nizmonut

ebay or see www.trademe.co.nz theres a guy importing greddy forward facing plenums for rb20/25's there 900 odd nz dollars a piece.

heed to the people who have gone before you. it makes life very easy when you learn and take on board expierences from other people.

the engine ecu are identical, just make sure if you are running a manual box get the ecu that was from a manual skyline same for auto as the ecu that runs the auto trans requires inputs from the engine ecu that has the auto bolted to it..

lol twin plate clutch + daily driving = idiot. sheesh of course its going to be abitch to drive in traffic, wait till you wanna dog box then start moaning

reading above thread dude, no offence but it is a relitivley simple job involving a twelve ml socket and common sense pay someone in the know a box of beer on a saturday avo.

water pump pulley or similar rubbing on covers?

2582 not big enuf, 4088 not big enuf, t51r kai. bonnet wont close.

yeah wouldnt mind one for the gts4 but its kind'a too battle star galactica for my liking.

this is a brilliant example of what i like to call halfassedmotorsport....stop being a cheap ass and go buy the damn king springs. sheesh.

the gear ratios are the same , the casing is the same, it is the final drive in the diffs that are different. . the difference is the heavier synchromesh and engaugement in the gtr box, heavier bearings and input shaft. they are even the same internals as the nissan patrol. you should use google more often . dude anything from a gtr, ceffee, laurel patroleven the ld28 diesil pressureplates match up just use the rb30 clutch plate, also to a rb30 powered vl commodore, birds of a feather so to speak , sont be too fussed all these will fit

yeah they are auto's after all, not exactly the quickshifting responsive cogswappa that' you'd get from a manual, however the advantage here is the auto box design hasnt changed since 1987 so go grab a vl box or A31 ceffee box if the (skyline markup) is too much, after all there only slushboxes.

. yeah just a little under 900 at all four wheels and losing traction. how bout yourself? oh and cooldude1000...the spanner you need at the momment is a size suitable for you.....6 millimeter au't to do it...it'll have to do cause i dont have one smaller that you can borrow. .........noob.

the difference in the R32 gts4 was 891 @all four and 690 @ rw dur to lack of traction. so its debatable. what the loss would be through the transfer, for the earlier gtrs and gts4's id say 20% of motor out put and for the latter lodels 10 to 15% and for the new 2007-8 gtrs the difference is less than 10 kw for the new R35 skylines regardless of the power out put.

r32's dont have boost solenoids, only wastegate actuators and air bypass valves which are both vacum activated and both leak like a b*tch after a few years of being fitted to one of the worlds hottest running turbo engines. anyway to answer your question....clamp the bypass valve hose and go for a drive, if it doesnt drop get a new air bypass valve, do the same to the wastegate actuator, go and look at a mates actuator, study the condition etc etc.

honestly dude . go for a silver top from a 89 to 97 r32, A31 or c33, much cheaper then keeping that museum piece on the road

wow.drift spec....do you now get full lock with smoke or still use hand brake? bling factor .0.

change the ignitior pack. spark get's weak after a while. if the problem still exists just go straight for wasted spark system and drop the direct fire completley

change the ignitior pack. spark get's weak after a while.

