KiwiRS4T

Front driveshaft. Squirt with CRC or similar and leave for as long as possible. Try to get a ring spanner on and whack with hammer (from memory you need two spanners to stop the bolt turning with the nut). Presume you have already removed clutch slave cylinder?

My engine failed after hammering on the track. Its not the amount of boost that kills them I think its a combination of oil delivery problems and tune. You will find 250 - 270 awkw plenty fast enough on the road. Make sure you use a quality synthetic such as Motul and go to some trouble to find a really good tuner.

There's an as new R34 G4 Link for sale on SDU for $1500 which is a decent saving. EFI can install and tune.http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63065

I was happy with my highflow. It made 245awkw which was quite fast and with a better fmic and nistune would probab;y have made about 260- 270 which is really quite fast (and acheivable cheaper with hyper highflow than GCG). Then I blew my engine and decided to get an RB30 hence the GT3540 although people have had very good results with a GT3076 on their RB30. I would suggest you get the cheaper highflow or if you really want 300kw get the GT3076.

Here are some ecu numbers - the list may not be complete but may help identify what you have: http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/ECU%20Identification.txt

About 4L - gp to the top of this page - the first sticky tells you what to use - advice from SK and Duncan - two reliable sources. Here is the manual answer: For fluids the manual recommends Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres] Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites] Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre] Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres] People with worn gearboxes use Redline lightweight shockproof - your call on that.

The pinouts for R33 and R32 are very similar. (R32 doesn't have boost solenoid - pin is used for something else). Should be able to find any pinouts you want fairly quickly on Google - some have colour codes for wires as well.

What's with the VW? Is that the alternative?!! What do you get from GCG for $2990? The GT3076R from the link above (NZ Performance ) works out at AU$1662.00 at the current exchange rate so even with postage and tax (if any) I would think there would be a decent saving. If for some reason you must have an Australian supplier try sending this guy an email before you fork out $3K: http://www.streettotrack.com/

Brand new genuine Garrett GT3076Rhttp://www.nzperform...ewCat&Submit=Go with the exchange rate it would be less than the GCG highflow even with postage. You can run the wastegate directly off the exhaust housing and plumb it back into your dump. It will easy make 300kw at 20 psi but you will need a wastegate, injectors, z32afm and a nistune. Stock manifolds will be fine although you may need a 10mm spacer for the turbo. And just as an aside - our local turbo guru prefers bush bearings! -Says they are more reliable and much cheaper to rebuild.

Nothing wrong with Tein but I don't know those numbers signify. Have a look around this website but more usefully find your local Tein dealer/service agent and make some enquiries there. http://www.tein.co.jp/products_search/jp/shashu_tekigo.cgi?lang=e&make=NISSAN

Don't have my car here ATM - is there any reason to suppose this won't work on a S1 C34? Or to put it another way can anyone with a S1 confirm that they have done this successfully?

Sorry the exact title was "tuning in RWD" and it was a few threads down - its now top of the next page.

90% of Stageas here are n/a. What are you paying (prepared to pay) for an n/a grill ? I could have a look at getting one or more to post over.

HKS F-con on a 350Z http://www.dodsonmotorsport.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=65

I got a GCG highflow and it was fine but now I wonder why I bothered - for about the same (or less) money I could have got a brand new GT3076 (in fact my GT3540 only cost NZ$2200). The advantage of the highflows is that they bolt straight up so no extra costs for new lines etc.

Mike ships all over the world:MV Automatics 1 Stirling Rd, Blackwood, SA 5051 p: (08) 83700430

You may be able to tell by the speedo drive (if they are in the boxes) as the ratios are different. Also if you can find part numbers someone with Nissan Fast should be able to tell you which is which (or if they are in fact the same).

You'll have to check the front diff ratio. The GTR is 4.1:1 so the previous owner should have changed the front diff to suit (unless he is available to be asked). I think the GTS4 is 4.3:1

There is a link in the "tuning in 2wd" thread below: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/345651-awd-to-rwd/page__hl__2wd

There are specialists who do cv joints - in my view well worth the fee to avoid a pig of a job.

You need to bleed the whole system. Get a tin of Motul RBF600 and you will effectively be replacing your fluid which would be a good idea anyway.

Checked exhaust hangers?

The numbers 40 and 45 are the aspect ratio not the height in mm. if they both had the same aspect ratio number then the wider tyre would be higher ( have a larger rolling diameter) then the narrower tyre. Google "tyre aspect ratio" for a longer explanation with diagrams etc.

Try googling those terms.

Have a look at Lithium's chart post #625 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__620 He has stock manifolds on an unopened engine. Has gone to some trouble to get it to hold boost (you need more boost) and has a .86 AR making 300kw but still with better response than yours. Maybe you need an external wastegate, better boost control and maybe try another tuner.