Girorostar

recently went with a pressure washer under my car to clean the suspension area and to my surprise i noticed HKS springs. I have the car for 7 years now and never knew. And can't find any info about them on the internet. No wonder my car always felt so stiff on the road.

A friend of mine only believes in cheap ebay turbo's. Last week he ordered his 4th one, cost him around $130-150,-. The 3rd turbo lasted him about a week before it blew the seals. If you add all the cost he payed so far he's probably way above a good reliable turbo. The 2nd turbo got him a 14.50 sec at the strip and around 20~ish psi, totally useless scrap of metal. With the stock toyota turbo he went faster lol. That's my 2 cents.

Hey mate lovely cars you have. That r33 sure was sexy. Which front bumper did you have on it? It looks stock but isn't. Really love the looks of it.

yes you can just follow this guide for things you'll need. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403711-top-feed-rail-in-r33-with-stock-plenumyes-it-can-be-done/

Lovely ride. What rims and tire size/ offset are those?

Thanks, i will have a look when i get home later tonight.

hello guys, for the people that have a precision turbo installed or have installed these in project cars. What size oil feed fittings did you use? I've searched on google and found people saying -3 AN some say -4 AN and some say -4 AN with a restrictor. So i'm confused as to what i should use. I have a precision 5857 that i bought long ago and i'm now able to install it and want to know which fittings to use so i dont blow the seals. Thanks in advance for the help.

Thats why i wanna buy the BC coilovers, havent heard anything bad about them yet. If the KYB shocks are my problem then i'll stop dragracing for a bit till they are replaced. Good thing it doesnt axle tramp on the road anymore, atleast that will keep me sane for awhile.

Well the car has stock springs and shocks still. I replaced the shocks with the same KYB items that it came with. Didnt change the springs. And it was axle tramping before i changed the shocks. Thought it was worn shocks but problem is still there. I'm thinking of buying BC coilovers next year when money permits. When i install the subframe back i checked if there was any movement, from front to rear no movement, only movement is when you rotate it to spin the wheels. But i'll check again to be sure.

Years ago when i bought the car i had the kumho ecsta supra on it and was getting way better traction and no axle tramp. which is making me believe its something worn in the suspension and not the tires. Thats why i change back to them to see if its the tires to rule them out. But i am going to buy some micky thompson ET streets later on. so my question is, could the tailshaft center bearing cause excessive axle tramp? Just to rule that one out too because i can't seem to find a place that sells them in the US (closer to where i'm located). Gonna buy whiteline lower control arm bushing too to have all the rear bushings replaced. Thanks for the reply.

yes, had kumho ecsta supra as well, same problem. To add, i dont have any vibrations when i'm driving on the road with normal conditions. Car drives smooth. Only when i go to the drag strip i get this problem. From 1st gear to 2nd. After that smooth all the way to 4th. But i'm getting very bad 60 foot and i want to fix it grrr..

hello guys, I'm having the same problem here so didn't wanna start a new tread about it. Ok, so i've been having bad axle tramp for about 2 years now ever since i installed a ACT 6 puk clutch. Before this i had a XTD 6 puk clutch which was probably a weaker clutch then the ACT but didnt have issues. Been trying to diagnose the problem ever since. I know other people with the same clutch that doesnt have the problem so i thought its somewhere else. Been reading a lot on the forums and started changing different things. Here's a list of things i've dont so far. Checked tire pressure. From 20-35 PSI. I noticed on 29-30 PSI i have less axle tramp. Tires are kumho KU36, i also tried kumho ecsta supra with the same results. Changed subframe bushings, differential front and rear bushings, Upper control arm bushings. And i've check all the other bushings to see if they're worn or have play in them. From the moment i dropped the subframe i noticed that none of the bushings seems worn but i changed them anyway to whiteline items. I checked the car height. at the rears its at 350mm from center of the wheel to guard. Checked shocks, front shocks were leaking so i changed all 4 shocks. So i've done all these and still have axle tramp. But now i don't have it on the road, only at the drag strip. Before it was on the road and drag strip. This is doing my head in, what else can i do to get this fixed? I checked my engine and transmission mount and they look like new, no vibration when i rev the engine. I did notice this part though that looks old and brittle, but looked up info about it but couldnt find much. if anyone know the part number for this and which other Nissan uses it please let me know. Can this be the cause of my troubles? and here is a pic of my subframe with the new bushings. Anyone with more ideas please let me know cause i'm out of ideas atm, thanks.

FYI before you buy that. That is a piping kit only, no intercooler in the set. as stated in the link: * Complete chrome polish aluminium piping kit ONLY. This does not include the CORE Read the link good before you invest in it especially ebay items.

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I got the rod in. The hole in the crush tube was set at the front of the rod, had to press it back out to adjust it right this time. Thanks again for the info, thought i could change these quick and easy but there's more to it then one can think. Next is the rear suspension, think i'm just gonna pay someone to do that.

D'oH! I have not thought of that. Was checking and thought i have to remove the control arm and tie rod end to make the wheel move. Gonna go try it again in a moment. 1 more thing, how do you actually setup the caster with these crush tubes, i have a bad feeling that the way i have it pressed in is not on the correct position and i'm gonna be getting some negative caster. It's the first time i'm doing these and i'm learning as i go. Thanks again for the help.

Hello guys, I did a search but couldn't find any answers. I need some help with installing these whiteline bushings KCA331. I'm guessing its suppose to be something easy and straight forward but i'm lacking the info i need. I checked whiteline's website to see if they have an instruction manual but couldn't find it. I had to go to a machine shop to get the bushing pressed. Now that i have the crush tube set i can't install the rod. Do i have to take of the control arms too to install the rods? Are there more things i have to take off to get this installed. The car is a 1996 r33 gtst. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. cheers!

Hi and welcome! Have a look in this thread, it is possible but its gonna be a very tight fit and with that adapter i dont think it will fit. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/271404-holset-hx35w-installation-in-standard-low-mount-position/?hl=%20holset%20%20hx35w%20%20installation

with 122mph you should see high 11 to mid 11. your 60 foot must be horrible... What's your 60 foot?

Saw this thread last week in the DIY section, maybe it can help you out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412603-diydisable-hicas-retain-power-steering-for-free/

That looks amazing, i wonder what the engine spec is for that tiny 1.6L 4 banger...

Found this youtube vid using Hanaldo's first link.

What if you rebuild your engine, do you have to go to a thicker grade as well? I rebuilded my engine 2 years ago and i'm using 10-30 mobil 1. Dont have no thicking sound or anything and oil pressure seems to be good. But people keep telling me to go something thicker but i'm not sure if i should.

I had that exact same noise when i rebuilded my engine. I told my mechanic to check the timing again if its not that to pull the engine apart again, not sure what he did though but a week later the engine was running fine and no problems 2 years later now. I'll give him a call and ask what he did. I didnt have to pay a lot extra so i dont think he pulled the engine apart again.

was it hard to get the engine in the 350z? Always wondered if its a lot of work. Nice car btw and a great threat!