i pulled this of our car club site here in nz So you got yourself a pretty mint skyline, it seem to run pretty well when you took it for a test drive, but sooner or later you get that distinctive d-d-d-d-ddd when you stomp on the gas when launching of the lights. i've owned a few rb powered vehicals now and out of all the problems that have accured along this fabled path i have chosen , there is nothing worse then annoying detonation. the number one reason for Detonation is the fuel choice , ALL skylines when made in japan were factory tuned to run on a MINIMUM of 100 RON or Octane fuel. In new zealand unless your running aviation fuel or similar the popular pump supply is 91, 95, or 98 if your at BP. what happens here is the ecu doesnt know its been shipped 15000 miles accross the pacific to a land of low grade fuel so it assumes its controlling the air fuel ratio containing 100 octane. the higher the octane, the better the burn, the cleaner the burn, less effort to burn, so your engine runs cooler. when your filling up with 91 for example the octane rating is 9 points below the average (which is huge in fuel terms) and the ecu measures air accordingling letting the injectors squirt in fuel to match, only problem now is your air fuel ratio is up a certain creek without a paddle. hence the knock sensors detect something aint happening right and retard the timing...for the simpltons for the knowledge seekers....the engine is burning low grade fuel leaving carbon build up in the bore and on the pistons, this reignites and creates hot spots on the piston head the ignites fuel before it is supposed to.... in turn the piston is fighting an uphill battle to compress an explosion.....this is detonation... in order to reduce this effect the ecu can and will retard the timing... but no where near enough to run properly on 91 octane fuel. the best solution here is to increase your radiators capacity, remove the thermostat, hard wire an electric fan to support the viscous fan. then run as higher octane that is avalible. the cooler you can get your motor the less chance of hot spots forming in the combustion chamber... Secondly, the other commonly occouring form of detonation in an rb motor is directly related to the coil packs. for all you budding drifters, sliders, and skidders out there,, ever done the mean as burnout popping the rear bags, driven home. thinking all is well, to get up the next day and your liners detonating....yeah dont deny it, it happens to the best of us..... this is due to what follows.... you cook your tyres on the spot, but while your doing that your engines gettin bugger all airflow, it gets hot to, the coils nesting in a nice little row in between the cam covers are baking at around 100 or so degrees, the ceramic/ plastic casing surrounding them heats up as the heat sink cant keep them cool enough. they expand slightly, then when they cool down, hairline cracks start forming in them. thus, no longer insulating the ignition charge from the metal around them, earthing out before it reaches the pointy end of the NGK's... you engine misfires due to lack of spark, the fuel sits in the cylinder for another turn to ignite, and of course if theres hot spots in there from when you do your next big sustained rpm launch it's going to do what has been described above.,, dont fork out for another set of coils just yet , there is a little trick. take your coils out of the engine, individually rap the bottom of each coil with electrical tape, or cover them in a non conductive glue or resin. alternatley you can buy bosh coil packs and mount them on the inner gaurd and run HT leads to the spark plugs(recommended as it keep s them cooler). -------------------- Officer"I didnt realize these things went that fast do you know what speed you we're doing?" Driver"Sorry Officer i don't, the clock only goes up to 240kph." .. i dont know hwy people keep posting new threads about missfires and skylines ifs all ways one of poor spark caused by breakdown of ignition module's coils etc etc wiring .

idealy the compression stroke of a shock wants to be equal to that of the expansion stroke, this situation you would find in an offroader or rally car as the amount of travel required is extreme compared to lets say a road going car that may only need 1.5 to 3 inches up and down 3 to 6 inches in total. i would give you a generic description of how to set up sports suspension but it varies so much between types it hard to find a ideal setup by just telling you. for example in a rear wheel drive drag racer, you'd want stiff extension stroke on the rear to keep the back end down on launch but opposite on the front you'd want stiff compression but alot of expansion pressure to lift the nose of the car and shift the wieght onto the rear driving wheels for traction in a front wheel it would be opposite to above ina four wheel you would want a balanced chassis that wouldnt lift in the front and bog the rear down, you'd keep the wieght balanced on all four. ideally all four corners would have the same shocks however the spring rate on the front would be higher than the rear to compensate for the engine wieght in a circut car the amount of travel in suspension is minimal to stop body roll so 1.5 inches compression/extension max that will give you 3 inchs over the whole width of a vehicals track. the adjustable platform suspension is to lift or lower ride hieght, also the purpose of adjustable springseats is not to preload the spring to keep it trapped for you MOT check, it is there to load spring rate in order to stop body roll side to side...circut and back to front drag racing as above the spring rate required in the rear of a drag car would be almost half that of the front to let the rear sqaut down shifting the centre of gravity further back in the car. the spring rate determines how much wieght it take to overcome the pressure of the spring before it starts compressing. the heavy the car and the more corner work the car has to do you would want a higher spring rate.

take the rocker covers off, both of them, then turn it over and watch the cam shafts, 10 bucks says you gotta snapped cam shaft, also it will between cylinders 1 and 2 and probably the intake cam.

engine diagrams are identical gtst/4 the see this thread, contact the member for a copy of the manual on cd.

block work, its always the block work. good luck with your goal, and lay off the takeaways cause you gonna need the money lol.

read up on wasted spark before you splashing out on new coils dude. its a good alternative as is immune to the issues the direct fire coils are suseptable to.

yeah, agreed, wait till ya see the s13 in the nz drift series.... looks like some one works at the kitchen studio down town......