pipster11

you can cut out the silicone out from the top to expose the board inside what happens in the old nissans is that the pins where the plug comes in gets fractured and you get a dry solder joint just a touch from a soldering iron and a dab of solder and they are all good again not sure if its the same for the m35's but if your killing them at this rate it could be worth looking at

wicked photo there, what sort of settings was that on? and lens too?

you'd have to change either the fronts to 235/50's or the rears to 255/40's or idealy 265/40's not to mess up the atessa floody

did it have any floor mats in it? if so, how much?

BUMP Negotiable on price so make an offer

with coilovers, your supposed to corner weight them so you get both sides of the car holding the same weight not may places have corner weighting scales so you can just go for even height to the guards or something like that

mine has similar mods as chris's but in manual, picked it up for $13k, 0-100 in about 5.6 secs which is pretty good

no worries mate good luck with the sale shame you've had to move on

its like that 3rd pic the 12v on the left is from the ecu the 12v on the right is from the battery the ground goes to the chassis (make sure its a good contact, i.e. no paint in the way)

i think its how much the computer thinks is going to the front

your in the right section it could be that your idle valve is gunked up and its not controlling the idle propperly its a pretty easy fix if you've got some spanars or a selection of the right length sockets just grab some carby/throttle body cleaner in a can before you start look through the tutorial section on the main page and there is one called iac valve cleaning i think, follow that and you should be ok

went down to get some and they had sold out already looks like GW could be on the up

if you have adjustable shocks then set the dampening to max (softest) for best 0-100 also

you dont have to use a 4wd dyno if you pull the front drive shaft it will work on a 2wd one (may still have to pull the fuse tho)

yeah, i was mentioning cos many of us either have another car or do oil changes for family members and mates i'll be doing a few for both lol

hey guys thought i would ask if anyone has some swaybars to suit an r33 gtr they would wanna sell either after a stock rear one or thicker ones all round and sway bars and suspension to suit an my01 impreza (either stock wrx stuff or aftermarket)

my stagea will do 5.65 and thats only on 10psi, no tune, clutch slipping a bit (manuel ) and about 150 awkillerwasps just a chirp from the rears and away you go eventually the car will see a highflow, nisstune, new clutch and wider wheels (not really needed) will be interesting to see how much the extra weight affects things (stock weight is around 1650-1700kg)

someone told me that autobarn is selling the cheap gw oil for $5/bottle get down there quick for some cheap flushing oil

the 34's use a slightly different filter cos there is something down there that fouls on some models if its a 33, stick with the bigger filter, if its a 34, you can try a 33 filter and if it clears then use it cos they are cheaper and bigger = more surface area and flow/restriction i've got a stagea with the neo motor and 4wd shiz and i've got the 33 filter on it the 33 filter is also cheaper too

hope that helps

hobart or dev are prob gonna be your best bets for a good tune or get someone with a nisstune with similar mods to send you their tune file you can get the nisstune boards installed by anyone who works with electronics - eg tv repairers etc

whats the best and worst points of the subaru for you?

if you wanna sell the sub i'd be keen to put into my stag

As everyone has said they are awesome touring cars massive boot that fits heaps of stuff in it fuel useage is a bit heavy, expect 14-15l/100km in the city, highway driving sees it head down towards 10 but compared to similar aged falcon which should do about 7 on the highway you're looking out a bit a tune and a new o2 sensor will see good fuel gains - i drove to tas from the gold coast and we almost saw 700km from a tank with the car packed up to the back of the front seats if you get a factory manual you get better seats which is a bonus, and nice suede inserts everywhere you can feel the extra weight in it but it goes well for such a big wagon, only wagon that i would rate higher or would like better would be a brand new HSV clubsport wagon think that will be my next car rs4s's have been getting cheap lately (got mine for $13k) but when you look at it they are old cars now - but still have really good safety never driven a new lib but if its a family bus you may be better off with something newer and less thirsty

dont go and see brad at boost automotive - he will tell you to get a haltech, charge you 3 times as much as a nisstune and the tune will be average at best i've heard a fair bit of praise from gt garage in hobart but its a bit of a drive but they have a 4wd dyno and can tune anything well - best to give them a call it is a type 4 board, but the tuner will also have to have the nisstune software and i dont think anyone in lonnie aside from boost auto have a dyno