KiwiRS4T

You can get replacement adjustable castor rods. You may be able to get eccentric bushes which will give you a little (probably not enough) adjustment. I don't see how you could extend the stock castor rod (in a way that would pass any inspection).

Don't know for sure but I have aN R33 GTR box in my Stagea with same mounts and driveshafts. Just had to change clutch and flywheel so probably need to check those items.

They are "non serviceable" as in you can't do it yourself but a driveshaft repair specialist can machine out the old universals and install new ones. Or you can get another secondhand one from a GTR, GTs4 or Stagea.

I have never heard of a Ross Balancer destroying an oil pump but then I don't know much - would be interested to hear of anyone who knows/thinks different. Sounds like you need a crank collar and a brand new pump.

Doing more than 100 on the track will supply more air than any fan.

You don't need compressed air just take out the pads and depress brake pedal. You can put progressively thinner bits of wood bits of wood in where the pads were if you are worried or have some one watch the pistons as you do it. . A tip: do one side at a time so if you forget how it is supposed to go together you can look at the other side.

No sorry - never had a temp gauge on it. Did a few track days and water temp was never an issue but then went manual. You could get one of these (I have one for my oil cooler) but may be overkill for atf : http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/coolers/components/thermostats.html If you use a good quality synthetic atf maybe just fit the gauge and see how it goes.

Well you can't dawdle when you're going to circuits all over Europe from your English base. Envious as!!!

Below is a chart showing how long your trans will last at different temps (its a US chart so in fahrenheit). It is recommended that you keep atf temps below 80deg centigrade (or say 180 fahr). I had the biggest a/market trans cooler on my Stagea when it was auto but ideally you would have it thermostatically controlled just like an engine oil cooler. You should still run it through the heat exchanger in your radiator to assist in bringing it up to optimum operating temps asap.

As well as Eibach, Tein make a big range for your car.

I plan to do this on my Stagea. have a 3.545:1 front diff - they are very common as people buy RB26s to put in their GTTs or s14s etc etc and so throw out the front diff and weld up the sump but the rears are not so common. As you say a lot of GTRs swap their 3.545 for the 4.1 but all the examples in my area have been of V-spec ones with the active diff rather than the straight mechanical one. Perhaps you should try to get a drive of an R34 to see if you like the effect first in situations other than on the motorway.

Who did the installation...Soichi? Do you have before and after dyno charts?

No damper will be able to compensate for springs which are too stiff. If you still have your stockers you could put them back and the Bilsteins should harden up the ride but not too much.

I didn't have to alter my bolt holes. Pull a wheel off and have a look to see what you've got.

Owner of my local workshop is making about 550awkw in his 10 second GTR with a PFC. Spend your $$$ on other things unless you really want to change and you have money to burn!

Yep Nismo should be fine. PFC will be fine. I have a Link G4 but yes the right tuner is the important part. And driveabilty - minimum lag and max midrange power is what makes the car fun to drive not the kw at max revs!

If you're not planning any mods SAFC will be better than nothing ( I had one once). Should fix your R&R but get it tuned on a dyno just to satisfy yourself that everything is safe (shouldn't cost too much). And you are unlikely to get better economy - if it goes better you will go faster!

Doubt the strut brace will fit or they would list C34 Stagea. Why didn't you get an RB30? Should still make 350awkw with the right ecu (what are you using) and a good tune. Got a new fuel pump? Get some copper plugs.

Nistune is fine but you would have to get something else to check knock levels if you're going to play with the timing so a second hand PFC would probably be more cost effective or better still a Link/Vipec with the knock control which would be more expensive (and you would be better to get your turbo upgraded with that money).

Nistune, PFC or Link/Vipec will all do. Check the RB30 dyno results thread to see if 38mm wastegate will be big enough. Screamer pipe is illegal most places. Make sure you enable VCT If you're going to track it get a bigger & baffled sump.

Look depends partly on the colour of your car. I like 33 or 34 GTR rims and have a set of TE37s. front track is narrower than the rear so a set of 20mm spacers on the front or different offsets will fix that.

I believe stock is 205/15. The door label will be correct. 235s are suitable for 8in rims. Your tyre guy is trying to upsell to make more money. These are "normal": 7in 205 or 215 7.5in 215 or 225 8in 225 or 235 You can go a little wider in each case but there is no point.

The system normally operates 95% rear 5% front until the sensors sense slip at the rear when they transfer more to the front. The synchro button will set it to 50/50 from rest but once it attains a certain speed (about 30km'hr but ican't remembers - did see it somewhere) the Atessa computer takes over again regardles of the position of the switch. The 4wd light comes on if you pull out the fuse or if the Atessa fluid level is low. Possibly some other circumstances but I only know the first two for sure.

I doubt it very much. I say that because the one I saw on a Skyline fitted on the side of the turret rather than on top but having just done a quick search I see there is a large variety of types. But measure between the struts on the two cars first to see if they are the same at all.

+3 I've done it on my S1 easy and well worthwhile.