quick

Does the airbox have the snorkel?

Really? It was for sale a few years ago (~2005) for about 60k. I hear the current owner has restored it and wants faar more now The original history of the car as I understand it from the 2005 add was that it was the same trim/model that was raced at Le Mans. But this particular car never raced at Le Mans. It was specially built for the Aus category and had some bits that were not so production S4S. I remember back in the day, Porsche had the CS model, Mazda the SP so Lotus had some bastardised S4S/GT300 parts Its a cool thing but its not like the GT1 Esprit that was able to race against the McLaren F1 and beat it in the 90s

Where did you read about the GT2 Lotus? If its the Lotus I think it is its nothing to be worried about. Its the car that Brad Jones and Larry Perkins ran in the 12hr at Bathurst and in the Production Class. Quick and capable car...but no doubt still in line with its class rules in order to maintain its history.

The cams are gone. I want $1000 for the RB26 bottom end, mainly due to the fact it has oil pump, water pump, sump etc and near new N1 pistons etc . If someone wants my RB20 256 Poncams I still have those. $800. They were usd for dyno purposes only. Engine is in Moorabbin

They have been trying to flog that Falken GTR for years. It never won anything, and whilst cool is a lot of money for a car with no history, or special parts.

Thats right. Its not just software. You need advanced knowledge of fluid mechanics and turbine design to validate any model. And then you need to be a boffin in a cardigan to understand the fluids to the point that people are chasing effeciency. I did a CFD elective years ago at Unni. Hated it. FEA was much better and made more sense to me Bring on F1 turbos and some rapid developments in the tur ine and compressor design, materials and manufacture

If you can hide things then great. I must be lucky as my engine bay has looked like those pics since 2003 and never booked. So if your car externally is nothing flashy and your exhaust is quiet then there is surely a good chance you will never be asked to pop the bonnet

Yeh, I am getting a HTA wheel on my TD06. Slightly bigger wheel but as you say the hub section is a lot narrower on the machined jobbie so more space for blades, hence the large increase in flow for little change in overall physical dimensions. Will know by end of Jan how it actually works in the field

Yeh the Greddy manifold is a 6 into 2, 2 into 1 type manifold with a nice collector. The 6boost manifold is pretty much equal length into a slightly longer collector. This is the greddy manifold... No need to see pics of the 6boost manifold, there are plenty around the net. The 6boost manifold many prove more durable, time will tell. But the above manifold is now being used on another setup by Kris with the L2 I pictured a few pages earlier. It did need a light repair on two occasions but nothing even my humble welding skills couldnt fix. Nothing wrong at all with the 6boost manifold. They appear to be well built and plenty of people ave got years of great service out of them. I suppose the point is if you have a china manifold that is serving you well, a HKS or Trust manifold working well...then I am not sure there is any point wearing the 2K cost of replacing it with a 6boost manifold as I doubt you will get any performance increase

This is the 10cm housing with the original Trust manifold I was running at the time. Yeh all Trust kit with off triangular flanges, uses to run the total Greddy kit, these days its a bastard kit with Turbosmart gate and 6boost manifold You are right, now that i am running a 6boost manifold the turbo sits a lot further forward and required moving the PS reservoir. Does give you a little more room for the dump pipe. For what its worth, the 6Boost manifold resulted in a loss of a smidgen of power and hurt response a little. This could be the result of there being about 18 months between dyno runs and the car had lost a bit of performance in that time. I also changed from the Greddy Type R wastegate to a Turbosmart gate. Cant see either really contributing to a loss in performance. Considering the new setup has nicer piping and improved exhaust system...i think its safe to say 6Boost is no better then a Greddy manifold. Possibly worse. If all the handfeeding over 6boost manifolds were true I should have picked up some response and perhaps made a tad of power, especially given the exhaust improvements. If I was starting from a clean sheet of paper I would go a Greddy manifold over 6boost now having tried both.

