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pipster11

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Everything posted by pipster11

  1. pics of the dump pipe please and where are you located?
  2. all r31 blocks have the oil feed and drains apparently its just the vl blocks that don't have it on series 1 blocks just so you know
  3. in the oil thread everyone has pretty much agreed that 10w40 is good for rb25's but a 5w40 would be better again being thinner when cold pull the air regulator (under the throttle body) out and give it a clean, make sure it goes all the way closed too (there is an adjuster) also pull the iac valve off (one with the idle screw on it, at the back of the plenum) and clean it clean both of them with carby/throttle body cleaner
  4. ah, i see that seems very obvious now lol
  5. dunno if this has been asked b4 but... are the stock front rotors r34 gt (non-turbo) ones? i was asking about gtt rotors in autobarn and they mumbled something about "are they the 292mm ones?" i should have asked for a part number but iirc gt brakes use a 2 pot sliding calliper too
  6. or re-tap the calliper thread to 14mm and use the bolts for the stock callipers
  7. how and where did u get that o2 sensor?
  8. on the positive terminal of the battery there is a plug that plugs into the back of the terminal connector sometimes there is 2 one sends power to the ecu so if its dodgy then the ecu won't get proper power no. 1 and no. 2 in this photo
  9. series 1 stagea - use anything off an r32 or r33 (r32 gtr was only 296mm x 32mm and r33 gtst was also 296mm but x 30mm) series 2 stagea - use r34 gtt brakes (310mm x 30mm, stock brake lines can be used with the removal of the olive fitting in the calliper) or r34 gtr brakes (324mm x 32)
  10. cool, thanks for your advise whats your opinion of the cyclops alarms? it'll be the 375b (i think)
  11. down in tassie atm, which is why i'm wanting to get the alarm asap yeah, i've had cars with alarms b4, the auto immobilisation is the most annoying
  12. had the same thing on my 32 wiggle it while the engine is running, you should be able to hear a difference
  13. sounds like i'm in the same boat as you were in im with just car both alarms meet the standards i only need it so if someone steals my car, justcar will pay up both alarms can have stuff added on as well, and the bonnet thingo
  14. this pretty sure they have to fix it under the statutory warranty that you get from a dealer - 1 month and 5000(?) kms i think
  15. hey guys, its tax time and my money is going towards an alarm (at last) i went to one place (car accessories installs, tas) and was quoted at $399 for a cyclops p375b but was advised that i'll probably need to get an actuator fitted to the drivers door to activate the central locking (don't really want to do that) and want $100 for the actuator, relays and wiring i also went to autobarn where my stagea owning friend works he says that you don't need to put an actuator in (he did the install into his stag) but the price that they can do is $600 for a viper alarm (aus standards, black wire, 3 point immobiliser - didn't get a model number tho) my conundrum is that i'm unsure what to go with the first place has the better reputation but autobarn has the nation wide backing (autobarn alarm comes with lifetime warranty) Help please, Tom
  16. ^^^ x2
  17. i suspect i need to do this soon got a link on how to do it?
  18. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/QFM-Street-Track-Br...=item56376b982c they are also a site sponsor here, dont get the ar1m or you wil chew through rotors if your not getting them hot enough ask them about the hpx's and if you get them through sau they are cheaper
  19. took me about 3 or 4 hours to slowly cruise through my r34 brake swap pull the restrictor out of the 34 brakes and use your existing banjo bolt with both original copper washers without modification the 3-4 hours also included going to get more brake fluid and bleeding everything twice and taking the master cyl out cos i got air in it the thread on the stock rotors (to pop them off the hubs) is metric fine pitch, cant remember what size tho
  20. dunno about the auto stuff but i run on 95 as well (138/litre for 95 in tas or 154ish for 98) and it runs fine i think the ecu's are smart enough to pull a little bit of timing, feels a bit zippier on 98
  21. probably on a spring then, the air probably just pushes it open once you get enough revs/air flow up
  22. couple of ppl came along not the best weather for it i know (i had to wash my car in it lol) might meet up again next week if the forcast looks good
  23. i think the hub to mounting point dimensions are all the same from r32 to r34 if you wanted to run a different rotor with the stock calliper then you would have to get custom brackets made because i think they run slightly different offsets for the disk i'd either get high performance pads or r34 brakes tho, brackets are annoying if you need measurements tho, i've still got my stock s2 brakes in the shed
  24. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...He-t280174.html
  25. you might have the variable muffler in which case, you should have a button to control the rear muffler quite often they get disconnected for compliance tho get under there and take a look
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