nizmonut

i dont know if anyone has thought of this, but any one thought of using LD28 engine mounts instead of hacking holes in bonnet subframes? this was suggested from a retired mechanic who helped with my hilux rb30 conversion.

i shoved one of these 25's in a hilux. on the loom find a 16 gauge grey wire. this is 12 volt injector feed 8 gauage white wire coil 12 volt feed ....................the above two should be spliced togther directly to a relay near the ecu kickpanel. pin 16 16 gauge orange wire ecu power feed 12 volt (to eccs relay) pin 18 16 gauge black wire pink stripe. fuel pump 12 volt feed. pin7 ecu 16 gauge yellow with blue stripe tacho signal pin 43 16 gauge grey wire red strip signal wire to ecu from ignition switch direct to dash 16 gauge blue wire temp sensor these should get your engine running http://www.meggala.com/rb25detenglish.html Rb20det_pinout.txt

1993 R32 Gts4 Fully stripped as in no longer a road car. Fibreglass bonnet, front gaurds, boot, bumpers, sideskirts. RB26/30 Stock RB30 block and cradle ACL pistons H beam rods hks metal head gasket and head bolts rb26head hks step 2 cams hks adjustable cam gears wasted spark ignition system hks f con v pro single garrett 3582 external wastegate 44 ml tial 26 oil pump n1 water pump hks valve springs retainers gtr intake 740cc top feed injectors map sensored FMIC 3 inch intake 3 inch exhaust from turbo to bumper, straight pipe. oil cooler gts4 sump pickup gts 4 auto box control wires clipped. aftermarket torque converter. stall 2250rpm ABS, brembo disc's calipers dot 5 fluid. center diff torque splitter 50/50 100/0 or on/off. lol D2 adjustable platform suspension. 401 hp 4wd 388 ftpnd 4wd @8 psi on race fuel peak torque reached top of second peak hp 3rd, overdrive off. $$$$$ i never want to add it up.

compare them, note the rb25 i used was from a gts4 r32 not a 33.

i had that exact same feeling in mine when it was coasting around town at low rpm... pull the 4wd fuse and go for a drive. if it stops it is described below. it was solved the day i had all four tyres changed to r16 50 225 fronts, r16 50 265 rears, even though my old tyres were the same size al biet the width they still cause the 4wd system to panic because it was picking up the difference in diameter even though it was minimal.

not even that....? something seriously wrong there with the fitment dude? push comes to shove get a thermostatic switch and replace the viscous fan and shroud with a couple of 10 inch electric fans. just make sure when you do it you hook a wire to the Auxilary idle control valve so the engine can compensate for the load the fans will be drawing from the alternator......... in saying that just get the set up out of a nissan bluebird maxima or similar...

yeah, i was lucky enough to get my hands on a HKS Fcon pro V fuel/ignition system there brilliant, every dynamic can be tuned at every 100 rpm interval, then it can self learn after that.

I placed the abs unit on a switch which is shared with the 4wd system as i do a bit of sunday drifting at club events, atleast this way you can turn it back on come road time.

i have a auto in my gtr at the mo, while im saving to rebuild my manual for dog engagement and straight cut teeth. so we thought why not have some fun, shoved a trans brake on the transmission and still beats manuals around our local race track and as for full blown drag cars, was the HKS Drag r33 not a full blown drag car, croydon's? as for the idea of someone stickin an auto in a gtr being a egghead......i wouldnt be so judgemental, a guy in our club has a auto r34 gtr and has no problem keeping up with the manual skylines.

sorry, i just wanted to brag about my new hair dryer, anyway, good luck with that, custom outhouse dump pipe. minta. lol

spark plugs, dime a dozen, coils, get a vt commodore coil pack 4 lengths of 12 gauge auto electrical wire 6 desent length ignition leads and six female spade connectors, and then read the wasted spark thread on SAU forums. as for the broken studs, a cordless drill and a screw extractor set, and as for the manifold get it refaced or just buy an aftermarket one, pull yer thermostat out, put in a descent radiator, give it a flush, oil change and i think you will find its a whole new world of smoothness. and by the sounds of it invest in some king springs and get rid of the choppies

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vo...l=fuel+pressure

when you say tappet cover are talking single cam rb or twin cam if twin cam its the cam cover and i doubt it would be anything under there causing it if its single cam the rattle like a diesil anyway pull it off again and check the tappets, but more likley i think you'll find its a loose plug as a result of going over the speed bump. chech your exhaust manifold the ticking can sometimes be mistaken for a blown gasket between the head and exhaust manifold. hitting the exhaust may have rattled it enough to let it go.

thats cause the factory ecu's boost cut a 16 psi.

naah i'm running a 3582, it's different, looks like a td04vh off a wrx looking at the rear half, flange, internal gate etc. the inlet on the 3582's 103.6 ml outlet 63 ml T3 exhaust flange or 25. the a/r is 6.3 exhaust side, a/r 70 intake side

get rid of the BeeR limiter, the above picture is a result of using one of these limiters. it was in a week. Rb20det_pinout.txt i dont have a pinout for the rb25 handy, however if you do find one compare the numbers and description for the both, you may want to check the tps and afm using different pins on the ecu's, pluging the 20det loom into a an ecu designed and programed for a rb25 for example will missmatch these pins. but 10 bucks says its the limiter.

it has been done before..using the hks metal head gaskets that is.. however like any gasket once it has been compressed once it is never the same again