Racing? What style of racing? If its multi lap stuff then I would say go NA cubes anyday of the week. If its just fling aroudn track stuff then I say you are better sticking with what you have as the new setup is most likely going to cost an extra 10K on top of what you already have and the car would be probably quicker with that 10k spent on other things rather then engine

People car do things for all different costs, some cheaper some end up paying more. I dare say since these setups work so well you would be best to spend the few extra dollars and making the setup 100%. Using some high temp sheathing on lines, good quality bends and reducers/flanges studs etc so you dont blow out gaskets etc or warp with temp. A gate for $300? I paid about $500 for my Turbosmart. I paid more then $150 in just flanges, studs, gaskets and elbows + reducer. So not saying anyone was wrong but we all often pay different prices for things and I know i couldnt do my setup with external gate that cheaply

Fark it...i am selling all my mitsu fluff and going KKK K27s etc. Info on them is even more confusing

So Kando call the T67 turbine TD06SL2, when Greddy call it TD06L2. Greddy seem to drop the S from all the descriptions where as Kando use it. Here is the compressor cover of my old turbo

25G is the compressor. TD "whatever" refers to the turbine My TD06-20G is coming off in Jan so will take photos of it next to the T67-25G and the TD06-25G i have. You will see the turbine of the T67-25G is very similar to my TD06-20G and way smaller then the TD06-25G I dont have any pics that show the turbines, but this is them T67-25G And the tag on my 25G reads "TD06H-25G" Pics in Post 1488 are of this turbine - right hand side So i am guessing my current turbo is a TD06S turbine, but I have never measured it up. It came off a twin GTR setup. I know it takes the same exhaust housing as a T67, but not my TD06H-25G

The T67 has a TD06-20G turbine. The TD06-25G has a much bigger turbine as per my post above. The T67 makes less power but is more responsive then the TD06-25G (on paper) Would be interesting to see someone back to back them today. Back in 2006ish the talk was the TD06-25G was the better bet on a built motor where you wanted to run 22-24psi . Who knows if that holds true today But the hot side of the TD06-25G is a lot more different to the hot side of the T67-25G compared to what people say about the L2 TD06-20G and the non L2 TD0620G

Those that have been around for a while there is BU5TERs old setup. This was with baby cams, TD06-25G, greddy plenum and jap re-written ECU. Its the setup that a few friends have copied. With a Power FC and another dyno it was making 345rwkws...then he popped it leaning on it with funny fuel and went to a crazt RB30 setup with T51.

Took today off work and doing a pre xmas clean. Forgot these are still here and would love them to go to a good home. Will take $1200 for the pistons

LOL, you say its just a number...but it is amazing how happy or pissed off the number can make you. Just like times HUGE difference between 13.05 and 12.95 I get confused, and sometimes confuse others with the hot side talk, is it an L, L2, SH, H, S etc etc? If you read my turbo tag it says TD06-20G. What that makes it I dont know. Tim, who has a car the same colour, same tuner, but a complete L2 Setup....when you read his turbo tag it say L2 made within 1rwkws on our tuners dyno. Mine was more responsive but that could have been down to engine health, the temperature on the day. The take away is in our case the L2 hit a wall at 19psi just like the plain TD06 with regards to making more power with boost and was no more responsive or powerful. I had an L2, and was so unconvinced by any real tangible difference I sold it to Kris who is now running it with my old manifold. If back to back testing with the same tuner and same model engine and same dyno showed more potential I sure as shit would have sold Kris my current turbo and kept the L2. So then you have the the TD06-25G. I think that technically the TD06-25G is a TD06SH-25G. Whatever it really is, the thing to remember is that the rear housings cant be swapped between them Here is the L2 I sold to Kris next to my TD06-25G In this case the wheel is going to make a difference to performance. If you are talking the difference between the wheels that can have their housings swapped, 11 blade, 12 blade etc? I think its a bees dick between them. The wheel off the bigger TD06-25G is going to flow a lot different. Thats why I think Trust list the T67-25G differently to the TD06-25G as the turbine is significantly different that given the same compressor will deliver different power and response. I am pretty sure you cannot get a 20G with the same turbine as the TD06-25G