KiwiRS4T

If you want big power you need to balance the crankshaft (and other components) and get a quality harmonic balancer. How can that do any harm??? Why would it drive any differently at moderate speeds/power levels?

Can you please try them for just a 19 row core posted to NZ (should be much the same price as Australia) ? I can pay you or them direct whatever suits.

You don't need a dyno but you do need a wideband meter. Are you sure there is no tuner on Okinawa? Who made your ecu - when you say aftermarket is it an apexi pfc or just a chipped stock ecu like a mines?

If it is the boost cut, R and R or suchlike then a tune with a Nistune will fix it.

Curved slots look cooler than straight ones. Ones that end before the edge are designed to reduce cracking (so they say). Cross drilled ones crack. No idea what the dimples are for if you have slots. Cross drilled are supposed to aid cooling and/or let gasses escape- dimples wouldn't do that. Slots themselves are useful in getting rid of gases, keep pads clean get rid of water.

I would love one but I have just bought an Earls thermostat for $200 and a relocation thingy just need the 19 row core. If anyone already has a core and just wants the rest of the kit Ill buy the core off them! Seatrab and Mocal are top brands.

??? I just bought an apexi electronic oil pressure gauge complete with sender unit for $89!

Like the steering wheel better than mine. Is that a stock S2 thing?

Nistune is a good idea but doubt it will fix your problem. Try cleaning your afm or checking the soldering inside or the plug.

The best way to lower it and improve the suspension is to get a set of Bilstein shocks. You can set the height of the car even with your stock springs. I can give you the numbers for my Tein springs but I don't know what height difference they will make with your standard shocks: Front Tein F- SIN78-010311-HCC Rear Tein R- SIN79-010382-HCC

Do you also have the original build plate with RB25DET?

OK well don't bother with a kit just pull the sump off carefully and you can probably reuse the gasket and take out the metal filter (its really just a screen) and clean it and put it back together and then change the fluid as per above - you will need about 12L so if you can buy a 20L container of preferably syntheitic or semi-synthetic automatic transmission fluid you can use that for the auto, the attessa and the power steering.

Its a Jatco transmission same as R34 Skyline similar year 300ZX,, some Nissan utes Patrol?.. Doesn't your local parts store have a listing for Stagea? If all else fails you don't really need a new filter as its metal and you can just clean it with stiff brush. These are numbers for S1 but you have an S2 tranny part codes: RE4R104E is the trans. 3172841x02filter 3152641x07 oring 3139741x04 gasket You may have a slightly different trans. Heres how to change the fluid: Changing the atf is not a simple task but you can do it yourself. Dropping the sump on the auto box will only yield around 1 or 2 litres but at least then you can clean the fiter (its steel) and pan and then put it back together. then take off a hose from the transmssion oil cooler and run the engine until you have collected a couple of litres. Stop the engine and pour 2L of new atf down the dipstick (for the auto trans ) and repeat til the oil comes out clean. Could take 10 to 12 Litres.

Like this (although the 100mm version would be better): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353819-fs-er34-arc-smic/

If you're getting the GTST one for free or near then chuck it in. Otherwise get yours overhauled by an auto electrician and you should be right for another ten years or so.

If they are the ones in the photo they won't fit your car because of the forked ends on the rear unless you have a 260 or one other model I think 2wd manual.If your suspension is bog standard a heavier rear sway bar will give you the most improvement for your dollar. Then get some second hand Bilsteins retaining your stock springs.

Sorry i missed your build thread - what is your set up? Turbos, ecu? How does your chart show flywheel hp - have you pulled the motor out and put it on a bench dyno? If your pump is the original stocker progbably good idea to at leat get a new Denso equivalent. For comparisons check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/ and be sure to post yours in there when you have your max boost results!

Any auto parts store should have something -its a very common gearbox try for skyline R33 or R34 depending on which Stagea model you have.

I have a stock R32 GTR airbox and snorkel (don't know if it is the same as R33) $220 including post.

They all create drag and are noisy. Car looks best with them off so make a cover and keep them in the boot.

Why do you want an 80mm throttle body? Just use your stock 65mm item - there are bolt on spacers (or you could make one) to go from 80mm to 65mm.

Speedo correcter Mk II KC-5435 (plus box HB 6015)

I would have made it 320km/hr but it would be too crowded. The stock 180 speedo is ridiculous so what to choose? 240 or 280 would be enough in most circumstances but 300 should suit most everybody. Its not economical to make a range of different maxima so I settled on 300.

Like Motul RBF600

Actually with my RB30 I will be reducing the rev limit from 7000 to 6800 as it is a standard unrecond bottom end!