djr81

It allows people to ignore the tyre diamater. Just about every Skyline ever built is running something different. They may only be 10mm out or whatever but it is enough to make a nonsense of the measurement. Unfortunately it makes the camber settings influence the result where previously they would not.

Been looking at the telecast details. We get a highlights package at 1 am tomorrow. Then one the following day. Great.

It was probably always destined to turn pear shaped after Hamilton showed he was as quick as Alonso. Not many evenly matched drivers who are in the same team and are championship contenders get along. I can't actually think of any at the moment. Maybe Andretti & Peterson.

I didn't say they cheated. Your argument appears to be that because a bunch of mindless rock apes who don't know enough about F1 to differentiate an engine from a pair of tits support the only team they have heard of the governing body should allow Ferrari to get away with blue murder? Presumably punishing others for being competitive aswell. It is bad enough that they keep shovelling money at them. I used to support Ferrari. When Prost went there to drive the John Barnard designed 640 (Surely one of the prettiest F1 cars ever built) I was more than happy to see him win races & somewhat crestfallen when he couldn't bag the championship. Unfortunately after they sacked Barnard & then Prost it went downhill. In fact, any lingering integrity they may have had went into terminal decline when they signed all those dodgy bastards from Benetton. F1 doesn't need Ferrari anymore than any other class or category of racing needs any one team or car company. F1 has survived the departure of Alfa Romeo, Mercedes Benz, BMW, Honda, Jaguar, Ford, Renault, Lamborghini, Maserati to name but a few. It has survived the loss of great teams like Lotus, Brabham, Cooper, Alfa Romeo (again), Tyrrell, BRM. It has over the years survived the downsizing of the entries from anything up to 40 cars to less than 20. It has survived the loss of brilliant drivers like Clark, Rindt, Peterson, Villeneuve, Senna amongst a host of others. F1 would easilly survive Ferrari departing - something you couldn't say of Ferrari. Tifosi is basically the Italian translation for bogan. Funny how the FIA investigated what Stepney had to say about McLaren, but couldn't be arsed lifting a finger to do anything about what he said of Ferrari. Bottom line is all the teams routinely expend a great deal of time & effort finding out what the others are doing. Ferrari included. Apparently the appeal is set for November 15. I don't hold out any hope that the FIA will reach a proper verdict.

You can put a manual gearbox at the rear in the same way you can put the DSG back there. Porsche have been doing it for years - atleast they did when they built front engined cars.

GT-R's have always been horribly nose heavy. Why would this one be much different, gearbox location aside?

The floor was ruled illegal by the FIA. Otherwise everyone would be using the locating system now. I am of the view that the rules are there to be followed. Deliberately engineering a way around the testing system by using pre-buckled (Not sure what the exact term was in the end) locators in obvious contravention to the rule (just passes the test, obviously violates the intent) is a pretty shabby way of going about things. Ferrari have gotten away with this sort of shit too much in the past few years. It is not the 1980's anymore. Whatever peoples view of the floor, the way Ferrari happilly used their disregard for the rules to try to prove their claim (In collusion with the FIA) that McLaren brought the sport into disrepute was disgraceful. After all these are the same people who convinced the FIA (at a critical stage of last years championship) that Renault's mass dampers (located inside the bodywork) constituted an aerodynamic device.

Just out of interest Turboedsloth how heavy is all that stuff? I have heard all sorts of varying estimates.

This heap of sh!t below is the "Mode Door Actuator". It if from an R32 GT-R & resides in the drivers side footwell on the left behind the trim panel that sits below the instrument cluster. Anyway is there a part number & how much is it? Because I am sick of have no mode door actuation. Thanks in advance.

The part the hoses plugs into (Don't know what it is called, sorry) can and does suffer from corrosion. This has the same effect as having a restrictor in the rubber hose. So maybe change it for a known good one. Also a stock R32 ECU doesn't have a MAP feed. Strange but true. If you have a stock ECU it is not an ECU problem.

Just make some up out of some plate....

Like this you mean?

Illegal floor in Melbourne.

It used to be true of the car dealers under the old scheme - some of them atleast. A broker isn't making money from the purchase price of the vehicle so to a large extent he doesn't care how much the car itself costs. Good brokers will steer you towards good cars - their reputation depends on it. Also grade 3 for a early nineties model car is still a car in good condition. Very few of them will make grade 4 any more. Buying one locally or from Japan is only risky if you don't know what you are looking at or doing. A trusted broker can reduce/remove the risk of a fresh import & a knowledgeable person can do the same for a local car. What tyou have to be a bit carefull of when looking at japanese auctions is to factor in the difference between the auction price & the free on board price. The auction price will always be less.

Well Ferrari ran an illegal car and didn't get penalised at all. (Again) So there isn't really much point looking for consistant enforcement of rules (real or imagined) from the FIA. By the way, no one accused McLaren of running an illegal car.

