pipster11

i think justjap or kudosmotorsports do the whole timing belt kit for about $300 (with gates racing belt) you get all the tensioners with it so it seems like a pretty good deal

i saw a silver m35 stag in lonnie going the other day looked pretty nice

i'll look after it for you

6 speed r34 getrag with an ikeya formula shifter? mods on mine, 6" alpine type r coaxials for the rear doors (fronts already had some kind of focal splits in there), machined the rotors, jjr 40mm alloy core radiator to keep things cool service coming up next week, Gulf Western S6000 Sougi Class 5 Fully Synthetic going in (same spec as motul 300v chrono but only $68 for 5 litres) should be good, will be interested how it goes

x2 fully synthetic please nulon hi-tech fast flowing has been going pretty well in mine but its not a true fully synthetic (only class 3, barely fully syn) will be changing to Gulf Western S6000 Sougi next week, its hard to find but its as good as Motul 300v Chrono apparently but only $60-70 for 5 litres and its nothing like the cheapo $12/bottle stuff supercheap sell either worth looking for really

brake lockup is actually due to having too much pressure applied to the rotor in a small area (stay with me) and is caused by the pad shihing too hard onto the rotor and causing the whole thing to stop larger rotors actually allow you to create the same braking effect with less pressure being applied to the rotor which means you can apply more pressure to the rotor also, 2 pot sliding callipers are the norm, its not very often that you see a twin pot that is opposed (1 on each side), the only one i've seen like that recently is on my friends 34 y/o merc also, i know 140kw is sfa power as to what other ppl are running but it was to prove a point that i am making similar power as to what you get in an r34 (which has much more braking capability) also, there is a kit already that has the brackets and rotors to suit an r33 but i will need 14mm bolt holes in it so i may as well make one myself

find some stainless pipe with 12mm id and 1mm wall thickness then cut to length sorry guys, i have r33 gts25t callipers and can get brembo rotors for $250 so instead of messing around with adapting to run 296mm rotors i wanna run 324mm rotors then have a bracket with 14mm bolt holes for the stagea and 12mm bolt holes for the 33 calliper

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has some sort of cad file for some brake adapter brackets looking to upgrade the brakes on my car and was thinking of rendering it up on catia (what my uni uses) or inventor (students get a free download) i'm thinking that i'll make a bracket to run GTR brambo rotors with r33 callipers (bought what i thought were r34 callipers for my stagea but they are 12mm bolts not 14 like mine so now i have callipers i cant use etc) I should also have access to a laser cutter too But before i start i thought i would ask if anyone has some already on file (can change mounting bolt hole sizes easily if the are 12mm currently) Also trying to work out weather to make it an L shape bracket (not with a 90° bend but like 30°) or a dog bone shape (holes almost ontop of each other, just offset a little) Thanks in advance if you can help, Tom

think it should be a neeesan cruise really but then some ppl who want to come have moved on from nissans

i understand what your saying but... pad size isn't everything, most of it is about the amount of leverage that the callipers have about the axis plus i am making 140awkw (about the same as a stock gtt's rwkw) in a car that is 1650kg+ and capable of speeds in the order of 180kmh yes the stock sized rotors are big (289mm) and the pads are big but there is no getting away from the fact that they are only 2 pot and as i see it atm i can get some gtr rotors for $250 which is cheeper than i can get new slotted stock sized rotors plus i have the callipers and access to a laser cutting machine (i hope, uni should let me borrow it) to me, making a big brake upgrade will be cheaper than slighly improving over stock the aim of the car is also to reach 200awkw in the near future and maybe 250-300 down the track bmc stopper will be on my list shortly as will the lines also, slotted rotors will eat the pads quicker too

thats awesome mate, good to hear ou got it sorted less of a hairdryer noise is probably due to the new turbo->manifold gasket for oil, i'm going to be changing to gulf western sougi s6000 (have a look on their site) its a class 5 full syn which is what motul 300v chrono but is about $60/bottle (5 litres) google for a supplier on the gc (autobarn should be able to get it) check the last few pages on that link i posted, someone on the gc has found a seller so maybe ask him where he got it from its nothing like the $12/bottle cheapo stuff they sell in supecheap (they sell so much oil to mining companies that they dont advertise the sougi much)

stock sized rotors or r33? dont really want to upgrade to something that wasn't big enough when it came out of the factory i'm making r34 gtt power so i think it should have at least gtt stopping power too, running gtr rotors should suffice

