nizmonut

DAMN FOOL!!! get some nutz!!!! go buy some forgies retard the timing and run av gas.

front facing plenum on a rb20 wont benefit the motor, you better off spending 180 on a wasted spark ignition system 70 on a good oil cooler some adjustable cam gears up and over intercooler kit with a good size front mount this will benefit your gtst better then any front facing plenum

yeah the 3s alright, i never had any issues with them. ensure both cam pulleys are set to 0 degrees and install them like you would normally if you were putting a new cam belt on on your factory pulleys are dimples on the front of one tooth that is supposed to line up with the marks on the rear cam pulley cover. use the 0 degree mark as the dimple and install however the one you have there looks like it is for a 4gze or the front intake cam on a R33 vvl head. not a rb20

i could understand if one wheel came off...but that....somebody needs a redbull

what about a rb30e powered holden rodeo with a gts4 auto box with a top mount intercooler? oh and the "legal" side exit exhaust under the door sill rail. this is what i use to tow my skidder to the drifts

probably a combination of both, those factory turbo's last about as long as the time the engines due for a rebuild. give or take a few 1000 k's it doesnt cost much to give a block a hone and face or the bearing's either, it's the turbo that is going to set you back. if it is the turbo seal you have to remember the longer it is driven the more oil it is going to spill down the exhaust, so it is a compounding factor that it will only smoke more as the oil builds up in the exhaust, even after you have found and fixed the issue you may find the smoke is still there for a few days untill the oil is burnt out of the system

www.ripsltd.co.nz Rob ward Rotorua Import Pro Shop if you want serious power you should get in contact with these guys, the last car they just completed was 800 horse at all four wheels for a U.K. customer pulled a 9.8 on its first run and base tune from memory was on performance car tv here a few weeks ago. they specialize in big powered road legal and outright race rb engines and do alot of custom work aswell. it's on his web site but for around 20 grand au you can have a rb30dett 4wd drop straight in garrunteed to make 750 at the wheels(4wd) minimum. and can ship pretty much anywhere. spend some on a good ecu and a tune and you ll have yourself potentionally the quickest street legal car in aussie.

oh and by the way the vl commodore was realeased in europe as a 2 door coupe badged an opel/vauxhall carlton in 1987. same thing rb30de just 2 doors. they stuck with the nissan engine up to the 89/90 model because the emissions were better than the buick 3.6 litre and produce similar power. from euro car evaluation site 1987 If the thought of driving a 3L Vauxhall Senator only brings to mind that music from ITV's The Bill, then you've probably not driven one. These cars have to be one of the most under-rated vehicles on the used market and good late ones still fetch strong money. opel's biggest car was never a huge seller, though its smaller-engined relation, -->>the Carlton<<--, enjoyed more success. In its seven-year lifetime, just over 8,000 examples of the second generation Carlton were sold, so used examples are not exactly thick on the ground nowadays. But they’re well worth seeking out for their effortless ability and high performance. History The second generation Carlton was only ever available as a two-door coupe and served as Vauxhall's sports vehical, replacing a model of the same name in September 1986. First models to be launched were the 2.0 and 2.5-litre versions both were N/A. These were called Carlton 2.0, Carlton 2.5 and later the Carlton 3.0 . A 24-valve version of the RB30e engine arrived in September 1988 and this car (badged GT) remained as the top model until the end of Carlton production. A 2.6-litre engine replaced the Carlton 2.5 in September 1990 and a CD version of the same car then superseded the original 2.6-litre (standard-spec) model in October 1992. Opinion Lots and lots of standard equipment, superb handling and roadholding, a car that doesn't look half as fast as it is and an absolute bargain that looks set to hold its value. Even the basic 2.6 has automatic transmission, anti-lock brakes were standard on all models from October 1988 and many 3.0-litre cars have air conditioning. The 24-valve cars have leather upholstery as well, though some may have cloth seats specified instead (it was a no-cost option). i wish they had realeased the rb30de and rb26de in good ole nz, oh sorry about the blurb above, the point of the whole lot is. its probably going to be cheaper to get one of the old rb30's from europe rather than from half way around the world. the aforementioned model 26 and 30 could only be bought second hand as it was a government police pursuit vehical only not for general sale to the public brand new.

you can pick up a rb30 long block for anywhere from 90 dollars nz to 300 bucks for a complete rb30e still running, hell find a vl commie with a manual in it you can pick the whole damn car up for anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars nz

dude......R.I.P.S........need i say more.

