rondofj

I heard even your turbo got welded to the manifold by Scotty..

GTX costs 3X as much for not much gain.

Thanks Jase, that is good, ordering soon..........

That link I posted for the TD06SL2-20G T3/10cm/V Band/No anti surge is the correct/ favorite one? Need to order.. Dont know if I went too big in spring choice for my 40mm compgate - 18psi.. http://www.ebay.com....=item43b1c6bf4b Plan is to get tired of the td06-20G in two years, get a top mount mani, relocate cross-over pipes, modify/extend dump n plumb-back and order T67-25G comp cover and CHRA -noting the rear housing is same as the SL2-20G.

G'Day Kando Klan, I just ordered a 40mm Turbosmart gate (with 18psi spring) from the US, now need to order my kando - would love 300rwkw and the T67-25G (R34 GTT NEO) but it will be a low mount on stock manifold with cross-over cooler pipes, fully street-setup, hence going the TD06SL2-20G 10cm. Is this the one I should order: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Non-AntiSurge-TD06SL2-20G-w-T3-10cm-V-Band-Housing-/290745401163?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b1c6bf4b I know this will be very lucky/stretched to make 280rwkw on 98, but theres no other option for a hard-pulling stock setup, from my limited knowledge..

Whats Mick O's number guys?

haha keep the ideas coming fellas.. I got 60lb siemens deka injectors artz, this weekend I'm goin to solder up my Z32 plug onto my stock loom with my non-existant soldering skills..

I do have a cooler n injectors, just need the hairdryer..

Erm..Anyone who has done this? :S

Ok after reading countless threads and online material, I thought I would post it up due to getting many conflicting pieces of information: I am deciding between a Kando T67-25G/ TD06-20g or Precision 5558/ 5557 for my R34 RB25 -low-mount ext gate setup, stock exhaust manifold and cooler pipes over engine from drivers side/past fan and over the cam covers. The Kando thread has numerous posts indicating the T67-25G can NOT be low-mounted, even with a thick ass spacer. But then a dude on here has told me it CAN be. Someone else suggested to try a smaller 3" comp cover for the T67 (would make less power I know). Second option is a Precision CEA 5557 or 5558, can THIS be low-mounted as above? I would want to know if its physically smaller or bigger than the Kando T67? Has anyone actually succeeded in low mounting these on their RB25? Please let me know. The T67 is my gun choice. Top-mount manifold and re-routing/shortening the cooler pipes is for the next stage as it adds more cost - relocating the BOV, sensors and hoses that come with the layout. These are on the way of a high-mount turbo - see pic of what my setup is like. If these two options above are not possible then I have to settle with the smaller Kando TD06-20G 10cm. Please don't ask me to get a HG or a GT3076R, as these two are not on my list. I'm after brutal delivery / around 280-300ish rwkw as opposed to smooth and linear. I have two turbos to eliminate from my list of three and need your help

Will also consider a turbosmart compgate 40mm,for up to $300.

In either condition Brand New and with warranty - not more than $330 Used but reasonably new and in perfect working order - less than the price above depending on age/condition Please PM me if you meet the above as I prefer to buy local, else its ebay for me. thanks Ron

And how is the battery voltage useful, explain? As most cars, like the vast majority dont come with one.

I dont understand why some turbo cars eg R34GTT came with the stupid useless battery voltage gauge and the boost gauge which isnt accurate( and generally replaced when modded anyway). The most important gauge, the AFR gauge could have taken their place.

Lol at asian father encouragement Jase.. Funny as

Perth to Goldcoast non stop? mad???

I run 235/40/18 bridgestone potenzas inflated to 40psi on +38 (shit)offset RAYS Volk lightweight wheels, stock diff I think, and a measly 200rwkw. The car came with Cusco adjustable suspension which is too hard for my liking, and is lowered to ok height. I spin first easy and second spins a fair bit too when giving it some stick driving straight, it usually side steps, I never LAUNCH. I would really like to avoid this spinning and sidestepping, I think I'm running too much tyre pressure, too skinny tyres with bad offset and a hard suspension, maybe get some pineapples, would like to soften er up...hmmm

Is that what it costs to clear a defect? man everything here in nsw is a total rip-off lol

Bro if ur piston melted you simply go to the shop buy a new piston chuck that in and u all set and dont even have to use fulstops commas and what not no worries as this threads in wasteland now

Lookin at too many pictures, the non pornographic ones..

Mine

So is it the strut tower that fowls the large compressor housing of the T67? 30mm is a huge spacer btw, assuming you need at least that much to clear the engine block/ rocker cover bottom edge..

I been thinking of going T67 on NZ manifold and 44mm gate on my 34 too but realized I have to re-route my cross over intake pipe, BOV and all the associated hoses and sensors, what a headfk job..The typical U layout cooler pipes will foul any highmount turbos.. Man would have loved a T67 but too much pain, unless theres better ways..will stick with the TD06 for now

In-car video showing the 34 boosting hard on full boost or its not true? Nah man but Im sure we would all love to see

Duno what it is mate, its pretty f*ked getting 19-20L/100kms, will definitey have that issue addressed in the tune when I do a turbo upgrade/ tune. My new O2 sensor cannot be the prob, I was getting similar economy with the old one, the sensor is working ok because I do get better economy on long drives