nizmonut

being a gtr , if you have to ask pay some one to do, as i wouldnt want to give you wrong information that could cause possibly cause thousands of dollars of damage.

100 mls ride hieght to the lowest part of the chassis, not body kit, not exhaust pipe, not suspension components...chassi non adjustable coil overs are perfectly legal Platform Adjustable coil overs are not legal. two reasons 1: they can be lowered below 100ml's, fitted to a road legal car. 2: the spring rate can be stiffened beyond that which is suitable for road use. Camber adjustment plates are not legal as it requires the upper strut towers to be modified. castor adjusters are legal as they are a direct replacement item for what is already there. just looks bling bling. tyres, 1.5 mls of tread over 75% of the width of the tire, so for a 200/50/r16 tyre the amount of tread still needed that is 1.5 ml deep is 15o ml, so on a 225 tyre you must have atleast 168 mls of tread width that is atleast 1.5 mls deep.

yeah well im running 25w50 mobil 1 in my gtr and starts on the first cylinder to reach TDC, no knocks rattles, purrs beautifuly so yeah i guess so. and dont be fooled by the advertising of "synthetic" a federal court ruling allowed the oil companys to label highly refined mineral oil as synthetic.... so you dont always get what you pay for. make sure its says 100% fully synthetic as apposed to just synthetic

i think you will find the rattle and the crunch will dissapear if you have rices for breakfast instead of cornflakes, a snap crackle n pop from the exhaust is usually a good sign of a nice flowing exhaust, however in this case drop the gluten from the crankcase and run some thinner oil as obviously what is in there isnt protecting the mechanically moving bits on startup.

hmmm, when you block the recerc valve, the boost that would normally bypass back into the inlet pipe also helps to balance the pressure drop stopping bacl spool, the term back spool doesnt actually mean your turbo stops and starts going backward, the sound you hear from a backspooling turbocharger is the pressurized air between the throttle body and the turbo coming to a sudden halt having no where to go the turbo is forced to slow down and as it does the air starts creeping back out the way it came in, the shh shh shh shh you hear is the air pulsing backward then forward as the impeller balances itself back to a constant speed. while doing this the air between the turbo charger and the air flow meter is also moving backward and forward as two particles cant occupy the same space therefore creating a knock on effect back to the next lowest air pressure point which is inside the air box/ or inside the pod filter, the air flow meter measures air flow...not the direction it is going in, so if the air is pulsing back and forward for example four times or "shh shh shh shh" the air flow meter is measuring that air four times, so obviously the fuel load is going to be four times what it should be.... this is what causes the engine to stall/cough and splutter.... this is also why, when you dump the air back to the atmosphere on a standard skyline system it will also stall/cough splutter as the ecu has already allocated a certain amount of fuel for the already measured air, dumping that air causes richness, dumping 14 pounds per sqaure inch of air for example will likley cause an engine using a recirculated system to stall.

need a better decription of a "crunch" dude... example is it similar to some one standing on a aluminium coke can or like some one scrunching up a chippie packet,or someone crunching first gear??????? could be the starter motor drive not retracting quickly enough on start up cause the lithium grease on the shaft is cold and thick?? who knows.

different as in injectors coils and sensors plugs or different as in ecu dash board plug end? depends on the year it was made, there were differences between the 89 to 93 R32 looms and sensors, may be best to swap all the sensors over aswell.

nah if its running fine up to 5500 rpm it wont be plugs or fuel, if it was either of those it would be coughing and spluttering right through the rev range, but will need a few questions answered before being able to tell what it is causing it, is the afm still ok, have you swapped it with that of another car? is the car running standard boost. if it had a z32 on it was the setup outflowing the standard afm? if so take the boost back down to standard. R33, variable timed yes, is the solenoid still operational that lets oil flow to the lifters????? the ecu alters fuel values when the system is activated by the rpm, flooding perhaps and detonating violently? if so unplug the O2 sensors and leave them off for the time being as the ecu would be compensating for the richness, also unplug the ecu temp sensor, this will force the ecu to go into normal operation as if the engine had warmed up. is the base timing correct, assuming it was running a aftermarket ecu, afm, etc was this altered at all?

while i was searching for an answer to your problem it occuored to me that the magnets on the needle of the cluster still use 12 volts, regardless of whether it is a standard skyline cluster or not, which means that a standard speedo drive would under drive the needle giving the incorrect speed, also hence why the hicus is having issues because the speed is saying one thing yet the sensors at each hub are giving conflicting information. the reason i say this the early nismo gtr's had 260kph speedo's not 320kph like the later gtr's, mines a november 92 gtr and has 260 on the clock. i suspect the speedo cluster you have there is for the v spec model.

