pipster11

many a caravaner has experienced this, accompanied by a speeding yellow wagon and also one probably perplexed buel/sportsbike rider

ask them about it anyway, sucks when you get put on the bottom and the caravans on the top and the caravans take longer to be searched when you leave and they drive slow and get in the way and tasmania lacks duel carriage way so you get stuck behind the caravans as you can see, i don't enjoy caravans

found someone willing to post some 34 brakes so will be going for those and sell my 33 callipers (or put them on my 31, but i dont think it will clear the wheels) would be nice to make this up but its gonna work out cheaper to do the 34 brakes if i can sell my 33 callipers off

yeah the plug is different, so will need to be cut and crimped (most run stainless wire and can't be soldered) pretty sure its the same sensor tho

the ntk one is exacty the same ans is only $77 or go to bursons or supercheap, they are only $80 or $90 if the have trouble finding one then say its the same as an n14 sss pulsar (sr20), its the same sensor and plug

i should remember to lower my car b4 i head back to qld i always get shoved down in the depths and it takes ages to get out when you arrive cos everyone forgets how to drive also gets you out quicker here, cos you have to go through customs incase you have fruit (not the engine sort) and you get out onto the highway ahead of the caravans and the grey menace

get some sougi while they still have it, $68 and its a class 5 syn like motu; 300v and royal purple independent oils distribute it and they have a guy that will come down and deliver it to you for free

yeah i gave it a miss, no one wanted to come with me so i went to the gym instead

no worries mate, glad to hear your enjoying it i had a 32 that ran like crap, put with it for about 6 months and sold it - found out from the ppl i sold it to that the exhaust cam was 1 tooth out and it goes like stink now if only i had known oh well, my stag shits on that thing anyday

seems like its set up a bit wierdly the line that runs to the solenoid should be plumed into the pressure side of the boost controller or blocked off if the bc has a good source already the arrow on that small block should point to the wastegate unplug the old stock solenoid and block off that line, its probably giving you a boost leak <----- Try this first and tell us how you go

there isn't a massive tidal range in dev so the ramp isn't normally too bad the only thing you might struggle with is if they put you down in the depths of ship, the ramps going down are quite steep but i'm sure if you ask the ppl who guide you on they will let you stay on the main level i got on fine in my stagea, but its not much lower than stock

not so much warm cloths needed, more wind proof saying that, today is amazing - sunny and cloudless will a small breeze just wearing a light jumper but get up to some altitude and the temps will drop and your car will love you for it when your down near deloraine or launceston look for a road called lake highway - its high and twisty and very good

i did what he did ^^^ so i can run low boost if i want to = saving fuel and prevent the mrs from getting speeding tickets in my name

^^^ x2 to this there are restrictors int he vac lines of the stock setup and MUST be removed if you have an aftermarket controller or it will f**k up also check for boost leaks causing excessively rich running, things like carbon canister, bov hose clamps, idle thingos (most of it is behind the j pipe, just before the throttle body)

think its all been summed up so far, i'll back it all up tho i've grounded out my stock solenoid through a switch which means i can use the low stock boost setting all the time or the high boost all the time by grounding out the solenoid you are actually allowing air to escape the wategate vac/pressure line back into the intake and effectively lowering the pressure the wastegate sees = more boost most rb25's see a dip in power at around 5000rpm for some reason with a stock tune, i think its just nissan protecting the motors with the tune new coilpacks and a nisstune will see you with more power, more torque and better fuel economy for not much over $1k all up but putting some URETHANE SEAL COAT on the coilpacks will give you an indication of their condition too (check the plugs while you have the coils out too)

or find someone selling a blown rb20 turbo cos they have 10psi actuators and bolt straight onto r33/34 turbos

i have no problems here running 10psi on my RSfour S oh, and that urethane stuff is the shit

anyone want to arrange a time to meet up and cruise down? i'm keen to go

buy here you will pay more for the same thing if you import plus it stimulates the australian economy cos it keeps the $$$ in aus rather than sending some of it to japland i picked up my manual stag for 13k and it was originally listed at 19k

ultimately it comes down to you if i ever have the money i'd get a toy to play with, something like an s13, gtir, r32 (or maybe i should turbo my r31) saying that i will still hopefully highflow mine and get a nisstune etc if you want more boost you could prob highflow your stock turbo for $1k by hypertune if you already have a nisstune then just get a retune for about 16psi without injectors i think the power/money limit for the neos is about 220awkw because at that stage your at the limits of the stock ecu(without nisstune), stock turbo, stock injectors and stock afm once you do those then your all good for a fair bit more power as for track times, they should do ok because of the wizardry of the 4wd system, saying that i struggle to keep up with my mates e36 325i depending on the road and he only have 140kw at the engine but it weighs much less and he drives like a mental patient some times (but last time we went for a thrash my rotors were warped and i had nfi where we were going and it was getting dark) either highflow and tune or sell but bear in mind that the market is pretty slow atm so you prob wont get what you want for it and it could take a while to sell i'm sitting in the same boat as you atm - the stag is awesome but its a bit thirsty, a bit heavy and handles a bit averagely (but some sway bars could fix that last one)

i cant believe no ones has mentioned changing the o2 sensor as part of a fuel saving tip its probably the sensor that wears out the first in most cars and its the most responsible for the amount of fuel used at cruising/steady speeds you can get them for $80 and 99% of the time they are lazy and not operating properly everyone should also note that the o2 sensor is only used under about 3500rpm and is ignored completely at 100% throttle

what ecu will you use?

i usually god for a quick drive and watch the temps then crack (but not remove) the bleeder bolt while hot (although the jap sticker says not too) and wait for the bubbles to piss off

what about this? Click! i drove as far as lilydale today and its a good road through the back near Bangor and it brings us back through the sideling we could meet up 9ish chill and chat for an hour leave at 10am get to Scottsdale for lunch/photos Back in town early arvo

did an oil and filter change today guld western s6000 sougi - awesome stuff car runs sooooo smooth $68 and its the same spec as motul 300v or royal purple (shits all over penrite, nulon, castrol etc)