on the back of the intake chamber (nearest end to the fire wall) is a brown two pin plug and a purple two pin plug. on the forums here on how remove/clean/reinstall this device. get your spark plugs gapped down to .8 or when it goes for the service get them to put in new ones gapped to .8 not 1.1 dont be particular i have run platnum/ iridium bosch and ngk and i have found 5 dollar ngk's do the same job. check all your vaccum lines for cracks and deteriation, over time they get brittle, may look ok but leak like a mo'fo. i had a similar sound coming from my car when the engine change was done, the heater hose was airlocked as for GODZLR, check your pcv valve, undo it plug the hole and start the car up. if the rattle aint there the spring in the pcv valve is screwed.

strip the block and take it to an engine rebuilder who's familiar with the rb head conversions....the reason i say this is so they know that the block they are refacing is going to be under more pressure than it originally was. like in my case they bored the main bearing tunnel and polished back the crank while balancing it..... used oversize bearings they bores we're still within factory spec after 350,000 kms but but the pistons looked shagged so they went in favour of forgies. with a regrind down the bores aswell. this is why ya dont buy ya bearings till the engine rebuilder has told ya what needs doing to it....saves running round town wasting time.

yeah i tried telling some one else here that... the rb's VVL is variable valve lift.... not variable cam advancement/retardment, it is not like a honda vtec. under each cam lobe is a hydraulic lifter that acts like a mini hydraulic ram expanding and contracting depending on the oil pressure and how much oil the ecu lets flow via the solenoid controlling it. on a normal non vvl rb these hydraulic lifters are replaced by normal solid buckets. when this occours it creates more lift increasing the airflow around the valves as it enters the combustion chamber.

that will be one kick ass machine once she's going properly, would look good with a group A kit/ whel arch flares on it with a set of fat rubber. it would be worth holding onto if the body's in ok condition.

Question's you should ask of yourself? what size are standard gtr injectors what duty cycle do standard injectors run at and can these be improved by changing ecu's alone for example take my gts4 it is running an aftermarket ecu, a after market single turbo, exhaust, and fmic, this car was a parts project i had stuff left from other cars i have had. so taking into account it has a RB30e block rb26det head with a single TB intake of similar flow to a standard sixTB intake. it was dyno's at 401 hp at all four wheels reached at 6350rpm torque 388 reached at 5100 rpm, considering the valve train cams cam gears are standard the stock 440cc injectors were at 86% duty cycle at peak rpm. will nizmo's 550cc injectors make that bigger difference, why not go 740cc and reduce the duty cycle because come 400 horse any one will tell you that eventually you will want more. then those nizmos will not be far off redundant either. i think you will find you are paying alot for the brand name, go bosch, i cant claim to know what prices they charge for them there in aussie but ill bet on it the 740cc's are cheaper then the nizmo 550's ps. i think the standard turbo's @ 1 bar will be struggling. anything over that you can kiss your ceramic goodbye on its way down the tail pipe.

it might seem like a dum question, but when you started for the first time did you take the oil cap off and make sure the cam lobe you can see from there had oil on it???? was the correct seal used on the N1 oil pump? cause if a breaker bar wont turn it over you have either got A: a siezed motor B: a dropped valve or C: dropped a big end cap? but from what you described above i wouldnt be surprised if the main bearings have spun and it the cradle pressure clamping the crankshaft. good luck with that one bro, i feel for ya... atleast when mine stopped going you new what was wrong with it cause number 3 piston was hanging outta the block.

Any model of nissan that came with a rb motor in it, just make sure you get the correct cross member to go with it. ie laurel, vl commodore, cefiro, skyline, 88 to 98 i think the question should be what gear box will fit your car model. as any rb box will bolt to any rb motor, etc your best bet if you've blown your box is go to the wreckers and pick up an auto box for the time being, you will get one really cheap....even if its a 50$ job from a VL commodore for the time being...then save up hard and get new, stronger gears, and box rebuild straight cut gears these should set you back a 1000 dollars or so but you will never break it again and also the box will then be a selling point of the car. i would say dog engagment but these are really expensive... two reasons for the straight cut teeth is the two cogs have a more contact surface area, and arent herlical, they will be noisey but this will be normal....that is the whole reason car manufacturers make the gears herlical as it reduces the noise from the drive train and makes for a smooth transition between gear changes...... also because the cogs have straight cut teeth the cogs can be narrower but stronger than standard, the upside to this is the sinchro's can be thicker/stronger. snchro ring gears are seperate from the cog itself giving the gearshift the smooth interchange you feel, letting the gear you are selecting catch up to the speed of the engine matching the teeth to engage correctly. dog engagement is where two pins engage each gear and only spin about 240 degrees then lock that is why you can shift without using the clutch once you are moving because the "dog's" lock onto the gear as you select it once locked the teeth on the cogs are matched, then all you have to do is dump the clutch or let it do its thing while rolling. ask any race car driver, this is why the gear stick almost gets ripped out of your hand if your not onto it. this is where the term DOGBOX comes from, the down side to this is driveability, it's like driving a normal car with a twin plate clutch....you'll get used to it, knocking it out of gear while the box is under load at the traffic lights for example is a no no because you will crunch it to get it back in first, make sure the car is stopped with the clutch in full then move it also the advantage to this is having straight cut teeth the shafts wont have as much sideways force and therefore less stress on the bearings and case of the box.

