pipster11

the early 2.5's tended to blow head gaskets like my outback did

get a 31 mate, i was in a similar boat to you, i needed a cheap car that i could drive for a few months b4 i went to england on my gap year and the mrs needed a car to refine her manual driving in and then drive once she got her p's so i bought a 31, i think i paid $2500 for it since then its been driven by her for a couple of years, done a couple of trips from qld to tas and its rarely missed a beat there was a point when it wasn't running but that was due to me fiddeling and taking bits off and not putting them back in right if you get a 31, just budget for a new dizzy cos its the only thing that goes wrong with them if she is learning to drive in it then your better off not having abs cos it means she will learn what to do so that she doesn't need abs kicking in cos she slowed down already its a pretty durable car, they dont really suffer from rust (some have seen rust under the front quarters so check there, but thats about it) its not great on fuel but its not bad on it either, it get about 10-12l/100km but its soooooooo comfy on the highway either get a 31 or a really cheap corolla that uses S.F.A. fuel

considered getting a highflow of your stock turbo? if you go to garret they will charge you about $1500 for a ball bearing core and will make a decent amount of power or go to hypeargear and for $800-900 you can get a turbo that is good for about 250-270rwkw and that is not much laggier than stock (also good for 20psi) not pushing you towards hypergear, just dont know all that much about garret (gcg)

sorry for being wrong guys i just remember reading through a mates spec sheet for an onld citroen he had and it gave them all a figure of km/h per 1000rpm in top gear just over thought it pretty sure reverse is geared somewhere between first and 2nd so its probably good for about 60

1 wire runs from the battery (fused near the battery ideally) 1 wire bolts to the chassis/bodywork as a ground you use the old fuel pump +'ve to activate the relay 1 wire runs from the main feed on the relay to the +'ve on the fuel pump then the pump needs grounding to the chasis done

yeah but prob 90% of the ppl who get them fitted will not use their full capabilities i know if you get a bikirom fitted to an r34 ecu you can use the vct output to trigger a water spray or whatever you want at a certain rpm

my bad, all this maths at uni is making me go crazy of course if you double the input speed you will double the output, i was thinking that the gearbox was some form of quadratic lol check this thing out: has presets for everything http://justskylines.com/knowledgebase/widg...calculator.aspx manual stagea is good for 169 mph apparently (270kmh) dunno about that tho

if you can, just run it from an r34 ecu with a nistune in it it'll be just as good as the haltech but will be about half the price

i'll take the rear brakes eventually mate, waiting for my job to get sorted (i was hired over a month ago but haven't had 1 shift lol) is it $50 with rotors?

so how do we tell if they are steel wheeled? i've gotta replace the manifold->turbo gasket soon and i'd love to find a little surprise

walbro's must be better with the low voltages i had a bosch 040 in my 32 without the wiring mod and it was fine for the cost of a relay and some wire, the benefit outweighs the risk

Route is still not confirmed just so many options and so many different opinions i'm keen for driving up towards bridport then back through scottsdale and hit the sideling had a look online and i can't see that its going to be closed down or anything and its the only one that kinda goes somewhere

most aftermarket pumps are designed for normal battery voltage rages (11.5-14.5ish) and nissan use the variable voltage with a pump designed to take it obviously this low voltage on the aftermarket pumps can burn out the motor inside and cause it to fail prematurely because they are just not designed to run off ~10V unlike the stock one

dextron 3 will do but a lot of ppl have been saying that the nissan matic-d is the stuff to use think matic-d has been replaced now tho by nissan matic-(?)

so you guys think that you just get your speed at a certain rpm and double it to get it at twice the rpm? say at 100 your doing 2000 rpm and at 3000 prm you are doing 130 (just for arguments sake) that means that for every 1000 rpm in 5th you do 30km/h so if your car redlines at 7k (for arguments sake again) that gives you 5000rpm onto of 2000 which means that your top speed would be 5x30+100 = 250 you guys realise i was replying to lachlanw? just clearing up what i said and kidafa, i didn't pay to get my 32 painted, its how it came when i bought it, it was the only one near me that was in ok condition as there is limited choice down here in tas and i didn't know enough about rego transfer to buy one from the mainland maybe you should get over the fact that i once owned a purple car i thought this section was about helping ppl not putting others down

^^^^ not nessicarily you need to take a speed at 2000rpm and one at 3000 take that figure and multiply it by how many times between say 3000 and redline and then add your original speed at 3000 some cars will only do 20kmh/1000rpm, some will do 40

get a good tune you will make more power, heaps more torque and get better fuel consumption too

o2 sensors faulty? fuel build up during warm up or cruise but of WOT warms everything up and it burns off cleaner that or the coolant temp sensor or o2 feedback disabled if its running a power fc

so many questions, so few answers, hope this helps guys also want to say that there is a better product than the high temp silicone its spray urethane made my CRC (i think) CLICK ME!!! 1, check all your hose clamps - replace with some new tridon ones from supercheap/autobarn/etc (get the good ones, they are better quality) 2, Check for split or missing vac lines causing a boost leak 3, look in the tutorial section for the "fixing your rb26 afm and maybe others" thread could be a cas (crank angle sensor) related problem, try to find someone to swap with (they tend to fail as they heat up) take the cam valley plate off and put the neo one back on top, will help keep them cool and perform better while you have the coils out, change the plugs and give the afm a clean with some contact cleaner (dont physically touch the wires) still sounds like something isn't quite right, grab a new o2 sensor (only about $80 these days and will help your fuel consumption) could be timing set wrong, blocked fuel filter, low fuel pump pressure or voltage (tutorial section has a hot-to for rewiring the pump with a relay) get a timing light onto it and a multimeter onto the tps sounds like that front cyl is running a bit off, 32's have top feed injectors which a prone to leaking even when off after 20 years of service grab some urethane seal coat like i mentioned and give that a go swap the front plug out for another one and see what it looks like after a 1000kms or so Hope that helps everyone!

handbrake light also is your low brake fluid light top it up yo!

do you have a stock filter or an aftermarket oiled one?

oh, if you see a p plater on a highway going your way, be prepared to slow down or overtake p platers have to do 80 in their first year and after a year are allowed to do 110 and dont have to wear p plates so if you see a p plater they should be doing 80 = 30kmh under the limit you should head down the tasman peninsular while your in hobart, i've got a friend who lives in dunalley and says that its nice driving around there (but there is some gravel) also, avoid the midlands highway, prob the most boring drive in tas, when you head north - take the east coast road

could be where those wires go up the top where does the loom plug into that thing? guessing up the top in the pic?

gotta get me a shorter lens, and a half decent tripod, and a decent flash and many more things have you tried any rolling shots? if you can hold something around 1/200 or even 1/100 shutter speed steady then they look awesome

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