pipster11

spotto: me getting raped in the a** by bp tasmania today - $153.9 wtf???? someone in the stag section lives in rural nsw and there is only one place that sells 98 which is a bp and its 140.9 grrrrrr if only we could boycott them

sorry, i think i worded what i said a bit clumsily. i was under the impression that the maps got exponentially richer the more airflow (boost) the ecu sees by having control of the boost and limiting it to 5psi all the way it means that i can have it so i can only use 5psi for overtaking - i found this handy because i could hit 10psi below 4500 rpm before i started fiddling what i was trying to say is that if you use more throttle but less boost then you will use less fuel than less throttle but more boost (as the stock ecu gets really rich once its seeing 10psi of airflow)

pretty sure if it hears a knock then the ecu pulls timing and dumps fuel i've been running it for a couple of weeks and i leave it mainly on low cos if i'm on the highway and go to overtake it will at 10psi before you know it and how i see it 40% throttle with 10psi or 60% with 5-6psi - cos the stock maps are so rich once you get up to ~10psi its gotta use less fuel i did a trip to the coast, 150kms each way and used about 17 litres to get there which included going through some fun twisties - only 2 ppl in the car but 1 huge ass 12 man tent, 4 surf boards, 1 body board, 1 esky, clothes, doona and other random shit and not driving lightly really on the way back i think i got closer to 10 (something like 10.2 or 10.5)

i recon the sougi s6000 from gulf western sounds the go tbh winter oil for neo's is prob 0w30 or 0w40 for normal 25's i would say 10w40 (maybe 10w30 if its still a tight motor)

a mate once talked me into buying a cadence 1500wrms monoblock it was a bargin, only $800 lol instead of $1500 what a stupid idea that was lol

i used to use it, seemed good and i got average fuel consumption with it i know its not a stag but the gf's grandparents always use it in their audi and they see 8l/100km city and getting down to almost 6 on the highway!!!! and its the turbo one too, and its a solid car - damn germans also, if you want basic control over your boost then you car chop off just the neg (grounded) side of the stock solenoid, connect some wire to the solenoid side of what you chopped and run it into the cabin, grab an on/off switch, connect your wire to one side of the switch and earth the other that mean that with the switch off you will run whatever you car runs before 4500, but will do it all the way to redline flich the switch to on, you get max boost all the way to redline there have been stories of the stock solenoid getting burnt out if grounded all the time - this is a way to have the best of both worlds

picking up my 34 4 pots on monday so excited - no more warped disks or worrying if i'm gonna pull up

hmm, look very similar but slightly different if they are thicker its not my much, the ride is pretty firm tho, maybe harder shocks then?

can anyone tell me the specs on the springs and shocks in my car i've had a look on the impul site but found nothing can someone also tell me if the springs are stock or aftermarket/thicker? i'm quite happy with it as it is but i'd like to know where i stand thanks

was it cold? could be that you were just a tiny % away from hitting r&r but you never did, but now its getting colder over night the air in the morning could be more dense = afm reads as more air flow go out in the heat of the day and see if it does it if it still does it then you could be unlucky and have a bad splitfire (uncommon but happens)

well i just ran it through a tyre calc and it says that if my current wheels were +40 (i'm unsure what they are but have bad offset) and the new wheels have 265's (reasonable on a 10" rim?) on them that the tyre will be 2mm further inwards and 38mm further out this should be ok on the back but i'll have to investigate on the front, its not low either so i dont mind having them sitting flush with the guards i've attached the tyre calc too cos i think its a pretty handy one and gives a nice picture too: tire.xls

saw a white s2 stag heading southbound on the midlands on sunday gave a wave, got a wave back

hey guys, thought i'd ask for a bit of advice i'm thinking that i want to get some lenso d1r's, will hopefully get them sometime this year so it means that they will have to come from spg here in tas http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371751 only problem is that they only list their 9's in high offsets and the only thing close to a nice fitment will be the 18x10 +22 how would that go on an rs4s? thanks

bugger, i was gonna call up and ask about that cos i've got a few chips from driving to tas may still call up and complain that they are underwritten by aami and they offer it

i know its a bit old but i added my gf onto my policy and told them that she didn't drive it much and it was only for emergencies - added her on at no extra cost and she's 18 just for reference, justcar - rs4s (they didn't have it in their system but took notes of what it was) valued at 17,500 - ~$1400 a year with pay by the month (would be cheaper for one off lump sum) just got me wondering if they do glass cover, will check it out and see

saw a white s2 heading southbound on the midlands highway a bit out of perth (tas), gave a wave and got one back anyone from here?

managed to pull 480kms from this tank (light has been on for about 20kms) that has included running through town, 4 hours on the highway with several straights and overtaking manoeuvres and 30ish mins going over some mountains = fun i've hooked up an on/off switch to the grounded side of my solenoid and ran it into the cabin and grounded it there - basically allowed to have 5-6psi max with the switch off and ~10 with the switch set to on not sure why mine is 5 and 10 tho (thought it was 5 and 7 stock) makes a big difference, can notice the lack on high boost on accel but as i figure the stock maps go very rich on 10psi and are much leaner on 5-6 so it may take more throttle input to get it to move on low boost but at least it will be running a bit leaner

you have ppl who buy 4x4's to go off road but you also have a different breed around schools (generally more affluent schools) you have the ppl (usually mothers) who think that every time they go for a drive they are going to be in a fatal accident and whols confidence on the road isn't high - their reaction to this is to buy a massive steel box to contain their children (4x4) but wait, many other mothers also have this brilliant idea, so what you get is 70% of the cars in and around schools driven by someone who isn't confident in driving a small car = complete fail at driving i think the government should put some sort of cap on who can buy a 4x4, maybe some form of extra licence cos they dont stop or turn like a normal car - that would stop most of them

sounds good, the gc meet and great was good so maybe a tassie one is in order too may also involve some "fun" driving seeing as we have such awesome roads down here - you may have to show me your favourite routes

the interior of c34's is better than any holden or ford of the same age, its better than the inside of my old subaru too and thats about the same age also i believe its "beauty is in the eye of the beer holder"

rb20e

o'brien auto as in the windscreen place? if so, how much for those chip repairs? cos i got a couple when i drove down from qld thats a bit crazy that there are at least 4 manual stags in lonnie! sorry for hijacking this thread so much, but we should have a meet up while the weather is still nice

are you the guy that works at the autobarn? i've heard a lot of ppl on boost complain of poor workmanship at boost, i dunno who to believe

this nothing feels as nice as selecting your own throttle input and gears and gear change speed/ferocity and all that other stuff while getting up the chuff of things like s14's etc through the twisties (obviously loosing a bit in the corners and gaining on the straights) also, 0-100 in 5.65s is pretty brisk for a largeish wagon - can't find any stock specs for that, thats what the ecutalk said i did the other day in my rs4s also, c34's are ridiculously cheap at the moment especially when you compare the s2's to r34's, even the auto 4 door taxi 34's i haven't driven an m35 so i can't comment on them but if you dont mind auto i reckon they would be the go cos they have a proper wagon suspension setup and a lot more torque now is the time to buy tho, they are all so cheap

just be wary that the rears of stageas are valved differently to that of the gtr (cos your lucky enough to have the gtr style rear shocks - fork type) the rs4s rears are also different to the normal stagea ones, something to suit a 260rs will be the go you'd be looking at about $1100 for bc's + postage i'll help you out with the install and you'll just need a wheel alignment after to be safe