ill contact NASA and ask for a GPS location on the reentry point.

eventually your viscous dif is going to give up the ghost it's just a matter of time, go with a mechanical lsd cusco or along with those lines.....factory lsd's arent that great anyway, i tore my factory lsd to shreds the first day at the track. you couldn't go much later with the R33 series as the R34 series coming was the talked about thing come 1997.

rb747dett lol.....

dude, are you awake, those 1987 holden commodores are lighter than a r32 nissan skyline, my question is why go 25 when for 5 g you could go rb26dett?

cheers for the extra pics craved, i lost mine not long after doing the conversion.

rip every poor flamin mongrel off!!! what!!! sheesh.

ok here's what ya do. you will need a brass or stainless T piece with two female and one male entry points, the diameters and thread should match that of the thread and diameter on your oil pressure sender unit located under the intake. you will need to 1/4 inch steel or similar hose fittings with the same thread and diameter. a tap and die set with the tap to match the fittings you choose to use. two hose clamps 1/4 inch 600mls of 1/4 highpressure hose....fuel line will do. some gasket glue or thread tape. number all your hydraulic lifters I1 I2 I3....I12 and E1 E2 E3...E12 pull them all out and turn your head up side down so you are looking at the face that bolts to the block. stand at the front of the head , the exhaust ports should be on your left the intake ports on your right. at the front right of the head on the corner there is a water jacket and also a small round oil gallery very near each other. you will note on the front left(intake side) of your rb30 block that there is no small oil gallery near the water jacket.....this is why at the momment the head is incompatible with the 30 block as these two overlap and will mix oil with water. with the head still upside down and you standing at the front of it circle the small round oil gallery on the head's face, next to the front right water jacket with a pen and take it to a work shop and get them to tig weld up the hole.. .. now when it is bolted to the rb30 block the oil and water gallery wont over lap. you can now use a wider range of rb series head gaskets. at this point you can choose to bolt the head on now leaving the VVL redundant or do what i did below. whilst your head is still off now is the time to set up the head for a new oil input for the vvl hydraulic lifters. if you look where the hydralic lifters sit there is a gallery that runs the lenght of the head on both sides this feeds the hydraulic lifters, you need to feed this gallery again with oil. with the head in the same position as above, you will note to the right of where the intake cam seal on the front of the head is there is a vertical rib running down from aforementioned welded hole on face to just below the cam. place the rear cam cover on(before you would put the cam pulleys on). this will give you a accurate estimate of how much space you have and at what angle the fitting needs to be at to clear everything. take the brass T junction with two female and one male fittings with the same thread as your oil pressure sender unit. you will also need two qauter inch hose fittings , one to fit the T piece and one to screw into the side of the head screw the oil pressure unit into one of the holes on the T piece and then screw in a qauter inch fitting to the other. screw the whole assembly into the block where the oil pressure sender was. ensure the Brass hose fitting on the T piece is facing up and forward to the front of the engine once tight in the block. drill a hole (slightly smaller than thread on the second Hose fitting) into the aforemention oil gallery running up the front of the head near the intake cam. with the tap and die set thread the hole to match the thread on the 1/4 inch fitting. ensure when drilling that you allow for your rear cam cover to go back on. including room for the hose clamp. screw in the fitting to the head, link the two via the hose and clamp each end. now you vvl will operate normally as if it was on its orginal rb25 block. may i add the series one r33 engines had a oil gallery seperate to that of the series two the series two shared the right front head bolt hole(larger diameter above the thread) to flow oil up to the head. this is why on the series one gasket the hole is seperate yet on the series two head gasket the head bolt hole is tear shaped.

dude, that hole is the size of the waste gate on mine....lol also noted your CAS is almost cranked right around to fully retarded....recheck your base timing.. . and if that head is the R33 vvt head you might want to ensure the vvl is working aswell as the rb30 blocks dont cater for the extra oil gallery..