KiwiRS4T

Enabling VCT requires just a little work. Poncams are getting on for a $1000. If you have the money do yourself and us a favour. Run your engine with VCT and the stock cams. Then install the Poncams and see what difference it makes ( I an mostly interested in the mid range, not the power at max revs). With the poncams in you can test with the VCT on or off. If it runs better with it off then you can disable it with not very much lost. If the poncams don't do a lot then you can resell them.

Trans cooler is not an alternative for the heat exchanger in the radiator - its main use is to warm the auto trans not to cool it. That is a secondary function.

Sadly not my Evo and more sadly still not my R34 fronted Stagea! Many or most people towing cars or boats behind their cars will be illegal. If you want a daily driver to tow a race car from time to time a Stagea would be great. But if you need an almost fulltime tow vehicle thne something like a long wheelbase Landcruiser would be better.

Just go to a radiator shop and get a new stocker or you can ask them if there is a thicker one with the same profile - same connections including for the auto trans heat exchanger - you need that to bring the auto up to optimum operating temps asap.

Youi'll be fine. Get a good towbar and a braked trailer. People are pulling Evos and Skylines on trailers behind their C34s now. Make sure the radiator and braking system is in good nick and get an aftermarket trans cooler if its an S1 - the S2 is adequate.

Get proper Stagea springs - Eibach, Teins etc forget about Peddars look up your nearest distributor on Google. Best single mod to get rid of the "boat like feeling" is a much heavier rear sway bar.

Did you buy it from an SAU merchant? Did they replace it at no cost?

3.54 appears to be the standard ratio for your cars. Have you bought a different one or is your car not currently 3.54 final drive? OK looks like n/a had 3.54 and turbos 3.13 Let me know if you have trouble finding a rear diff as the majority of NM35s in this country are n/a and I'm sure I could find you one if you want.

Get at least a Nistune chip and make you car tunable.

How did you conclude that the VCT is useless ( stupid Nissan wasting money?)Have you done a dyno run with it switched on and then with it disabled and compared the charts?

What world do they live in? 40K to 50k a long time? Most cars would be lucky to see an atf change ever. However the above article does reinforce the case against power flushing as offered by some auto shops as that is likely to lead to problems with seals etc. However overheated or burnt fluid is not good for your auto and a simple drain and refill is a good idea ( the whole 12+ litres not just the little bit in the pan).

You don't have a centre diff. Are they rebuilding your transfer box and if so what bits are they replacing or upgrading?

Hard to help when you don't say why you are ruling out a Link (new very powerful wire in versions available). Other options include : Nistune Motec

Some R31 models ran a 3.9 but much more common is the 4.1 (GTR etc) or 4.083 (Stagea). Get some help with your English when posting questions and they will be easier to answer.

I have one of these to correct my speedo for the 300km/hr dial faces I have had printed. Car is about a month from being on the road so will report when it is running.

By fitting my VQ30 ecu ( as apparently they do not have fly by wire although I have not been able to verify that myself). That should handle the basic functions and auto while the piggyback and ebc will take care of the turbo and engine management.

You can buy stuff to make your inlet cam adjustable but better to enable the VCT.

Drop the pan - clean the filter (its a metal strainer) and put the pan back on. Pull off a line from the trans cooler and run the engine to fill a 2L bottle. Pour 2L fresh stuff down the dip stick tube. Repeat - it will take 12 -14L till it comes out clean. I used a Fuchs semi synthetic (can also use it for the power steering and Attessa if you have it so get a 20L drum ).

Good job! How much to make me one?

I got that in my Stagea after a long burst at 6k revs. At best it is the RB thing of pumping too much oil up into the head - at worst broken ring lands. When you have cleaned it all up does it seem to drive OK? Compression test will help. Seems you need the oil restrictors and cleaned out/extra oil drains to fix the problem.

Well I have a Stagea VQ30 ecu for $100 if anyone wants it. Someone on this site said that the VQ30 did not have fly by wire throttle so should be ideal for someone who wants to try a mechanical throttle. Its off a n/a engine so ideally would be run with a piggyback and standalone ebc.

You know which is the fpr and which is the damper(s)? If you pull the fuel line off and turn the key does it shoot petrol out for the prime period?

I have an R33 GTR box in my S1 Stagea. Was a conversion so needed a new flywheel and the clutch cylinders and lines (and pull type clutch) . Used the stock Stagea gearbox mount and front and rear driveshafts.

Has anybody replaced the throttle body with an aftermarket one (or a mechanical Nissan one) and fitted a new accelerator pedal complete with cable?