nizmonut

thats because rb25 injectors are high impedence side feed and rb26 are low impedance top feed.

boat anchor, go buy, another one.

yep, if i ever roll bowl and as*hole my gts4 it's gettin converted into a gts4 pick up. lol i'd say you would have to reinforce the rear struts and between the B pillar back down to the strut towers, maybe beef up the folded panel steel rails under the floor pan.

its always the tps.

the last set of pistons and rods i bought from HKS were chromolly steel not alloy.

3700, isnt that about the rpm that the nvcs kicks in on those rb25 heads? maybe taking a moment longer for the ecu to match the fuel. ??? just a suggestion.

no schtikerz but just as lethal, soon to be sign written.

this is one area where paper work doesnt go amiss, ask for reciepts when purchasing "rebuilt" engines. signs of a rebuilt engine"recent" is the ever present gasket glue around the sump and main seal, and water pump housing. in areas the head gasket protrudes from under the head, and from memory you can see the head gasket part number at the front right... undo the oil cap and have a look inside, stick ya finger in there and run it around, even if the engine has been used since its rebuild, if the job has been done properly there wont be any crap on the underside of the cam covers.

10psi max? that cause your rec bov, may have 10 pound spring in it, and same goes for wastegate actuator.

the exhaust cam is opening closer to the point of combustion.

take it to a tuner with a dyno, there's no substitute for a twin cam head and ecu that was never meant to have a 3litre block under it , your asking for trouble trying to DIY it. fill ya car up with 98 octane and about $800 for a full map and tune. this will get you the safest maximum hp for what the engine is capable of, not only that, the tuner can tell you details, like injector cycle, fuel pressures, timing, air flow, giving you first hand knowledge of how close to the limit the sensors are, eg out flowing the afm, leaning the engine out due to low fuel pressure, and the duty cycle of the injectors and what % they are running at, exhaust temperature's which give a good indication of timing and air fuel ratio, as the more advanced the timing the hotter your turbo's will run and the greater the risk(for all you people still using ceramic turbo's) of sh*tting themselves. that is just scratching the surface,

1995 97 series 2 R33 rb25det NVCS. found this on the net, might be helpful Let's start w/ the function of the VTC assemblies. These assemblies are mounted on the intake cam. So there are two total. At a certain rpm/load, the VTC solenoid is de-activated and oil stops flowing to the assembly. This allows the intake cam to rotate and advance up to about 8-9 degrees. This helps high rpm hp and torque. Now because these assemblies are hydraulicly operated(engine oil pressure) this is where the problem begins. The VTC assemblies are very high up on the heads(see sig pic for reference) This means during start-up these assemblies are probably the one of the last things to get oil. Along with this, the oil gallies leading up from the oil pan are fairly small. So any clogging of these gallies from sludge will only slow the time and quantity of oil that these assemblies receive. Indications of VTC failure. Usually you will hear a *tick* when the car is cold(like a loose valve tick) and it will go away after a few seconds. When they start to get worse you will hear the tick when the car is warm and you must *lug* the engine is low gear to get rid of the tick. Finally the damn things will tick all the time! I think what's happening is that the springs inside the assemblies slowly start to get weak when they don't get enough oil. Preventative maintainance. The best thing you can do to prevent VTC failure is to CHANGE YOUR OIL REGULARLY. Remember sludge is the enemy here. Also using a oil filter that has the proper anti-drain back valve is also important. This keeps the oil pressure up as much as possible when the engine is turned off. This gets oil to the upper heads as fast as possible durning start up. Nissan oil filters are recommended and Nissan choose to use a special filter for the 92-94 SEs. Not the standard "blue" Nissan filter. Also consider switching to synthetics if possible.

15 G and climbing.401hp@all 4 8 psi 3582 external rb30/26det etc etc.

yeah what he said.