well i have 33 callipers and 34 rotors atm so i have no useable combination atm i can get the 33 rotors redrilled no worries but i am thinking that for the hassle that i could go bigger again (i can get some gtr 324mm rotors for $250) and i have access to the software to make the bracket and hopefully to a laser cutter as well so seeing as i've got all these options i'm struggling as to what to choose got a lot of time to think now tho cos i got the stock rotors machined and they are nice and smooth now also have the option of selling the 33 callipers for $200-$300 too just not sure what to do

pretty sure its a sunload sensor to help the auto a/c determine how hard to work same as any nissan of the era (s13's - r33's and maybe r34's)

for whoever was looking for a stagea, there is a dealer in inversek selling a nice black s1 for under $9k and it looks pretty clean think it was at greg crick wholesale place round the back of the honda dealer cant remember who was saying but someones mate wanted to buy a stag

my bad, i thought legana was down hobart way, should have check with google maps i just wanna see how my stag compares to everyone else's seeing as im not from down here i'll leave it to someone else to organise the cruise but i think we should get it rolling earlier the date is set the more time ppl will have to get the date off work etc

too bad those places are in hobart mate think the next meet is going to be up in lonnie again seeing as we have a few stags up here i got my rotors machined so i'm keen to hit some twisties again had an awesome time chasing my mates bwm through the sideling the other day he also said that there was a pretty awesome road out by liffey falls that goes down to the lakes, Lake Highway (imaginative name lol) how about everyone meets in tunbridge, then head up to deloraine via the back roads, but i think he said it turned to dirt after the lakes whatever, next meet and cruise is needed

not sure what to do guys i've got r33 callipers, and r34 rotors (due to mistake by seller) now i can either keep the rotors and sell the 33 callipers then buy 34 callipers (but 34 4 pots are really hard to find, $400+ from importmonster + $200+ of shipping) or someone near me will sell me some gtr brembo rotors (324mm) for $250 and i could then make up a bracket to suit (have access to cad software and maybe to a computerised laser cutter ) then sell the 34 rotors or sell the 34 rotors and get some 33 rotors and some 12mm id pipe with a 1mm wall thickness its for a series 2 rs4s - any help appreciated thanks, Tom

i would say number 2 is the way to go here heaps more torque and heaps more potential the neo head flows better but also has one main advantage - vct, this adds a lot a mid range prob the biggest question tho, is it going through a slush box or manual and what is the budget? if i ever have the money i'll be getting a rips 4wd rb30 block and put my head on it even so, 300 rwkw is quite a lot but still manageable easily on a un-opened 25 neo with the right supporting mods

took the stag for a lash to the sideling the other day - its basically a cool section of slightly twisty highway then prob a good 10 km of cambered turns and hairpins ) was in 2nd and 3rd the whole time and either hard on the loud pedal or the brakes and only used about 20 litres which averaged me about 16l/100km (which is pretty good seeign as its running rich as a mofo, and involved about 30 or 40 mins of flat out driving and probably 40 or 50 mins at highway speeds) cant wait till i get a tune sorted, get some more power and less fuel consumption

didn't realise it was your site seems like there is a bif of info on there needs some bits and pieces about the rs4s's

i changed and put nulon syn 10w14 in mine and it loved it with a heavy oil at normal temps i dont think the the 60 is gonna thin down enough to do a good job i'd go the hpr 10 or the sin 10 at a max (think the sin10 is the 10w50) i've got all the service records for the car in aus and its been running sin 5 (10w40) and its lived in brisbane for a few years also, sr's are prone to spinning the bottom end but i think its an oil in head retention issue like the gtr's if your running thick oil you've prob got quite high oil pressure and it could be forcing its way past seals more isn't more, check out this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...&start=1280 you can skip the the last few pages really, maybe try some of the GW sougi oil when you need a change next the only ppl running as thick as yours are fuly built 26's and track cars (20 mins of straight flat out is much different to 20kmh in the warm)

woah! thats thick stuff for a daily driven car thats thick enough for a track only car in qld summer (eg 100 deg water temp +) 10w40 is pretty good for all rb's unless they are getting on in age/kms

run the engine up to operating temp and then do it nothing in the engine seals as well when its cold

i'll give them a few bleed, a guy in the workshops at uni said he would machine my stock rotors for me for free so that should hold the fort for now, looks like i'm gonna get some brackets made and run gtr 324mm rotors with the r33 callipers i have