so since the four doors have more sway your saying the 2 doors handle better, the last time i looked new zealands drift champ was driving a 4 door. dont confuse the comparison with a gtr, the only diff is the fact ones a coupe and ones a four door. i have found that 9 times out of ten i can full lock drift, with out feeling the rear of the car wanting to overtake the front, the gtr was very uneasy, as i hate HICAS, but now handles just aswell since ive had it removed

sorry to pop your little balloon there buddy but i hope you had the foresight to get all the sensors aswell? if not those are pretty much paperwieghts as none of them will be acurate as the sr16ve sr20de rb sensors all give out differing readings. the nizmo cluster you'd be better off selling to whom it would be useful, i.e. a r33 owner.

vk commodore also competed in le mans as well, came first in its class.

the fact the shell is 2/3rds the curb wieght of commie 1280kgs vers 1860 kgs.

dont do what i did and weld tanks to a cut down mack truck radiator like i did the intercooler. the only time it gets up to temp is doing circle work at the local burnout pad, the minute it gets a wiff of air flow it cools better than my dads double door Maytag fridge/freezer. lol ended up removing the coolant temp circut from the ecu completley as it would constantly run rich

it shouldnt matter what turbo you have on there, due to the fact it is the AFM that measures the air flow and inputs the correct duration the injectors are open for. just because you have changed turbo's doesnt mean it will run more boost than your old one did...unless you make it ofcourse......i.e.....waste gate actuator..... factory ecu will boost cut at 16 psi on a rb20det, the fuel pump can handle that, really all you need to do is get a better fuel pressure regulator so it isnt really the issue here, take the cat off and smash the center out of it, and put it back on, i think you may find that is the issue. especially if you had to change your turbo cause the old one was shagged.

ones a series one and the others a series 2

atleast ya wouldnt have to tub it to fit drag slicks

how bout just stickin the gtr front centre and rear diff, housings and all in the gts4???

oh...start by taking the ac out..theres 15 kw right there.

just read a 400 post thread on another forum about these engines........verdict...no one really had expierence with these and a big power rb30det to compare.

dude most big turbo's lag till around 3500, the 28 will only really reduce this issue slightly compared to your current turbo(for example 28's are a replacement turbo for 300zx's) 1.5 litres per turbo...going backwards really. if your after more response maybe look at a forward facing plenum chamber, similar to what you see on gtr's, also to improve the turbo response from what you have invest in a stainless steel exhaust mainfold, this will help with exhaust gas flow and will reduce lag also a aftermarket ecu would greatly improve the power curve. the cooler you can keep your engine and its associated bolt ons the better, and the longer your turbo will last. so a oil cooler wouldn't go amiss either. cams and cam gears are another good one, this can increase the torque down low for more engine generated power rather than turbo induced power. the combination of free flowing manifolds cam's and ecu will most likley be of more benefit to your responsiveness then just a turbo by itself. it's up to you ofcourse, its your car and your money but from expierence(owner of nine vl commies including a walky and a HDT brocky) the idea's ive listed above will be of more benefit in the long run as these will allow for big power figures later when you do want to change turbo's. oh and a foot note, read up on the rb30/25det engine conversion threads...this will greatly improve response and take your vl calias back up to its 3 litre capacity, Shouldn't have any issues mot wise. my gts4 is running a rb30/26det conversion and is producing 210hp at all four wheels just as the turbo is coming on boost, once in the sweet spot its 401 at all four @8 psi....engine work first 747 boeing later. good luck

hmmm 10 dollars says that holden will make a v8 version, bathurst n all, public demand will deem it fiscally viable option.

naah id get a lime green one to match your bikini. then park it beside my midnight blue 350kw@allfour gtr and wine red 600kw@allfour gts4

yeah i was try concieve sticking a two stroke V24 cylinder 30 litre engine in my r32 gts4? oh that white piece in the middle of the locomotive...that to allow for chassi flex, theres two of those motors in there, 48,000 ft pnds of torque 12, 000 horse

i got a green sticker(defect notice) for another 6 months our laws are pretty lax ...then come jan 1 09 we using your guys emmisions laws.....but then thats only on new imports the existing ones only have to come in under 95 decibels. existing cars dont have a emissions test, just a decibel reading, they can be defected if they are excessivley smokey so to answer your question...side exit dump pipes yes...... exccesive noise no.