pipster11

would probably be the same, its the same block, whats inside and on top changed

the flange that the turbo bolts onto is t3, you can buy t3 spacer plates in different thicknesses and its a standardised size all you need apart from that is 2 flange gaskets (manifold to turbo gaskets) for either side of the plate, then water and oil lines etc you have a lot less mods with a highflow, but then the power output is limited (still good for ~18psi tho)

hey, just wanna check the voltages my o2 sensor is running and wanna be a bit more scientific that the flashing engine light so does anyone have a consult cable and the software that they would lend me or run for me? let me know Thanks, Tom

will just be a gasket goo/sealant supercheap have a stand with about 10 different types - pretty sure all auto places should have one, just read through their descriptions

vl's leak water from the bottom of the windscreen and it dribbles onto the ecu, thats holden for you so i doubt its that water could be getting forced up at highspeed into some wiring, slow down and the water doesn't reach - just my theory anyway giving the plugs/connectors a good clean cant hurt anyway

you can only use r33 rotors if you have r33 calipers, they are different offsets and sizes and you will score the 33 rotor if you put it on and drive i've also heard very good things about the qfm a1rm pads

thats sweet, at that sort of k's 10w40 is fine, you could use 0w40 but it doesn't make much difference as to the original problem, i'd say its water in something electrical do you have a pod?

what he said, stock is 7.5w30, then you add one weight rating every 100,000kms (only need to change the latter number) => 0/5w40 for most stageas why would you need to put thick oil in motors with such good tolerances from factory and still have hone marks when the motors are pulled down?

i would say that he means try the throttle off an elgrande, you will probably find that the plug is different but the mounting dimensions are similar like most nissan stuff (i've got a r32 tps that could fit onto my r31 if i wanted it to)

r34 gt-t brakes + qfm a1rm pads + slotted rotors = win thats if its a series 2, if its a series 1 get r33 gts25t brakes (12mm caliper bolts to suit s1, s2 have 14mm bolts like r34's) this is what im planning to do eventually

lol, i get that comment heaps and i've yet to do the dump, i think its the intake side that makes the noise tho just to clear some things up, series 2 c34's run neo motor and turbo, the neo turbo has a larger rear housing compared to an r33 rb25 turbo, the compressor (inlet) wheel is also nylon on neo turbos to reduce spool time i would say that its the nylon wheel that makes them sound different to previous rb's

you may wanna think about making a cover for the front of the radiator to help the engine getting up to temp your trans oil passes through the radiator to help keep it at a constant temp and it is possible that its not getting warm enough i was watching a program (ice road truckers) and they had trucks running in temps a bit colder than yours and some had most of the front grill blocked off to prevent overcooling i presume

jaycar iebc + hand controller (still waiting for it to arrive) ~ $50 for iebc, $67 for hc, $7 for connector and $7 for postage alpine type r 6 inch coaxials for the rear doors - $80 from a mate and maybe a new o2 sensor for it too as i found out that the neo can use the el falcoooon sensor too and i can get one for $66 cos my mate works at supercheap

rad, i should have read on when i read it the first time looks like my next purchase is gonna be one of those cant wait looks like 450kms from this tank hopefully (its been raining = mad sliding action)

happy christmas everyone, may all your boosting related dreams come true in the new year

i was sitting at 250kms at exactly half way - nearly stock rs4s mostly city driving too, was prob on the highway for 50kms anyone know if there is a cheap replacement to the neo o2 sensor? like how u can use a falcon one for 33's i dont really wanna pay $200 from kudos motorsport for a nissan one

i like the idea of being able to have two settings, im thinking of 1 for high boost quick onset and a 2nd that the boost keeps building up to a max (snow mode as i'll be going to the snow later this year) which will also be easier to keep off boost = better economy

Hey guys, if you dont know i own a s2 rs4s my parents asked what i wanted for chrissy and im thinking of getting a Jaycar ibc and hand controller Through autospeed its about $50 for the ibc and $68 for the hand controller and only $7 for delivery for both items or from jaycar its $80 for the ibc and $68 for the hand controller and $14 for the connector is it worth getting? car is currently running the 10psi high boost mod, front pipe back exhaust, pod and $5 intake mod and put out 138awkw when the prev. owner had it i wasn't going to up the boost too much more but my long term aim is for 200awkw (i think, or 250awhp) also, i'm ok with soldering but have never built anything like this b4 but have installed stereos, re-soldered boards (heater motor in a 32), etc. Will i be able to build it? feel free to elaborate on your answer Thanks, Tom

have you bedded the clutch in properly? your supposed to drive really softly for about 1000kms before you go anywhere near WOT otherwise it will slip will also f**k up if you didn't get the flywheel machined

thats pretty thick, if its a neo motor the stock nissan oil is 7.5w30 10w60 is 3 weights heavier and unless it goes to the track and sees temps 30°C+ higher than normal then its way too thick i'll be running 10w40 max, will prob just use 10w30

didn't get a good look but the gf said there was a yellow stag parked in the carpark at pac fair probs at about 9ish this morning

mine has the dayz carbon front bar, i swear south east qld has the most yellow series 2's in oz

same spec as the gtr for attesa (the p/s looking res in the boot) use genuine nissan power steering fluid asside from that use anything that is fully synthetic you need diff fluid that has the lsd additive in it (castrol do a full syn one, think penrite does too) just use stuff rated for r33 gtr

dyno sheet from the previous owner think the mods were - 3 inch dump back exhaust (stock dump) and pod filter thought there was already a topic for stagea dyno results

me and a friend did this mod today on both our cars got the 3 inch pipe for free from an exhaust shop, had some hose clamps kicking around and only needed to buy one (~$3.50) on his r33 with stock air box the spool noise was louder and may have been a tiny bit more responsive, benefits may be seen when he eventually ups the boost on my stagea rs4s (manual) it was very much the same, although im running a pod it was louder again just to add a note, you can push the pipe in a long way inside the intake pipe so it effectively smoothes out the inside of 70% of the rubber piping. good mod for minimal costs