KiwiRS4T

You can buy the Walbro with a Nissan kit so presumably you can get the kits seperately.

Hi Dan (can't reply to posts atm) The dial faces were printed in Auckland - got ten made for $300 which is why I am trying to recoup some of that (7 left). Your local speedo repair shop may be able to point you to some where or maybe some mac operator could make a one off for you. Here's the wiring instructions (courtesy of a fellow Aussie): http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/111435-speedo-corrector-installed-r33-gtr.html

Well done. Best wishes for a trouble free birth!

NB this is for a S1 Stagea - could probably be adapted for an R33 Skyline but I haven't tried yet.

Ok reviving an old thread as there are issues with the site and I can't post in the for sale section. I have bought three Jaycar speedo corrector kits as they are being discontinued and I am able to offer a 300km/hr speedo kit consisting of a dial face, the Jaycar spedo correction kit (requires assembly/soldering) and the isolating washer mentioned in the simple wiring instructions I have found to make it all work for AU$99 posted anywhere in Australia.

So what happened? New wheel in OK?!

PM me for a 300km/hr speedo for your S1 for $99. Consists of a S1 300km/hr dial face, Jaycar speedo corrector kit (yes requires assembly) and an isolating washer as described in the full wiring instructions I can supply.

Synthetic oil is more tolerant of overheating than mineral but if you are regularly getting that hot you need an oil cooler preferably thermostat controlled.

Here is an email from Motul NZ: Hi BobIn New Zealand we have had a lot of experience with E85, as you say there is a lot of reading material on the topic. I would suggest talking to Carl Ruiterman from E&H motors in Pukekohe about running your RB30 on E85 and 300V he has a lot of experience tuning RB's and SR's on his dyno and also his gymkhana WRX uses E85 and 300V. I will be back to work on Monday the 9th, feel free to call me on the number below if you would like to talk more about what we have learnt. I am available before then on this number but coverage is a bit scratchy. Chris Walkley (from mobile) Automotive Sales ManagerMotul Oil NZ021 946 020 and here is a post from a top engine builder (didn't ask his permission so haven't named him or the drifter): We had this issue with [top drifter]'s E85 fueled SR20 engine last season. Another sponsor supplied him with his synthetic oil, and we couldn't figure out why the engines wouldn't last. After exhausting all other avenues, we put it down to the oil. The other sponsor assured the team the oil was compatible with E85, but we had our suspicions looking at the engine wear/damage. A call was made direct to the manufacturer in the USA and they confirmed to us that the oil he was using was definately not compatible with E85 and would cause catastrophic engine failure. As soon the team changed to Motul oil, no more engine issues. We use Motul 3000 20W50 mineral oil to run the engine in, then switch to Motul 300V synthetic oil once engine is tuned.

Yes probably worth doing if you have changed your fuel for a different octane rating but as you have a S2 you should get a Nistune chip and then your car can be tuned properly.

I bought the HDi R33 unit which comes with all the piping to go like a normal fmic although in fact I have a FF plenum but they are not too expensive and I am hoping to make around 350kw with mine. http://www.performance-wise.com/USERIMAGES/procart12.htm

Here's a genuine one: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-water-pump-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-gts4-gts25-rb20e-rb25de-p-586.html You can get cheaper but its half the price of an N1 pump.

There is a universal aftermarket one that fits all - there is a difference of a bolt hole which can be covered by the gasket and gasket goo with no leaking.

^^^what he said. N1 pump is made to cope with high revs so not so good for normal use. Most journeys are less than 10km so an early opening thermostat just means it takes longer to get to proper operating temperature (or often never does so oil beomes more diluted). And once the thermostat is open it makes no difference to the cooling ability on a hot day or on the track.

Oops just noticed you said replace your fmic - you already have one? I presume you want a better one then the HDI R33 kit pretty much fits.

Yep I had one of those return flow coolers - do up the pipes first to get the position and then modify the brackets to suit.

Just lever it out with a big screwdriver and if you can't find what you want from a pipe fitting shop cut and weld the one you have.

If you had 6 throttle bodies they would still not flow any more than the stocker as you are limited by what the turbo can make.

Unless the turbo has been highflowed it will not make enough power to require new injectors and afm. If you want 280kw don't waste money on changing your inlet manifold get a better turbo such as a Gt3076 or a Hypergear built one.

Stock throttle body is good for over 350kw so should do you for a while. Have you got the Nistune and Z32 afm? What turbo are you fitting?

A "cheap" tune can = an expensive rebuild. Save up and go with the recommendations above ^^^

" Doesn't the RB crankcase breath through the head with the stock set up? I thought that was the point of the breather system on the rocker covers. I understand that gases coming from the bottom end are competing against oil trying to flow back in the opposite direction, but otoh if you are producing a load of gas then surely you have a busted piston ring at the very least? " No. I have read the 40 page oil control thread twice http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control and it is a problem suffered by others with a new or old engine. It only manifests itself with sustained high revs therefore really only on the track. I had it with my RB25DET and now again with the RB30DET (yes I should have learnt). You are right about the breathers on the can covers but when the head fills with oil they just fill the catch can with oil (and blow it out elsehere as well). The problem is thought to be worse with RB30s. There is always some blow by and especially at high boost and revs and the action of the crank is thought to make things worse. So yes you need to keep your breathers and preferably run them through a catch can and then into the intake for a street car.

Slightly off topic but I am planning to get the eflex set up even though I am only running E10 at the moment and the tuners complain that it varies from batch to batch. Does anyone know if the eflex set-up can adjust to suit different octane levels in petrol or does it only measure ethanol levels?

This is the kind of question that could be determined by someone with a fully equipped lab and lots of money e.g. the oil companies. The lack of precise information from them suggests that they know the likely answer or have already done the research and don't like the answer! I have emailed Motul and am still waiting for a reply. I don't think sales reps are necessarily a good source of information - what we want are written answers from their tech departments.

I am making a venturi set up attached to my dip stick tube to remove pressure from my crank case. This is a stop gap plan until I can get the engine out to do the proper oil control - smaller oil restrictors and better drains etc. There is a theory that the "drain" some people put at the back of the head actually acts as a breather for the sump and that excessive pressure build up in the crankcase helps tp prevent the oil from draining from the head. If it works I'll post up pics etc