nizmonut

lol, ive never met such a bunch of anti fog light bungee smugling cop hating blood boiling wankers. there just lights. next time it happens the usual line would be sorry officer i must have bumped the switch...considering on R32's the driving light switch is right there next to the head light switch....

just to clarify as it is late here and i have been working on my gtr powered gts4 most of the day..... aforementioned post was for turboedsloth, it was he that asked for idea's parameter's to best suit his rb20det not his dream car powered by a rb26dett. stating the obvious. yes i would hope all tb's are larger than comp cover outlet.....i'm sure i said ..... "smallest restriction AFTER the turbo charger" when i said ''reducer from the turbo to the IC'", common sense would dictate one turn's it around to create a flare. however when i said "hot side of the intercooler" common sense would apply again...to reduce his 3 inch intercooler outlet down to the tb's 2.75 inch diameter. ....viscosity is fluid.....velocity is speed....

i have faith in this project.... if they can shoe horn a gtr drive train into a Vl Calias they can shove one in a silvia.

you want reliable results stay on the same dyno, every dyno reads differentley depending on the age of the machine and even the gauge of wiring they are using. the best mod you can ever do to a RB motor is a remap or better still a aftermarket ecu, gap the plugs to .8 and you can run 12 psi all day long at 15 deg atdc.

your piping only need be the same size as the smallest restriction after the turbo charger....ie why go 3 inch when your throttle body is 2.75....it ain't gonna fit thru there any faster by using 3 inch..... not only that the hotter the air the more it expands so in theory you would want to compress it a little the cooler it got....in theory so say 3 inch from turbo to cooler means one reducer off the turbo.. then go from 2.75 off the cool side of the intercooler to the throttle body , so two reducers one on the turbo and one after the intercooler will keep the air flowing at its optimum rate given what you have descibed....sorry. i studied all this bs for a science exam...never thought id need it. may i add you may have trouble gettin the 3 inch pipe up, overbetween the radiator fan and the cam cover....having to trim the fan blades a little.

considering most A31 C33 R32 2 and 4 door cars share the same fire wall and floor pan the R34 2 and 4 door and stagea share the same firewall and floor pan to behind the rear axle the optimum zorst is one with least restriction....i.e Drain pipe

lets not forget a map sensor for all you Afm boys and girls out there. .....initial cost of the exercise for a 1 or 2 kilowatt gain....it's a little impractical

its all in the timing and tuning, get some adjustable cam gears....assuming you mean non adjustable cam gears not non adjusted adjustable cam gears. ...(not cheap ones the screws rattle loose),......does that make sense???????????????????? and then go back for a full tune( assuming its a aftermarket ecu/piggyback?) if not you'll be better off with one of those too.

it is four wheel drive 4 door , i dont concider it to be awd as i have an in dash switch that caters to the requirements of a drifter.

one question comes to mind. how many km's has your car done.....remembering that in japan most cars regardless of who makes them spend more time stuck in traffic then actually driving. my autech Gtr version 4 had only done a supposive 65 000 kms ..... you would assume being a 1993 R32 it would have only come out of the shed for a saftey check and maybe a fang every christmas. but no upon pulling it to bits the mechanic told me the engine appeared like it had done closer to 250'000 kms. after a block change to a newly rebuilt rb30(thats how badly worn the 26 block was) it went from a meassily 212 kw @ all four to 287 kw @ all four. big difference a fresh block can make. granted it was 400 cc bigger as the dyno guy said. but 400cc wont give you that bigger difference by itself.

had similar issues with my 32, rb26det, when we changed the turbo to a garrett 3582 external it was out flowing the stock afm and would start spluttering as the injectors went full duty. it would be okay till about 3500 4000 rpm then would run like dogs balls. we lenghthened the intake pipe from turbo to afm, changed the afm to a z32 and had a fitting for the recirc valve plumbed to it facing directly back into the impeler on the turbo and solved the issue. you should at least get on a rolling road and get it tuned properly. it was worth it in my case anyway.

here we go found the specs on it. i got the rb26dett version from autech. Autech Nissan Skyline 26 R32 4 This is a strange one. A non-turbo 4 door Skyline with an RB26DE engine. Yes not a typo. 188 Units were produced all with automatic transmission and all in the same colour (paint code JK0). Sold for more than twice as much as the GTS-t (Type M) of the time but with less power. Power: 220ps (164kw) at 6600rpm Torque: 25.0kg/m (245Nm) at 5200rpm Bore x stroke: 86x73.7mm Displacement: 2568cc Compression ratio: 10.5:1 Front brakes: 4 piston 296mm ventilated rotors Rear brakes: 2 piston 292mm ventilated rotors Wheels: 16" Tyres: Bridgestone Expedia S-01 205/55R16 88v Dimensions: Length: 4580mm Width: 1695mm Height: 1360mm Weight: 1480kg

thats it exactly. theres a guy here in NZ who used a rb30 block, R33 vvt 24 valve head 2.5 liter, four core radiator, some lumpy cams an after market ecu, larger injectors, fuel reg , and larger fuel pump. rebuilt the bottom end fly wheel , twin plate clutch , custom drive shaft etc shoved it in a 1985 toyota hilux of all things.... used to go nutz az, it would spend all day at the track happily going between 2000 and 9000 rpm(wouldnt idle any lower) it got dyno'd at 295 kw @the rear wheels before it started slipping on the rolling road. (more than my rb20det was at the time) dude used a 1987 vl 5 speed(7 of them before getting a hollenger dog box ) and a ford nine inch diff full custom mounts, even went to the trouble of shoving the entire R33 interior B pillar forward into the cab of this ute had the dash retrimed and door cards etc all fitted, moved the hand brake down to the tunnel, installed the entire dash loom along with the ecu and it loom, instrument cluster etc. including the power window set up lol it was virtually a rb30 blocked R33 gts in ute form. actually. from memory i think nissan did build a n/a rb26... it was in a top end gloria early 90's???????? any one care to google it.

newspaper, masking tape, some left over automotive paints, a compressor and a spray gun, ...i think the dearest part was the bourbon afterwards.

the fuel line with the fuel filter should go to the rear of the motor, the return line should come out of the reg at the front rail.. the easiest way to distinguish these........ the fuel pressure reg is always the highest point of the fuel system as not to air lock the fuel rail. this is where your return line should go. sounds like basic stuff i know but it never hurts to check the cooler piping again, i checked mine four times before i found the leak cause my engine to hunt.

you could always go something other than appliance white?

i have to agree, i was sceptic about the change to d2 coil overs come dyno time, but was not the case, you should replaceyour shocks every 30,000 kms anyway, thats about a year of driving for a normal car. but suspension can change the whole nature of a car, it can go from a almost sponge like drive for a 18 year old r32 to a drift car spec over night with as little as 2K if you know the right guy's. for staight line drag stocks just ok but not cornering.

sounds like the exhaust turbines lost a few blades.

then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.