It looks like the front of the castor arm. (radius rod in other peoples language) www.noltecsuspension.com $167.20 for the pair. NSB_77.pdf

If you are worried I would suggest the following: First up, check the timing. Insufficient ignition advance will make the car feel sluggish. If that is ok then take it to a dyno & get it run up. Check the AFR's while you are there. Then you will know for sure. What you need to remember is that you very quickly get used to how "fast" a car feels - particularly a turbo car as it lacks immediate torque. As often as not a car with a flat torque curve will feel slower than one with an uneven one. Despite the first of the two being quicker.

It doen't hurt, although the front backing plates are nowhere near as close fitting as the rear. I wouldn't get too worried about it. If you want to use Motul fluid use the RBF 600, not the dot 5.1. It is far superior. Check the boiling points, for example. Take something to drink aswell. You will ge gobsmacked by how hot you get in the car after only a few laps.

Yes, see the Defi range of guages. Um, you need the gauges you look at to be in the instrument cluster, not the console. If I had my choice I would flick the front torque gauge & the fuel gauge to the console & put the boost & oil temp gauges in the instrument cluster. But anyway they look roughly the same size, but the wiring would be a bitch to sort out. Not much room behind between the printed circuits & the gauges for messing about. Best bet is if you are worried about this stuff is to get a proper data logger & a warning led for when stuff goes outside the parameters eg too high oil temp or whatever.

The major problem with GT-R ownership is putting up with GTS-T owners telling you your motor is in imminent need of a rebuild. Don't believe the hype. Of the four (count 'em) R32 GT-R's I have owned not one of them needed rebuilding. The best thing to do is as follows: Be patient. Make sure you have sufficient money to buy a nice example, I would suggest $25k is enough. I wouldn't ever recommend anyone borrow money to buy a car. Any car. If you are buying it in Australia, check it over thoroughly. This includes things such as compression tests etc. A well looked after GT-R will look a million dollars. A manky one can be picked from a great distance. If you are buying ex Japan get a trusted broker who understands you want a choice example & who wont fob you off with second rate stock on hand. With regard to track use/abuse. Typically a track day will cause wear to the brakes & the tyres - neither of which you place much emphasis on when buying the car. Beyond that it gives the engine some work, but the time spent on the track during a typical day is fairly limited, so there isn't really much concern. I have found that most GT-R owners who can afford to run track days lavish care on their cars anyway. But most Gt-R owners rarely attend track days. The thing to keep in mind is that in this day & age you can't thrash a car like a GT-R on the road - you quickly find yourself in a pile of trouble if you do. Look for a fairly stock or a sensibly modified car. Most will have rims, exhaust, few will have an aftermarket I/C (you don't need one the GT-R OEM cooler is one of the best in the business) & possibly about half will have pod filters (Which you don't need) With regard to other stuff people have mentioned: Rust: Relatively uncommon. If it is rusting check for damage - this is most probably the indirect cause. Gauges - the stock ones are fine but the oil pressure sender unit frequently fails. Not a gauge problem. Kms - look at the car. Buy it on condition not on kms. Brakes - Unless the rotors have been replaced most will be down on thickness. Be prepared to replace them. Brembos only came on V-Spec edition R32's, so forget about them. Turbo's - stock units have problems when asked to regularly push out 1 bar or more. They are a reasonable unit, but not a high performance one. Have a think about what you want from you car. A good car will push out 300rwhp (or more) with stock turbos on 13lb boost. How much power do you want? Remember that when released this car was over $100,000 in Australia, less in Japan. So someone with a large amount of momey bought it originally. If it has been well looked after it may well be the best car you will ever own. As I said I am onto my fourth.

Front bar to soft, rear to hard. Try & find some more -ve camber at the front. (Note than caster is +ve, not -ve). Lower the rear to 345 or thereabouts.

Relative to the Whiteline springs I have to say I prefer them. There is noticeably less spring travel over bumps but to be honest you tend to notice this less than you notice the lessening of the damping rate relative to the spring rate. All up the cars a more comfortable although you notice the larger bumps more as you would expect. I have yet to try it on the track, but that is the weekend (4th November) after next so I guess I will find out soon enough. There is a query left over from one of Scooby's posts about the amount of travel remaining between the damper & the bump stop - particularly at the front (Bump stops trimmed). Do you know how much that is?

Ride height was about 350 to 355 (can't remember when the photo was taken.) I don't remember what the travel remaining on the damper was, sorry although you definately do need to trim the bump stop otherwise it is completely inadequate. The Eibach were installed yesterday. The front did not need any extra grooves, but the rear did.

Interesting. I asked because the conditions you have over there are probably pretty similar to what we have in WA come summer. Both temperatures & the amount of sand.

fffffffaaaarrrrr........................k