Stevoss

hey guys bought a unknown condition rb25det motor off ebay for cheap ($180), pulled the head off and noticed it had detonated and blown the head gasket around no 6 and cracked the piston. Here are some photos of the damage do you think it is usable in my 25/30 build? damage is only from cylinder 6. also i accidentaly mixed up the order of which lifter was which does that matter (because of the matched wear on the cam and lifter)?? if so could i just use a set of poncams instead, and what kind of stronger valve springs should i be looking @ with running the motor and 25psi of boost?

seen a few done before on youtube?, its the same as any motor swap, mounts, exhaust, plumbing, wire.

dave @ daves paint and panel at cardiff, he is expensive, but does some dam good work.

i got a z32 one from a jap wreckers sent it to matt (nistune) and plugged and play

have you removed the hicas, mine was absolute crap and swayed like crazy under boost in a straight line, till i removed it

92 Series 1 $5300 bought at start of the year. *Stock with a pod filter and B.o.v *127000kms *1 owner past 8 years Old guy, 2nd owner in aus.

what kind of restriction would you expect if you used a 3" intake pipe on the new 4" atr43g3?

rich and retard, or maxing out the afm, check timing (in the manual) and then go see dvs jez. hes on the coast.

In the first post in the thread stao said he had valve float which caused boost leak and sloppy response it might be something else to consider. I guess you also did the other basic checks like static ignition timing, leakdown and compression tests?

Another thing to test is the pressure drop in the intake using a manometer, there is a article on autospeed on how to make 1 at home for cheap.

I have been reading all your posts going back a while, when you have been doing the inlet pressure test have you had the throttle open or closed? If you havent it might be an idea to try that, on that idea I am not sure whether that would blow through the motor and you lose pressure out of the exhaust, if it does I would get a blanking plate at the cat and bolt it on, then you can check everything. Another thing what boost control are you using? Can you borrow a turbotech and check to make sure it can be ruled out, I know you had a turbo smart boost tee, I have found them to be terribly unreliable for consistant numbers and runs on the dyno.

yes cas they heated up causing the insulation to break down enough to cause the car to stall and wont start until it had cooled down. have you got a spark plug gap tester tool you can use? like this so you can actually see if you are getting spark use a test light pull 1 of the clips off the injectors and test across the pins on the plug to make sure you are getting a injector pulse with the car cranking.

get a msd window switch

sounds very cas or igniter issue

bosch 044, they are pretty universal, installed intank with a filter or external and they cost $200

what about smash the window and pull the key??

any results on a rb2530? Would a ss2 be restrictive? Or would a atr43 g4 with .82 be more suitable?

correct e15et injectors are the very same as the vlt injectors

on the silvia forums i sold my set in 2 days.

Rims are sold for asking price, lol at lowballers.

Just to update I bought the auto technica rails which bolted straight in, so if I have problems should be a easy engineering cert.

Tyres are sold

Price reduction 400, tyres are sold pending payment.

back up for sale, pick-up only.

Pickup only.