4 inch turbo flow mufflers, similar to a coby, but instead of using perforated tube it uses cheese grater like tube that draws the gasses to the side of the chamber, instead of relying on the gas pressure to force the gas through the sides. the do not restrict the system as you can pick up the muffler and look right through it but two of those should get it down to 80 odd decibel

the rim a tyre beads to if it is steel can be widened, as it is stretched, for obvious reasons this can not be done to alloy. but why, it'd be cheaper just to buy new ones with the width, offset you want.

Ecu pinout: rb25det eccs control unit pin layout. 1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1 2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5 3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3 5 engine. A/T control input signal (bt1) 6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch) 7 Tacometeter speed signal 9 AC relay (AC cut signal) 10 Ground (ign signal system) 11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6 12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2 13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4 14 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt2) 15 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt3) 16 ECCS relay 18 fuel pump relay 19 Power steering switch 20 Ground (ignition signal system) 21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception) 22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit) 23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3) 24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6) 26 Air flow meter ground 27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal 28 Engine temp sensor 29 Exhaust gas sensor 30 Sensor ground (throttle sen, ENG temp) 31 clock (synchronization signal) 32 Monitor and check lamp (red) 38 Throttle opening output 41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal) 42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal) 43 Ignition switch START signal 44 Neutral switch 45 Ignition switch (IGN) 46 AC switch 47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation) 48 Throttle sensor power supply 49 Control unit power supply 50 Ground (control unit) 51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal) 52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal) 53 Vehicle speed sensor 54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection pt) 56 Throttle sensor output signal 57 Throttle valve switch power supply 58 Battery power supply 59 Control unit power supply 60 Ground (control unit) 101 Injector #1 103 Injector #3 104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output 105 Injector #2 107 Injector ground 108 Injector ground 109 Injector power supply 110 Injector #5 112 Injector #4 114 Injector #6 115 exhaust gas sensor heater ground 116 injector ground i think theres only a couple that link the auto trans ecu to the engine eccs system, i the only sensor the auto trans takes from is the TPS. "when to kick down a gear when in drive" is all it means"

sounds like a flogged bush, one question, have you lot lowered your cars???

meh.... ford, might aswell give hm a pushbike. my ole man still cant get over the fact my old 1987 rb30et still cains is BAxr6t

being in a valley in summer it can get 30 degrees C in winter more like 10 or 12C max on a fine day, over night lookin at -5 to -8.

thats because they run a fusable link single wire 2 plug type on the loom

it's not just the photo advertising for your site and potential customers, its also the opposite side of society, most people with serious performance cars dont exactly want pictures and or details of whats in posted every where to thieves to case out. a daily driver yes, there not much of a target, a standard skyline with just a kit and rims is what you should be looking for . not only that your posting up pics of cars you dont actually have (and most likley wont have in the near future) which would give the impression you have said car or similar for sale....false advertising. even the lambo and ferrari you got advertised on your site now arent exactly modified in anyway. standard rims etc why have modified jappas when you got those two there you could use for example.

1000+ or is that the t51r?

i would be keen to know what the top gear crew did to that m3 diesil they raced recently. it appeared to have alot of power and much more torque than its petrol version.

my p10 sedan sr20det 4wd if he is after the same handling and corner ability of a skyline but not the fuel bill a N14,SSS pulsar/ primera would be the one, readily avalible parts, easy to convert to turbo if the itch is there to do so. drivline options also can Fwd or 4wd. Sr20de/t the primera is a cheap initial purchase as it isnt seen as a "performance car" like its two door cousin or its bigger brother the skyline. , cheap to run and is way under it's potential as a performance car, the curb wieght is less than that of a gtir hatch aswell. the primera i originally picked up for 1600 dollars nz compared to the gtir below which craig picked up for 6 grand. the primera was originally only a sr20de 4wd but a thicker head gasket a cheap plug in play and secondhand turbo set up still didnt come to the cost of the gtir. mates gtir sr20det 4wd