lachlanw

do you mean the useless thing with a shock that bolts to the strut tower ? or the harmonic balancer on the crank ? harmonic balancer use a r34 gtt one useless shock thing , skyline ones could be made to fit . which side of the engine bay are they one ? if intake side , its more likely due to battery being on drivers side but in the boot of skylines. can prolly redrill holes around strut tower

fan might be cold and not engaging enough . fmic is blocking most air from flowing through the radiator and making warm air not reach the thermo clutch to turn fan on. if fan thinks its cold ( surrounded by cold air) it wont engage . next time it over heats pop the bonnet and see how much air the fan is actually moving do you have standard fan or some electric ones do you have a fan shroud

air leak

yeah the brake thing is just gonna f**k it worse than normal and make it slower . how is putting the brake son gonna make it faster ?

things that look like the de mister strips on a rear window but where in the windscreen where they wipers rest mine is cold climate but not rusty at all

no worries . when i first said about the different steering feeling about 2 days after i got the car all i got was 10 people waffling about replacing powersteering fluid and ps fluid coolers and shit , none of them had neo motors

do you have a fan shroud ? does your stock thermofan work correctly ? eg it draws a lot of power when car is hot . have you checked thermostat? not that expensive / hard to replace

get a b r limiter , they are like the mad core . the flames make your way car faster . but it drifts weird if your exhaust isnt in the middle . pull the exhaust off at the dump pipe and itll make it do wheelies

yeah its kinda a major no no . like big fines . really big . like 5 figures big . there will be a nipple on the pipe somwehere that has what looks like a tire valve cap on it . or one of the lines off or unbolt them

change the tire size or get some wheel spacers no you cant get a new uprite arm

not 11 for a start . ever heard of a search .imagine if everyone made a poll or created a topic everytime they wanted to know something . people post info for a reason

its supposed to do that . actually makes it go better at low ish rpm / gives it a better spread of power theres a paragraph or 2 in the alex gorodji gtr book

you can buy the first car to lap the nuremburg ring in under 8 minutes for under 30k shut up and be happy

is car on FLAT ground . fuel tank is a big flat shape and 5 litres might not be enough

you can make a manual boost controller do both depending on where you put it . put it between the t peice and the ic pipe to achieve 7/10 psi (for example) or remove the restrictor in the line to/from the solenoid and put the manual boost controller in the line between the solenoid and the hose from turbo intake to afm . to achieve 4/10psi (for example)

the gauge on the dash and the ecu have their own temp sensor . does the heater still get hot as a mofo ? if not its most likely thermo stat

makes the steering have less assistance as you are on boost . dont notice it much when driving but you really feel it it you are doing a half launch and trying to turn . mine has been blocked for the same reason as yours for a year now . might hoook it back up to see what its like . this would do it quite nicely http://dsrturbo.com/index.php?cPath=45 cheap and could be put in the loiner that goes onto the j pipe

yo u better have a fooking good reason

go look on google

define turbo wear ? you cant really put a number on it . yes it will have a shorter life based on the fact its working harder . if you knew what you were doing you could use a manual boost controller to achive what you said in the above post but if you dont know how to do it i suggest you dont

it will be fine untill you can put it on the dyno and have anough mode to prove it is a restriction it will do

yes they are

r32 and 33 are the same but turbo and non turbo are different

cops love trying that one on in nz . pity the exhaust can legaly be as low as you want as long as its not draggin on the ground . same as body kit . only things of structual importance have to be 100 mm . unless its certified .

what a joke . what is the piont of a FILTER . to FILTER particles out of the air that damage your engine . get something that filters properly and if you can prove on the dyno it is a restriction get a bigger filter untill it is not having plenty of experience with filters on moto x bikes the general consesus is oiled cotton and oiled foam are on par with each other while clean but when dirty the k&n will outflow the foam ones due to more surface area although rush goes some way towards fixing this with its contoued outer surface http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/media/A...sh%20Filter.jpg