pipster11

dont really want to take it to pm mate, doesn't bother me that much just want some cheap rotors that someone doesn't want anymore

ooops, that one squeezed through my awesome onboard grammar detector, i'm not even sure what i was trying to say

sorry its shin on the out side on the pos and shiny on the inside for the neg, cos the 'lecticity flows from pos to neg i also use diet coke cos its more acidic

i thought mine was a 24mm core but the new rad is about 3 or 4 times thicker so mine was prob 16mm too for the bung hole i took the whole rad into a bolt shop b4 i installed it and they had a bung shaped bolt thing with an alan key hole in the back we thought it was 5/8 unf (imperial fine pitch) but there was a metric one that was a better fit (the guy muttered something about 16mm tapered thread) go to a specialist bolt place and ask them that the nearest metric is to the imperial 5/8

i fitted my just jap "cooling pro" rad today it came with the hole for the sensor in the bottom corner but mine had no sensor (my 32 had one and my 31 has one too) had to go to a bolt shop and get a blanking plug, also the bolts that hold the radiator shroud on are different, not a perfect fit but its good only think i'm experiencing is the temps going up in traffic (ecutalk display) must be insufficient airflow through the thick core or a bit of air still in the system

no worries, still holding off on mine as im not sure if im gonna get r34 brakes yet how come not through ebay? do sau members get a discount?

if rotors are warped then you may be able to skim them (lathe them flat) but if they are worn and already getting pretty thin then this is not a good idea second hand calipers can be had cheap, just look at the pistons and dust seals and make sure they havn't been leaking

why change it then? rebuild kit will be hard to get and exxy. callipers leaking? get some cheap s1 replacements from someone who has upgraded qfm ar1m pads, now for s2 stags, ebay $179 = win less dust than bendix ultimates and waaaaaaaaaaay better performance, that with slotted rotors will be a good upgrade pm "rs73" he could get me new slotted rotors very cheap

just curious as to what acceptable voltage ranges are? and time to go from max to min to max etc? off the top of my head mine bottoms out at 0.3V and maxes at about 0.95V and takes a second to go from bottom to top and about a second to go back down when fairly warm (a bit quicker when hot, maybe even twice as fast)

i've done a lot of reading and for a sports pad or to increase the capability of your brakes i'd be looking at some qfm pads think they are still developing the s1 pad so maybe you could look at getting someones s2 brakes and get those put on, this will get you up to a 290mm rotor which is closer to acceptable for a car of the stageas weight how much were you looking to spend on recoing the stock brakes?

its good, just wish i could use mine (no radiator in the car atm ) just incase some ppl who have ecutalk displays and didn't get the email from peter, the new software update now means that your fuel consumption info is saved when its turned off!!!!

im not sure if your taking the piss at my shit offset so i'm just gonna say thanks

fine, i'll re type to your standards "i'm unsure that the position and diameter of the top tanks for an rb26dett motor is the same as an rb25det or 25neo as the are all different head designs and may not be compatible. generally gtr models also have different radiator supports and reinforcement bars due to having a fmic as standard. This may also change the mounting dimensions of the radiator"

all comes down to how badyl its failed i had an outback which would throw cel for o2 all the time but would still idle and drive ok my 32 had a bad o2 too and it idled badly and unplugging it made it better and ran better too o2 is only used for idle and low throttle amounts (cruising and coasting) if your getting 400+ kms from a tank around town its not too bad you can get the cel to show you what the o2 is doing by getting it into diagnostics mode (paperclip thing) and starting the car and holding the revs at 2000 rpm, it sould flash about 5 time in 10 secs or 10 times in 5 secs, i forget

bad o2 will trip the cel on most things with obd-ii based stuff go to bursons and haggle, should be able to get a new one for ~$90 worst case is that you cel still comes on but you get slightly better fuel consumption

my stag has been apparently running on the sin5 but i'll be changing to the nulon this week i think penrite seems to have done well but its pretty dark and only about 4 months old i think i had nulon in my 32 and it seemed good

s2 days neo - simple

either get an ecutalk display (www.ecutalk.com), awesome gadget and really handy to have or their consult cable you want to look for the o2 sensor voltage changing from low to high and back down to low (.3 to .9 back to .3, etc) it should rise and fall quite quickly too (up and back down in a couple of seconds) if its a series 1, get the o2 sensor for an n14 sss pulsar with an sr20 (same plug) if its a series 2, get the same one, but you have to cut and crimp the old plug to the new sensor

im gonna go with r33 gtst, same chasis same motor, if you get gtr stuff it may be different cos of the awesomeness of the rb26's

the 31 rad could prob be made to fit but i'm not sure if the bottom has pegs, the dimensions of the core are fine and the hose exits are in the same place maybe get a manual rad and an oil cooler and mount the cooler behind the rad = hot air onto it which will stabilise the temps a bit quicker

no worries, just give them a call, probs best to tell them its an auto skyline is prob the easiest also, that price was for me removing the rad myself and not including the coolant i'll need later i went for a 40mm cooling pro one but i've got a manual you could get an r31 one cheap and they are thicker and come in auto but have a different top mount but you could fab something

i was quoted $120 for new top o ring and flush, $180 for new top tank and flush and o ring and flush was geting the core rodded = definitely removing the shit in there

thanks for spamming my thread i didn't paint my 32, i bought it like that cos i liked the kit on it and i thought it was blue (i am actually colourblind to red, hence thinking it was blue) also, half decent imports are hard to come by in tas and i had 10k sitting in my pocket and i bought it i dont claim to know everything but i've been reading every post in the tech section on boost for probably 3 years so i've got a pretty good mental database of what are common problems and solutions and i did tell someone to take a car to ultratune cos i know they will do pre purchase inspections and i know a couple of ultratunes that knew their stuff and helped me out when i had a silvia - i guess everyones experience with them differs but they are a nation wide company so you have a lot more comeback than an independent "import" workshop i dont wanna be anyones enemy, this forums is great and everyone until now has been so friendly its just added to the joy of owning a stag one last thing, yes im tight, but when you have to get by on $200 a week you dont generally have all that much spare cash and if your still upset about the bucket fiasco then sucked in cos thats the kind of reply i was hoping to get - someone who thought i was serious

how much did u pay? i just got the just jap 40mm one for $365 inc postage, just wondering if i could have gotten something better for the price

what the go with the just jap ones? there is 40 and 60 mm 33 gtr ones, 40 and 60 mm gtst ones and 40 and 60 mm 34 gtt ones, which one do i need?