pipster11

the mounting dimensions are the same from 33 to 34 and the actual calliper is very similar (pistons and things) all that is really different on the 34 callipers is the length of the legs, but its only longer relative to the bigger rotor eg, 296 to 310 = 14 so the legs would be ~7mm longer

pull type same as late r32 gtr, r33 gtr, r34 gtt (and maybe r34 gtr, though the getrag 6 may have a different clutch but they flywheel is probably the same so im unsure about that one)

yeah i did the fronts again, few bubbles came out and the pedal is much better now starting to appreciate the increased braking now

qfm hpx pads - as good if not better than the ultimates and very very little dust compared to the ultimates i've got lucas twr pads in mine and they seem pretty good, but i haven't laid into them much yet - fairly dusty tho i had the same thing happen to me - it sucks hardly any import wreckers have 34 brakes either but try this guy http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/Skyline-spares__W0QQ_armrsZ1 thats his ebay store but give him a call cos he regularly has 34 brakes in stock - cost me $300 for the callipers + postage but i think i took his last set

all you need to do is find a metal supplier and see if you can buy some 12mm i.d. pipe with 1mm wall thickness which will have a 14mm o.d. also, re-bled my fronts, pretty happy with the pedal all seems good stops well now

option 1: qfm hpx pads + slotted rotors (both off sellers from SAU) option2: r34 front callipers (r33 need bushes making up to stop the slop with the 12mm bolts and 14mm mount holes) + r34 310mm rotors option 3: r34 gtr brembo's ($$$$$$$) option 4: Cheap 8 pot brake kit from Justjap ($2200) i went with option 2, but i've gotta run spacers on the front to clear the inside of the wheels but aside from that they seem good option 1 is the cheapest and will take a fair bit of work to overheat and fade and the qfm pads make very little dust too (i'll change to those pads when funds free up)

Went and played up in the snow today

i was having a look on the nistune forum and i think to recalibrate the injectors and afm all you do it put them into the nistune software and it works out a new k (constant) value for the combo and puts that into the ecu - all over in under 10 mins supposedly sounds like this tuner wants your car on his dyno pretty sure you can source a new z32 for around $300, 2nd hand being cheaper than that (~$200 i have seen)

yeah, bring it along im gonna organise lonnie meet ups every 2nd sunday so the next one will be the 11th of next month

some ppl were saying that they aren't too bad but i've noticed a fair bit of grime already i'll probably swap them out for the qfm hpx when i've got the money or am sick of washing the wheels

pics are up on my facebook, the album is public so everyone should be able to see them http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1804...4366&ref=mf

Came with lucas TWR pads which seem popular with the suby ppl will have to bleed them a 3rd time tho, still not happy with the pedal

t10 wedge i think if you've got xenon's still, look at ebay for some "blue" ish led replacements

Any one have a bleeding process for the abs? i put my 34 4pots on and let the fluid get too low and got some air in i took the master out and bled it, and re-bled the whole thing but i've still got a soft pedal and seems like a lot of rear bias (could still be air in the fronts tho) Cheers p.s. the 4 pots stick out heaps more that the stock 2 pot sliding calliper

try and find out what make the cat is x-force cats are notorious for their poor performance (both power and emissions wise) catco and metalcat are supposed to be good tho and x2 on the nisstune being as good if not better for emissions have you changed your o2 sensor while you have owned the car? if not, replace it asap its probably the main reason it failed the test cos the ecu can't see how rich its running

mine primes for about 10-15 secs, it seems like a long time if your waiting for it what ecu is it running? stock rb? or aftermarket?

i know this is a bit late but it doesn't matter both filters have the same dimensions on the face of the filter, the body is just a bit bigger on the 33 one which can foul on some 34 motors (but haven't heard of anyone having troubles)

try unplugging the coolant temp sensor (2 pin connector on the thermostat housing) pulling this make the ecu think its cold and put it into cold start map also sounds like you're getting low voltage to everything if its struggling to turn over the first time try and borrow a big battery from something like a commodore and start it with that and see how you go also, b4 you start it, turn the key all the way forwards, leave for a few secs then turn it off - repeat this a few times to prime the fuel pump, you could have a leaking fpr

can i sak what ppl are doing for r34's? i'm pretty sure someone told me that the plugs a different but the sensors are the same size mine is still cycling high to low but sometimes it hangs and kinda gets "stuck" for a couple of seconds do i grab a falcon one? or kudos r33 one and cut and shunt the plug? cheers, Tom

what? i may have read you wrong but when the thermostat is closed water still flows around the engine, just not into the radiator (hence when having no thrmostat is bad for your car) as to the op you still get heat transfer with water going through the radiator, but airflow through the core increases the amount of energy from the water goes into the surrounding air and yes, you want the fans to come on AFTER the thermostat opens otherwise the temp will stay below the thermostat temp and it'll take ages to come up to temp = chewing more fuel and running on cold maps longer colder engines make less power and use more fuel, you want a coolant temp of around 85 consistantly (in traffic or giving it a lash)

Just a reminder to all that are coming meeting at utas lower car park (between the 2 roundabouts) at 9 leaving at 9.45 going this way This is the Route see you all there - txt me on 0422 988 328 if you need anything

I now have r34 4pots pulled the olive out and that was all the modification needed still have some air in the system somewhere tho anyone know if there is a bleeding process for the abs? (older abs like32 my had have bleed nipples on the actual unit)

unlikely, tasmania is hopeless for car things might take the olive out, i've seen threads with heaps of ppl doing it when i eventually get braded lines, i'll just get customs made uo

aren't 32 gtr non brembo brakes the same diam as 33 ones but 32mm thick? in other news, i got my 34 fronts today and painted them, will be fitting them up tmrw just wanna ask some opinions, should i just remove the olive restrictor thingo or cut the bango down? will i need the olive if i wanna put skyline brake lines of (its a stagea and has a 2 pot sliding callipers stock so its got a flexi brake line)