pipster11

you could come just to meet everyone the stag is so much harder to wash than my 32 or s13, so much taller and so much more surface area forecast is also for rainy periods clearing later so looks like the arvo should be nice

no need to flush if you always keep up on oil changes, i only flush if there is some tappet noise or it looks gunky under the cam cover will be keen to use sougi next change after hearing its got heaps of detergents in it

only rwd stageas are auto all manuals are awd stock stagea turbos are good for about 12psi i know an rvr owner about to get a tune and wind 20 psi into it on a stock turbo a legnum has just started parking near where i live but hasn't moved for a few days, wanna hear than thing fire up, it looks pretty nice would be pretty intruiged as to how my rs4s compares to it

yeah i think it was written a while ago when the centre console alone was worth $1k AU there are manual legnums starting at $12k manual stags start at $12k for converted ones and about $14k for a factory fitted manual or a 260rs is for sale for $16k but its an rs4 converted to 260rs

no because the engine is tolleranced so that when everything is warmed up a 40 weight oil will have the right film strength and heaps of other factors, the only time you go heavier is when the engine is worn a bit more due to old age or if you are heading to the track - they are still street cars and after a few hot laps things heat up pretty quickly so you will see higher oil temps than on the street which means thinner oil, so you put in a thicker oil to start with to counter it give it a flush with some oil flush, if you wanna flush the crap out of it do as follows: 1. buy the cheapest oil you can find (woolies sells the el cheapo GW stuff for nearly $10 2. Buy 2 bottles of oil flush (i like the nulon one, you can use just 1 if you think its a bit over the top) 3. Buy you new oil and filter (I'd say try the penrite HPR 10w50 semi syn, filter is up to you) 4. Dump the old oil (leave the old filter on) 5. Put sump plug back in 6. In with the flush and cheapo oil 7. Run the car for about 20 mins (do not drive it) 8. Every 5 mins rev to engine to 2 or 3,000 rpm and hold for about 20 secs (causes a dishwasher effect inside) 9. Dump the flushing oil (should be really black) 10. New filter on 11. New oil in 12. Drive

yeah my speedo does read a tiny bit under, but probably still a sub 6 sec time did also launch from about 5k rpm lets see some more times, most boost controllers have these kind of functions if set up correctly

Hey guys, Seeing as we have a 1/4 mile thread thought i'd chuck this up as its more of a real world performance benchmark and i'm intrigued as to what the quicker stags are getting down to Its nice and easy if you've got an ecutalk or a boost controller that does 0-100's use a format like this: Model: Mods: Power: ->0-100 Time: So mine is: Model: S2 RS4S Mods: Turbo back exhaust, constant high boost mode Power: 137 awkw (from prev owner, was running 7psi but is now running 10) ->0-100 Time: 5.65 as read from the ecutalk (with a quite a bit of clutch slip) Cheers, Tom

get an ecutalk display (www.ecutalk.com) i love my gadgets but this thing is awesome, can be used as a consult cable but also reads off every sensor and can do fuel consumption (once you set the injector size)

the prev owner of my car had 20's on it with rubber band thick tyres, ride quality would have been terrible, 19's will ride better but the secret to making wheels look big on stageas is getting a low offset so they stand in the guards still a way off getting them, current ones are still round and i think clutch upgrade will be next on the list would look sexy as tho

sounds like an idea, prob give mine a clean off at the invermay car wash thingo b4 i go cant wait

i'd probably stay away from a converted one to be honest mate the c34's are good cars but look at the thread that highlights the problems with manualising a stagea http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/wh...nv-t105947.html if it was a swap for an autech 260rs or a series 2 rs4s then i'd jump at it but for a converted s1.... not sure if its a good trade also, there are a few bargain rs4s's getting about i got mine way under market price i've only driven mine but it handles well for a big car, surprises anyone who gets in it but does wash out a bit in the corners if you come in with a bit too much speed (can be fixed with a castor kit and some good tires and maybe a coilover kit) factory manuals also got thicker drive shafts, beefier rear sway bar and s2's have more torque from the neo motor (rather than the average rb25) comes down to you in the end but manual stageas aren't as rare as they used to be good luck with whatever you do

cool beans, i think biki is pretty popular in qld and i dont think there is anyone down my way who tunes either (i do uni in tas but live in qld) so its gonna have to wait till i go home anyway i would still like to hear from someone with a biki and why they went that way

wicked weather looks like its picking up by the end of the weekend too, scratch that - weather looks average still

anyone heard anything about bikirom's? i've had a few ppl tell me that they are better than a nisstune and have mapped out a lot more features of the r34 ecu than nisstune have any thoughts?

haha, na the gf works there and takes the stag to work she drives it more than i do, i can see the uni from my room - which is a depressing thought

pretty sure it is, if its a neo it will also have solid lifters, if the belt goes in an interference motor with hydraulic lifters it can be ok but usually its bad news in most scenario's

yeah that sounds cool not much petrol in mine atm anyway might have to rob a bank so i can fill the beast for the next trip

yup, stocks are 35W 12v xenon's, but you can get 50W (or 55W) replacements = more light

think we just need to set a date, if you wanna come them come if you dont wanna be beaten by a volvo stay at home

i'll be keen for whenever just checked the weather and its not looking good for a while set the time and date and ppl should come

thats hella cheap for splitfires www.justjap.com www.kudosmotorsport.com www.ebay.com.au http://www.performance-wise.net get splitfires if you've got the cash and you want something which is 99% reliable (one 1 in 100 has a fault apparently) if you want to save some $$$ get some jjr ones or superspark, both have 12 month warranty (i think) but a bit cheaper

sorry for making it sound very selective, wasn't what i intended but its just on the gold coast (where i'm from) 70% of the nissan drivers that are on boost think that they are racing drivers but actually drive something that is a long way from quick, and when the nissan cruise was organised it was nissan "sports" cars only, ended up with over 100 cars (180's, s13's, s14's, s15's, r31's, r32's, r33's, r34's, stageas, cerfiro's, v35's) still not used to how things work down here but i was trying to suggest to keep it to the greater skyline community (i.e. anything that there is a forum for here on SAU) but i'm not organising it, it was just a suggestion, and i'll attend and support whatever happens

re the spark plugs, i've heard quite a few ppl say that i dont bosch plugs in a nissan would affect it too much but i've heard of euro cars running bad on ngk and fine on bosch (i used to live in the uk) stock new coilpacks are the best and i think at the moment your looking at about $1200 for a set of 6 splitfires will cost around $600 yellow jackets - $450 jjr - $500-$550? also, the coilpack looms are notorious for going brittle and failing so it may be that with the engine running, just simply move any wiring you can - dont yank it but move it about where you can and listen for changes in the engine (picking up or dropping a cyl etc) good luck

maybe in japland but resellers here dont cover them i dont think check the thread here on sau somewhere lot of ppl saying how you get no warranty on them

Hey guys need to sell my r33 brakes, bought them without checking what size the bolt holes were and they are wrong need to sell them so i can buy some 34 calipers They are painted in VHT anodised paint (just recently done) looking for $300, not including the pads no rotors to suit as well may include the brake lines/modified banjo bolts if you need them located in Launceston but can prob arrange to get them to Hobart pm or txt on 0422 988 328