snozzle

very interested in apexi pods + brackets if your willing to send to perth email me a pic to [email protected] and also your bank details

why do you want to downsize??

the can develop cracks after alot of abuse and eventually shatter - im running a twin plate that comes with a chromoly flywheel nismo/exedy etc etc do lightweight chromoly flywheels if you baby your car dont worry about it but if your gonna give it some abuse (majority of people on this forum) you should opt for a chromoly flywheel, not worth taking the risk, in my opinion

800hp..... response...... ha ha ha what lol

im after a kit like this aswell !

oooooo shit just got interesting

interested in a set for my r33 - still avail ?

yeah ive never had a problem with hyperdrive - andrew is a good tuner, i just wish they had a 4 wheel dyno lol

Ive never had a problem working at TDC, on the rb engine you have to move the inlet cam about 30 degrees anti clock wise to even begin to open, thats quite alot of movenent.. i think you just have to be abit more careful when your bolting teh cam shaft down, make sure the lobes on cyl 1 are looking 10 o clock on inlet side and 2 o clock on the exh everyone has their own methods, i dont see why you HAVE to work at TDC but its just what i have always done

all rb engines use the same flywheel so yes but id recommend a chromoly flywheel for peace of mind, herd some bad stories with high hp cars and stock flywheels

his engine has hydraulic lifters, no clearance adjustment is possible, neither is it needed

if you were working on the engine while number 1 cyl 1 was at tdc which is wat u should be doing and moved the cam substantially without a timing belt on you may have opened your valves and smacked the piston causing them to bend, quite possible that ur mechanic tried to remove (undo) the cam gear after he took the timing belt off and the cam rotated during this without the crank moving at the same time

good read ty lol

re-use the metal one but apply a very thin layer of rtv silicone, paper gaskets are gayyyyyyyyyyyy

Agreed. A car barely comes onto boost with one in there anyway. Im keen to see what would happen to an engine being constantly thrashed with one in there though. Who wants to be a test dummy

i googled "radars in graham farmer tunnel" and found nothing so im pretty sure its something else or something they r just testing atm, not in full swing yet

theres a cbc in malaga aswell on marshal road

do u know if ur head got skimmed before you had it skimmed this time round? sounds like it has been skimmed more than 10-20thou - which you definently need to make up for with a metal head gasket id also run arp head studs as oems arent too flash on high boost. its a hard concept to understand but an incorrect quench distance results in pre-ignition NOT because of the consequent CR. unfortunately i know more about the sr20 quench pad operation as ive built one before but im quite new to the rb25/26 combustion chamber design, i have not built one before so i cant give you very specific advice, sorry

you should investigate the quench distance/area in your head, pretty sure its the distance between the piston and cyl head at tdc if this is incorrect it can lead to detonation all over the shop i managed to find this info off another forum " From my experience RB's are notorius to knock based on their cylinder head design alone. Whats good for response, and fuel economy isnt always the best for high timing. The quench pads in the cylinder head love to heat up when EGT's are high, and when timing is too far advanced or to retarded. They act almost like a glow plug and hold in heat more so on the intake side. When the fuel is squirted into the combustion chamber some of this air/fuel mixture can get trapped between the piston and quench pad. As this mixture is compressed when the piston is traveling upwards into the glowing hot quench pad it can be pre-ignited, this occurs right before the spark is actually fired. This small amount of pre-ignition isnt shown on an a/f meter since its getting expelled with the rest of the fuel burnt by the actual spark on the exhaust stroke. So the a/f meter might be reading pig rich when actually the engine is pre-detonating its head off. The next issue is the fact that the quench pads take up most of the flack from this small amount of pre-det so it goes almost unseen on the spark plug readings. Therefore a good knock monitoring system should be used. I have in the past been against them, but after burning a couple of motors here due to this same pre-det issue caused by a CAS/ECU related error I have decided to go to one next time around. If anyone cares to see what type of damage I'm talking about look for my past build thread, it shows plenty of it on the cylinder head, and pistons. "

a light skim is usually 10 thou which is 0.25mm - will make minimal difference 0.50mm skim is actually quite alot i think running a higher comp ratio on an oem gasket is probably not the smartest idea but it all depends on what boost your going to be running and how much was actually removed from the head, im also assuming the block hasnt been skimmed ? i wouldnt say its wrong as such so dont stress, but i would have done it slightly differently

so no more tunnel runs then?

weather seems to be drying up good temps for forced induction i think anyone want to or is going to make a cruise up?

will u do the injectors for 650 delivered?

the air filters look pretty dirty/old or is it just a poor photo? how old are the filters?

do you still have the injectors? got a pic of them? how old are they?