nizmonut

the idea of rev limiters and tachometer shift lights go hand in hand, when you change gears you want the engine rpm to fall back right into the middle of the power/torque area when the motor is just at its peak power levels...(where the hp and trq curves meet/intersect or are closest to each other...within reason of course) for example the dyno sheet below for my gts4 the sweet spot is 5150rpm, theoretically i would want the engine rpms when changing up to drop back to anywhere between 4200 and 5300 rpm. for example if a rb engine bolted to a manual box drops 1100 rpm between 2nd gear to 3rd gear the ideal shift time would be 5000 to 5500 rpm to get the maximum amount of power when accelerating. this is a rb3026det freshly rebuilt for drift, mildly tuned @8psi so there's not really any call to go over 7000 rpm, and even then you only want to go past 6000 once in top gear.

i havent tried yet, but the cop heard me coming from the other end of the manawatu gorge.<<<N.Z. about 15 kms away .

hmm rb24? stroked bored rb20 block? can't really help you there. have to find some one with the same hieght block.

lol 95, try 148. lol 3 inch dump into 4 inch straight pipe.

most engines will peak 8000rpm, but you gotta ask why when most engines regardless of type make there power under 7000rpm????

id swap my skyline for a v6 twin turbo torana anyday. lol. no actually, if i were to buy a new car id chose the torana over a v35.

yea, your probably better off saving and getting one thats all sweet under the hood. as for wrecked ones, due to the age its probably better off been stripped for parts? can i get the gear box pleeeeassse. lol

2jz 1uzfe? wtf go join starlet central, this is a skyline forums. stop swearing lol.

start with forged internals? billet rods crank, oversized bearings, the block work, honning,oil gallery's have to behiflowed to the head, yet a smaller restrictor has to be fitted sounds odd you might think? i assure you it is neccassary, then theres the oil pump, you going to need a bigger one than whats in there, you ll need to gate the sump, have the fly, crank, harmonic balancer rebalanced, blueprint everything for that nice 10 000 sustained burnout without throwing a rod out the side. heavier conrod bolts, grab the craddles form a gtr block, then theres the heavy duty head bolts to think about and thats just the bottom end, there goes 10 grand right there then theres the head, the hiflow, port polish, valve guides, new seals , magnesium fill valves valve springs , retaners springs hats , buckets, cam shafts, head compression, not to mention new plenum chamber, exhaust extractors and flange gaskets you going to go through because of the lumpy idle it will have keeps working the joins. theres another 7 to 10 grand if your serious about it. then theres the auxilarys, you gonna need a four core radiator to keep it all below 110 degrees, along with a couple of good qaulity oil coolers, breather catch can that can hold atleast 2 litres with a drain back and one way valve to the sump. you cant use direct fire coils anymore cause they keep frying with an idle of 2500, theres the wasted spark system, another couple of grand the aftermarket ecu to run those lumpy cams, 3000 dollars including the hours of dyno time just to get it all running let along making big power.... then you ll need a decent clutch, with a couple of extra drive shafts and 7 spare gearboxes(thasts how many i went thru anyway) then theres the breathing, you running 14.1 compression by this stage and need atleast a 90 ml throttle body...if not two... dude by the time this is finished you might aswell buy a gtr, thats what i did. ''good luck" ill help ya burn ya money.

i think you may find and it is a pretty general rule of thumb anywhere in the world, but when complying any vehical all saftey devices must be "as new" ie tyres, brakes, seat belts, air bags, no crash damage, lights, frontal impact area regulations,

i think thats a unanamous desicion...the f*cked turbo seals gotta go.

if your keen the only part of the drive train you'd have left from the gts4 are the outer shafts and hubs, or you could pump the gaurds and make it a 4 door gtr.

had ctjet sweating there for a minute

3 plastic plugs under the grill, one under each indicator, one screw at each side (top of the arch) 3 on the under side of the front bar (directly below the 3 that where under the grill) to pull the indiacators you'll need a phillips screw driver, pop the hood and where the headlight meets the gaurd you'll a small plastic tap moulded from the housing of each indicator lense. undo those and pull the indicators directly forward.

at a wreckers yard where they belong...

yeah as above for the bolt, however the harmonic balancer it self is another thing pack the hole with grease, get a tight fitting piece of steel(or another bolt that will take up the area of the hole) grab a hammer and slam the bolt, the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and push the balancer off, or ya could stop being a cheap a*sand just get a harmonic balancer puller from super cheap for 20 bucks

as it goes theres no substitute for cubic inches.

undo the sparkies, and crank the motor over by hand a couple of revolutions, then do it by key, as above, water will not compress. all it will do in that situation is bend a conrod. step two check the oil make sure it isnt mayonaise looking , if it is you have your self a blown head gasket/buckled or cracked head. step three pull all the relays outta the box and dry them check all the fuses etc check the starter motor wires, ensure all plugs are connected.... leave your battery on charge overnight, while thats happening gap your spark plugs down to .8. it will make them easier to ignite with a weak spark. give em a clean aswell...... when the battery is charged chuck it back in leave the key in the ON position Undo the CAS and give it a turn, you should hear the injectors start clicking and within a few turns if your listening you'll hear the fuel pump, start. if it wont fire pull the first spark plug out along with the coil and rest it on the plenum crank it over and watch for the spark numbers 2345 and 6 are not important, number one coil has the sensor wire on it that tells the ecu to start its ignition sequence, as long as number one is firing the rest will fire. if you have spark but still wont run pull the fuel pump relay and crank it over, undo the return fuel hose from the fuel rail. The hose with fuel filter inline and stick it in a bottle. plug the relay back in (after swapping it with another relay) and turn the key on..... if you get fuel in the bottle you may have an airlocked fuel rail. place hose back on and undo the fuel pressure reg (front end) and repeat proccess untill fuel flows with out air bubbles.

yeah there the same chassis floor pan trim design wise just different textures in areas, the only real difference was the 91-92 model had different chassi structure in it to meet new frontal impact regulations.

looks like a dropped pie after a hard night at the pub.

any tyre that last's longer than fourth gear.

1890 not including viscous fan or drive shaft yoke

1 undo the temp gauge sender unit get a tester and put the end of it in boiling water and see if the resistance drops to near 0. 2 change the thermostat, could be jammed open or not working at all(broken) 3 the temp gauge sender is seperate to the ecu temp gauge sender so if one is faulty the the other still gives correct reading. also it usually the 2 pin ecu sender unit that gets shagged not the single pin earth type.(the heat contraction cracks the base of the plug over time) 4 most na skylines will get 12.5 litres per 100km's while turbo'd is 14.5 litres per 100km's (factory) 5 the viscous fan might be shagged and not slipping at higher then idle rpm cooling the radiator too much. any one of these really.

*&%^ &&% you %&$*(#( deserve $%$*and make us look like you. .lmao. wouldnt get the peoples choice awards, but 10/10 for effort.

lets play spot the power steer reservior....