KiwiRS4T

I had a Jaycar ebc. It was a great unit - took a little practice to find how it worked but could adjust speed of build boost finely. Also had a switch so you could have two complete maps. ( I only sold it because I got a Link which will do the boost control as well). Ran it with a SITC SLD and SAFC as I had an auto Stagea at the time - their unique ecus don't allow for nistune or other aftermarket ecu but now manual so all good.

Should be plenty around form people upgrading to Z32, Link/Vipec etc.Plenty in NZ - have a look thruigh these ( I could probably get you a couple or three cheap and post them to you if you can't buy direct): http://www.trademe.c...rch_suggested=0

Got shrouds for the electric fans? Keep the stocker and put the boost up 1psi. If you're serious about reducing drag you will have removed the aircond and power steering?

What are you tuning with ? PFC? nistune? Get some afms - RB20/25s if you are a cheapskate or Z32/nismo to do it right or get a Link/Vipec and bin the afms.

Or you could just get an Apexi SAFC for $100 and a cheap manual bleed valve - won't make much difference if the boost creeps up a pound or two on a cold day. If the loom extender doesn't come with the Haltech that's another $300. As well as a laptop you'll need a dyno - wideband meter etc. You don't need to change the boost curve for the rain - just adjust foot pressure on the accelerator pedal.

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu. If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS 1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator. 2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined. What car is it on and why are you taking it off? If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine. Ask if you want more info.

So condescending... Just what is so wrong? That it is easier to send info as an attachment to an email than post it on here? That SLDs have been around for a long time? That they do not harm your ecu (if wired correctly naturally)? That cars sold on the Japanese domestic market are speed limited whereas your aussie (or NZ assembled) are not? That 200km/hr on the local highway is irresponsible? That 200km/hr is possible on many race tracks? That (some) Skyline owners jist cut a wire to the ecu plug to defeat the speed limiter? That just leaves the question of the E-manage and after market ecus getting rid of the speed limiter. I will accept that you have been unable to wire your e-manage so as to defeat the speed limiter and you may be right that it cannot be done with your car although I would be suprised But replacing it with an aftermarket unit will definitely do the trick. There is a VQ powered NM Stagea drifter (albeit a manual ) running around here with a wired in Link and that can go as fast as its little wheels will turn.

I shouldn't think its secrecy - just easier to email stuff than try posting it on here sometimes. Speed limit defenders have been around for ages they do not harm the ecu in any way. - only JDM vehicles are limited to 180 all your aussie assembled cars can go as fast as their engines will allow so its not so radical. Of course doing 200km/hr down your local highway is irresponsible but there are plenty of tracks where you can exceed 180. Nistune, E-Manage and all aftermarket ecus will get rid of the speedlimiter as wll. Skyline owners just snip the speed signal wire or put a switch in it to defeat it.

Don't

Buy an alarm and /or tracking device instead !

GTR bov bolts on in the same place but the outlet hose is bigger - easy to adapt I have one on my Stagea. GTR bov is better made (you'll see when you look at it). What are you using for boost control? Usually even with just bigger exhaust and better i/c you will hit 10psi. If you have no boost controller at least by pass your solenoid: This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses [thanks to SK]. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose that goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

What's it worth? A lot more than you could ever sell it for. Plan A - just keep it (what are you towing your track car with?)! Plan B - stick a price on it that you would be happy with and wait for someone to come on this forum looking for a good C34 and buy it. Plan C - if you must sell it wait until you can organise an engine swap with someone - I would have paid someone $10k and given them my old engine for one like yours - (and as many other bits as they can afford) and then sell it.

Or get a couple of stock RB25 afms

I would see 2wd as a big downside - compensated in part if it were a manual. Some RS models have no turbo.

You really do need to use google. Try "Apexi SAFC" and "what is an afm" etc.

A z32afm reads the airflow and sends the info to the ecu. They are used because they can read more flow than the stock afm. An Apexi SAFC adjusts the signal from the afm in order to try to acheive better afrs - a task much better left to the nistuned ecu. Consider getting one of the new Deatschwerks pumps instead of the Walbro.

This will help with the cam positions: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/

I have a set of 20mm spacersw hich i don't think I'll be needing - will know for sure in a couple of weeks - otherwise: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Other/auction-370125239.htm or: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Other/auction-370357071.htm

Put the Bilsteins on and if the spring rates are too high put the stockers back on. Bilsteins will stop the ride from being to wallowy but rear sway bar at least will improve cornering,

Like this (mine has a scoop to direct air to the snorkel):

All things being equal your engine will be more efficient so better economy but in my experience if there is more perfromance available people (like me) will translate that extra efficiency into more speed rather than better economy!!

That looks perfect

Thanks for that .Maybe its 8 for the GTR and six for the others.

Yes by all means get a narrower rims. Why would you want to buy wide rims and put undersized tyres("stretched") on them???

I have an R33GTR gearbox and clutch in my Stagea - did without booster no problem (aprt from heavy pedal) and now with FF plenum have replaced clutch m/c with shorter (Terrano but other skyline ones will do also).