pipster11

put some of this in the box the other day fair bit smoother now, even with the short shifter (do not use for auto boxes) also washed the rest of the car too

no worries guys i'm gonna try and get this going every fortnight so hopefully we see you all there sometime

i saw that justjap have a listing on their site for an m35 wheel bearing for about $200 dunno which one it is tho

pretty sure that when i did this i just removed both the plastic backing plate and the metal one and then both filters were on display and that is all i had to remove, no loosening of anything else

ebay - turbotech boost controller its the best manual boost controller out there and should help you keep the same psi to redline

qfm make them too its all in the brake thread gslralleysports (or somthing like that) who is a sponsor on here do the qfm ones for a god price, get the hpx ones - better than bendix ultimates minus the dust

had a gearbox change? seems that when i had my 32, the prev owner changed the gearbox and forgot to unplug the switch and ripped the connectors off the loom

anyone gonna come on sunday? a few ppl from boost are gonna come nd say hi

s1 or s2?

i saw a silver m35 cruising through newnham/mowbray i've seen it a few times now, looks pretty nice

x 2 i'm convinced that they are z32 callipers

when i drove from tas to qld i was averaging about 10.5 in a series 2 manual i've got the ecutalk display which shows l/100km once you set up the injector size most economical speeds were either 100 or 130 (on the dial so about 90 and 120 according to the gps) eventually i'll get cruise control, its really easy for the speed to creep up

I'm thinking of relocating my ecutalk display and while its out i thought i'd offer ppl the chance to borrow it its a wicked gadget and will read all the sensors the ecu sees you can also use it as a consult cable to connect your laptop to the ecu i'm up in lonnie so gimmie a yell if you want to hook your car up, i recon i'll have it out this weekend, takes 5 mins max to get it out and 30 secs to plug it in www.ecutalk.com if you wanna look at what it does - i've got the v2 display also, who wants to meet up this weekend? say 2pm at the utas lower car park in launceston

do you mean you're putting in the little motor that helps close that last little bit or the one where you push the button and the whole tale gate opens and closes? if its the latter, where did you get it from and how much? i like gadgets

^^^ x2 i dont think they are actual r33 callipers r32 280mm callipers are ribbed, but the 280mm ones of the 300zx were not and look very similar to r33 brakes show us some pics!!! if they look like they would take a 270mm rotor then they could well be where did you get them from?

F/s is a pair of front brakes from a Stagea - great upgrade for an r31 or an s13 Disks: 290mm Callipers: 2 pot sliding Pads: More surface area than r32/r33/r34 4pots Bolts: 14mm shaft (will need mounts drilled out for anything earlier than r34) This would be a good upgrade for silvia's or r31's with import struts (don't need lots of clearance behind wheel spokes) Price: $300 Any questions, just post them up or txt 0422 988 328 Cheers, Tom

if you de-gas the a/c you can get it out without removing the dash check it out in the tutorials/diy section

i've got pics of my car wearing some 20's that the previous owner had on b4 i bought the car can upload if you want the tires are rubber band thin so i doubt it was comfortable

the mounting dimensions from r33 to r34 are exactly the same (dist from from hub to bolt holes) and the leg length is proportionally different between the two sounds like you have z32 4 pots and r33 rotors z32 4 pots look similar to r33 brakes (smooth) but take a 280mm rotor like 32 callipers (ribbed)

grab a tape measure out and tell us the diameter of you disks show us some pics also the only thing wrong should be the bolt holes being to large

with my ecutalk and gps i get 3 different speeds the ecutalk over reads the ground speed and the dash shows more than that again and as somone said, its pretty accurate up to about 80 (both dash and ecu are in sync) then they start to separate anyone used the jaycar speed corrector kit?

sorry, i meant return to the rad i also meant to add that i thought the thermostat was at fault here whip it out and boil the kettle, then pour the boiling water on the thermostat, it should open up if not, get a new one - and don't get a low temp one, you just don't need it

Bingo

on my 32 i thought the old start valve (one you guys are talking about) was dodgy so i plugged up the line running to it and disconnected the electrics to it grab some carby cleaner and take the idle valve off (its on the back of the plenum) give it a good clean but make sure you dont loose any of the springs it could be caked up with carbon/grime deposits

you cant really judge the temp from the stock gauge i've got an ecutalk display and it reads the stock sensors my gauge will start moving off the bottom at about 60° and the middle is about 80° but 80° to 90° it doesn't really move if you want to know what temp its running you could get an aftermarket gauge and put the sender in the return pipe of the radiator (supercheap sell adaptors that you cut the radiator hose in half and put in the middle) or go to jaycar and get an lcd temp display kit (prob have to assemble it yourself but its easy) and leave it in your car permanently