pipster11

very nice whats with the mismatched wheels tho?

i've seen a few i think there was a safety pack option which they are part of

if you bought the harness then its should plug straight up you may need to set the afm type tho, should be easy enough to find the info tho the neo may even just have a menu and you tell it what motor (not sure, just a guess) i put an old school safc on my r32, it reads the afm voltage then adjusts it up or down a percentage - your best to do this on a dyno but you can probably pull a few % of fuel out up the rpm range or grab a wideband and get it up the exhaust and tune it yourself

coke bottle goes into the rad cap so you can raise the water level above the plenum or you can put the nose up a hill to do the same or do both if you so wish thats how you are supposed to do vl's because holden put the radiators too low for the rb30

what did you change? (what mod did you do) b4 you bleed, crank the heater to full hot, could be air in the heater system, the hoses for that run around the back of the block

well the 25 boxes and the 33 gtr boxes are pretty much the same and my mates stock shifter fitted in my rs4s it should fit

i've got a short shifter in mine, its pretty good, nice snappy throw but you need to use more force obviously 5th can be a bit stiff but i put a new knob on it which sits a little taller and makes it just right you might as well do it

no go on the boost gauge i'm afraid, mine is 60mm and i don't want to change the holder

my 31 silhouette is wearing some 17 inch, 4 stud watanabe rs-8's i got the dayz front bumper on my stagea with the carbon filler bit too, and r34 brakes (which are quite hard to find these days) oh, and my staega came from the factory with a clutch pedal

will it rev past 5k in neutral? or is the problem under load? check all your cooler joiners and clamps sounds like you've got a boost leak somewhere which means that the afm would see much more air going through the system which could lead to you maxing out the afm voltage which gives you a fuel cut similar to the cut at redline

bump anyone know of a yellow wreck about?

what colour is it?

im still looking into why my car does that i do a lot of short trips and even once the car warms up it holds the revs up for about 5 secs b4 letting them back down every time you start it regardless of whether or not its hot or cold do you guys hate youtube or something? cos i swear that every time someone posts a vid up you two criticise the poster about something

what the chance of someone finding the c34 jap manual?

stock gauge doesn't move off its stop till about 60°C, motor was at about 55 according to ecutalk and its not like i was bouncing of the limiter and i run a group 5 synthetic which is pretty sticky even when cold and its probably been done to everyones motor in jap land

3 inch dump is on can't really notice much difference tho and even after replacing the turbo-maifold gasket there is still the whine on boost turbo had a bit of play in it so its probably that if only a side exit pipe was road legal

3 inch dump in exhaust boled back up still got the turbo whine tho

spotted me having a bit of a shit fight with my turbo i now have a new manifold-turbo gasket, 3 inch dump pipe and none of the rest of the exhaust sounds awesome but i'll attach the rest of exhaust tmrw can't wait to drive it with the new dump

check the plug on the back of the hazzards i dont think that the indicators work with this unplugged/disconnected

you should read the thread of the guy who put a vq30dett into an r34 its a rare motor that comes turboed from nissan in the cedric's i think 3 litre displacement with oil squirters and all the things that they add to the turbo versions its in the fabrication section i think, or in the one to show off you track/project cars

also bought these for tmrws exciting refit of turbo and install of the 3inch dump pipe

will bolt straight on use a coarse threaded screw and screw it into the restrictor in the bottom of the brake line hole (on the calliper) then pull it out with something, vice, claw hammer, whatever then your stock lines should bolt straight in (make sure you keep the 2 brass washers)

will be fine then

found out why it whines on high boost getting the turbo off was not the most enjoyable job tho will fit the new gasket tmrw and bolt the 3inch dump up also, lolz at the stock dump pipe, i'm surprised that the wastegate can even open i also have a sneaking suspicion that the rest of my exhaust is 3.5 inch cos the front pipe on my car is a bit bigger that the 3 inch dump/front pipe i have and it necks down just before the dump->front flange

yes the gtr rear will fit the back of a 260rs but it won't handle propperly