rondofj

U can use google to search from ur ph and plenty of results from SAU will come up.

Thanks man, Garret turbos working out far cheaper than Hypergear SS series turbos which are $1650+ delivery.....its a completely no-brainer isn't it?? Buying a superior product for cheaper too. ! !

Hey jet do u mind tellin me where to get the gt3076 at that price, cheers

Is it true that nowadays the Garrets are costing as much as or less than the Hypergears, which are not a fully bolt on either.?? Re: custom intake, 90deg elbow, water lines etc, the only thing that bolts on in the HG and not on the garrets is the dump. Hence makes a lot more sense to go Garret..Or did I miss something..

just disconnect your plug while its idling high and see if it drops back down to normal speeds.

Pics or ban mate..

My idle is unnecessarily high on cold starts, even now in summer, like around 1400rpms, but once warm, it drops to 850-900rpms. When I disconnect the plug from the IACV at the back of the intake manifold during cold starts, the idle immediately drops to the normal 850-900rpms. I have already cleaned my IACV, just wondering if my cold start valve is farked.. On my NEO, the IACV and cold start valve is one unit unlike R33s.

R34 NEO COVER & BRACKETS $55 STOCK R34 DUMP WITH HEATSHIELD & BRAND NEW GASKET AND BOLTS $25 R34 NEO TURBO FUEL PUMP $30 O2 SENSOR $25 ALL PARTS IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION These parts will fit all skylines R32, R33 and R34. Pickup from 74-76 Pitt Street, Parramatta NSW 2150 (anytime except 8am-7pm weekdays), OR if posting then: All freight costs to be as per www.auspost.com.au cheers, RON - 0416424446

yes

Hey Sinno many thanks for that man

Hey Sarge did u get your missing kilowatts after you fixed your intake pipe?? How much power u at now?

Thats what I thought, as per my original post, ie- ss2 = GT3076 T67 = G3

Thanks man, interesting how they compare, where would you put the ss2 btw??

I dunno but the HG SS2 also looks to be in GT3076R territory, just my opinion..

Coilpacks definitely give noticeable power if your originals are f**ked. Otherwise you wont feel anything, they make it smoother n more responsive just like new plugs.

Where does HKS GTRS and 2835Pro S fit in? Im assuming GTRS = SS1 and 2835Pro S = SS1PU? Thoughts..?

Can someone correct/ clarify me: Hypergear equivalent or closest match to: Kando T67 = G3? GT3076R = Kando TD06SL2 20G(10cm) = SS2 or G3? GT3071R = SS1PU R34 Hiflow / GCG hiflow = SS1

So will this make bit less power than ss1PU but with bit better response?

R34 NEO COVER & BRACKETS $60 STOCK DUMP WITH HEATSHIELD & BRAND NEW GASKET AND BOLTS $30 R34 NEO TURBO FUEL PUMP $40 O2 SENSOR $30 ALL PARTS IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION These parts will fit all skylines R32, R33 and R34. Pickup from 74-76 Pitt Street, Parramatta NSW 2150 (anytime except 8am-7pm weekdays), OR if posting then: All freight costs to be as per www.auspost.com.au cheers, RON - 0416424446

[quote name='GTScotT' timestamp='1327007343' post='6196481' Ahh how nice it would be to start back at a stock skyline.. Simple highflow, cooler, zaust, tune. How nice it would be But then it would be boring..?

You guys are confusing me a bit, I only knew of the SS1.5 (older version) and the SS1PU, the current version with billet wheel etc which is better.. But what the hell is the PU hiflow??? Is it rated the same as SS1PU?

Whats the big difference between the ss1PU and ss1.5PU?? They are both similarly rated on the website, which ones better for the street?

When I had my car road tuned, it was running lean no matter what my tuner did with the maps. We really thought it had to be the fuel pump. Took it to dyno, had fuel pressure gauge hooked up and its running nice and sweet, ideal fuel pressure 43psi I think, no lean issues. Had it tuned on dyno nice and well. Took it once more to the road to check AFRs and that everythings ok. Car runs really amazing after the tune but... guess what, afrs were screwed again, running lean on the road. The wideband sensor was straight off the tailpipe. Back to workshop, scratching heads, then the workshop owner suggested to use his bung - basically now we connected the wideband to a roughly 20cm long metal tube and clipped the whole thing back in the tailpipe - dont ask me how, I dont remember lol.. Out on the road again and....absolutely brilliant AFRs (no leaning whatsoever) - as witnessed on the dyno during tuning...We are like WTF? That little metal tube made a huge difference to the sensor's readings. I think it was because of my XForce oval exhaust which has a perforated metal tip and insides where the sensor was mounted - this possibly messed with the exhaust flow / turbulence and increased the air supply (outside air??) into the sensor, hence lean out issues. The pipe possible solved that as it was not perforated like my exhaust tip and walls inside. But yeah, this was definitely an issue that my tuner never had with any car before... Lesson learned - Use a pipe in your exhaust and put your wideband in it. Or better still, make a bung in your dump for the wideband which is what he recommended.

Bulshit. I installed YJ on my RB25neo a few weeks ago- perfect fit, sits straight and uses 2 bolts per coil.