pipster11

uh oh ^^^ x2, i ran nulon in my r32 but didn't put enough k's on it to notice, then ran it in my stag and once it cracked about 5000 kms it started to get loud gulf western sougi s6000 all the way

on the uoa front they are really popular in the us and most auto stores do them (used to belong to a us suby forum) if more ppl here used them they would get cheaper and if you do them regularly you can know exactly when your oil needs a change ppl were getting another 5000kms out of their oil because it had not broken down or not full of contaminants yet also, if you work at supercheap you can get s6000 for about $45 according to my mate, and its cheaper than m5000

that sucks, well let me know when you want to borrow it and i'll come round (guessing you can't drive to mine lol)

only thing that wont work it the check engine light trigger pulse? as in trigger to the injectors? or the coils? or from the cas?

got a new boost gauge hooked up (apexi copy i got off my mate for free) much easier to read without the smoked lens and its a mechanical one, not stepper motor also took out the turbo timer cos i don't use it anymore, does weird things with the alarm - if anyone wants it send me a pm (greddy full auto turbo timer with plug and play loom)

anyone want to give my stagea a go? "lightning yellow" (same as r34's) dayz front bar with carbon bit in the middle r34 front brakes (blue) 18's (but put whatever you think will look good, maybe lenso d1r lookalikes) minus the mud too lol

my stagea one is pretty much the same its my only car so you can only have it for a few hours tho or you can use my ecutalk and plug a laptop up to it

neo rb's have cvtc its the r33 rb25's that have the on/off vct

shannons are usually the cheapest but you have to be in a car "club" and over 25 (sau counts and you can be under 25) i think they are underwritten by aami like justcar so the price should be the same i'm with justcar and its about 1,400 / year paying by the month (~$130/month) (20 y/o, rating 3ish, no claims, couple of points lost) with justcar, you have to have an aust standards immobiliser that is installed by a pro

if you don't get lots of heat into the ar1m's they are dusty and chew up the rotors a bit the hpx are supposed to be better on the street - better performance than bendix ultimates and very little dust (the dust is a light colour apparently, not black) so either brake harder or get some hpx's instead

tea tree oil

i thought m35's ran 12psi stock? you didn't even make it to 10 if its highflowed, its good to about 20psi but 14 will be safe with the stock ecu/boost cut

i dunno much about the gtrs mate but with the catch can you want to run the line that goes back to the intake into one side of your catch can then run the other to the intake so the blow by goes through the catch can on the way to the intake you can put some steel wool in there too to catch the vapour too (make sure no small bits are gonna come off tho

unplug the afm and if it runs (2000 rpm rev limit tho) then there is your problem you can do this if you ever need to limp the car anywhere

yeah, it really should be sold as a semi-syn

there is still heaps left tho and if it gets used up quickly they may make another batch

+1 to sougi i run it in the stagea and its my daily dunno why you wouldn't use it, its the same price as nulon syn and lasts at least twice as long (had nulon in b4 the sougi and it got noisy at about 5000 kms)

gulf western s6000 sougi group 5 ester based full synthetic which is on par with motul 300v chrono but the GW is only $60 from a distributer (call gw to find one in your area) check out the 'goods on oils' thread in the general maintenance section

hey mate i'll be back on the gc soon (in syd airport right now) thinking this might be a cool gadget for the stag can we meet up so i can have a squiz at it?

yeah or you can get factory oversized pistons on the others it should have a 1 or a 2 stamped into the top of the piston that will be the size that that bore was honed to at the factory dunno if you have to go bigger if you hone tho

your half right mate the awd sump is wider tho, so you need the awd rb25 block to match up to the awd sump so technically an rb26 bolts straight in

thanks, the guy on ebay said that if i can get him some nissan part numbers he will confirm it for me now i just have to find where i put nissan fast

me? or another guy you know called pipster?

im gonna have to do my outer tie rod ends and the rack boots just wondering if its worth doing the inners at the same time? and does anyone know which car they share the inners with? (r33 gtr?)

dunno if this belongs here or not but http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-OUTER-TIE-ROD-END...es#ht_500wt_877 tie for ends for $50/pair with free postage they say stagea so if they don't fit you should be able to get your money back (they are listed as the same part number as the r34 ones too)