djr81

I have an RB26 just about to undergo a rebuild. Nothing spectacular the number will be about 500rwhp on 20lb's. Obviously it needs a head gasket of some sort. Are there any preferred styles/brands etc. What size should the gasket be relative to the pistons? Does (say) an 86.5mm piston need a certain sized gasket that may be different for an 87mm piston? Lastly there are a number of different thicknesses available. Is the 1.2mm thickness essentially the "stock" size. EG 11044-RRR46 Nismo Metal Head Gasket

They just have large signage on the launch & test cars so everyone knows who the tyres belong to. By the time they start racing properly the tyres will be covered in black so you wont even notice the branding. Hell half the time it was near on impossible to pick who was on what tyre anyway. Anyway McLarens look better in orange so who really cares.

Bolt pattern?

After a pair or four Rays CE28 rims. Prefer 17 x 9" in either a +15 or +22 in titanium silver. Need to be 5 bolt 114 PCD (ie for an R32 Skyline). If you have a different rim from the Rays range Re30's, TE37's etc (as long as the size matches) I would also be interested.

Seriously, juest get a dry cell. It depends on how many amp hours you think you want but it can save quite a few kgs. This is just on Amazon. Proper Braille motorsport battery. Braille Battery 11.5lb, 904 pulse cranking amps, 360cca, 15amp/hr 1yr warranty - Left Side Positive Terminal Cost is $160 + freight. You can get other larger capacity (amp hours) locally for not much more.

From that description - if it is priced reasonably - buy it.

Lets see it is wired into the loom for the ATTESSA computer. So how about we take a stab in the dark & suggest it controls the torque split for the car. Or the flux capacitance of the system if you you prefer that terminology.

Can I ask where you ordered them from?

There were two issues: 1. The wings that were banned in the late 60's were designed such that the downforce acted on the wheels (uprights) not the chassis. There were a number of failures with nasty consequences, mostly on Lotuses. So they changed that rule to ensure the wings acted on the chassis and removed the struts that held them up. 2. Moveable aerodynamic devices were banned because it not only includes wings but fans etc. Also moveable devices are far more likely to fail than fixed wings & the consequences of failures are pretty dire. They are only really a bandaid solution anyway. As for Melbourne a coupe points come to mind. 1. The circuit is rubbish. 2. All sorts of inflamatory statements will be made to help people with their bargaining position. Best to ignore all of it. Oh and look Ferrari are trying to look Italian again. Bit like Lotus trying to look English or Renault French or oh you get the idea.

I quickly checked the Tomei price. Cooling channel version $3000 for the six, normal version $1780 delivered. the Mahle pistons are approx just over half as much. As far as coating go I wasn't bothered with titanium this or that, or ceramic coating the crowns - more interested in a low friction coating for the piston sides. HKS - part number 2103-RN017 lists as $2124 delivered. 2103-RN021 lists as $1585 delivered. So the Japanese stuff doesn't appear to be particularly good value. It may, however, be more suited (As opposed to more generic although that is just conjecture) How do Mahle pistons go for noise? I'll have a look for Ross stuff also.

There are a few vendors in the States (A few, a hundred....) from which you can import. Not sure if Summit list them, however. You will avoid import duty but may get stung for GST. Still at about $1k + shipping & taxes they are good value. As an aside is there as equivalent forged piston thread out there? I looked & didn't much like the CP's (Mostly for the O/S valve cutouts), wasn't 100% sold on the Mahles (Clashed with oil squirters) & dont know much about Wiseco. The Japanese stuff appears to be expensive & I bereft of coatings. Any ideas?

The I section versus H section argument is about as interesting as shovelling muck. In this case the H pattern rods are marketed by Carrillo as being stronger. http://www.cp-carrillo.com/Tech/RodTech/tabid/76/Default.aspx

There is a little company called Carrillo who make nice rods. H or I pattern, take your pick. Just over 500 grams for a rod with bolts for the heavy duty rod which is about 120 grams less than stock. So less reciprocating mass & more strength. Win, win. Your budget is about right.

Well that all sounds (& is) good but it doesn't count for much when you cant pick up satellites or the auto start feature doesn't work on half the functions. Or for that matter you send it back to get fixed & they pronounce it fine when it just isn't. Anyway fingers crossed the new ones will be better.

So which of the two semis do you reckon is better? Not that a semi of any sort is good for anything much, but I digress.

Advice: Don't bother with cams, have a think about cam gears however. A smaller version of the 2860 turbo would suit - either a -7 or a -9. Personally I prefer the -9's but each to their own. A twin plate clutch with a lightened flywheel is a good idea. Also check the Nismo AFM's as they will work at higher air flows than stock without the mucking about that the Z32's entail.

Actually the tyre as often as not weighs the same or more than the rim it attaches to. So the unsprung weight differential betwwen say a 17" & an 18" rim (assuming they are good rims not chrome rubbish) is minimal. As an example a rim + tyre is of the order of 20kg in a 50kg corner. More tyre width equals more grip (generally). So a fatter tyre on the rear will promote understeer. Which is pretty much what Skylines do anyway. I would strongly recommend the same size tyre on both ends as it will help the balance and allow them to be rotated to even the wear out a little.

Actually I am pretty sure I messed that up. 2 port for ABS 3 for no like you say. The parts listed should be 3 port, not 2. It was my description which is wrong the part number is ok AFAIK. Also the non ABS master cylinders are typically a size down from the ABS type. So whereas a Brembo GTR will run a 17/16" cylinder for ABS they run a 1" for non ABS. The Sumitomos are 1" & 15/16" respectively. So my thing has a 17/16" unit which replaced a 1" unit when I changed the brakes over.

Try 46010-05U01 & 46010-05U21. Should be a 1" bore, 2 line output unit from the N1 R32 R with Brembos. Not sure if it is a "BM57", however.

The smaller diameter track tyres will be cheaper - quite a bit cheaper. Also 19's have somewhat limited availability due to fewer people running them. First step is to figure out what tyre you want (eg Bridgestone RE55, Toyoa RA1 Yokohama etc etc) then find out if you can get them in the size you want then find out how much they are. From a performance point of view the rim diameter is down the bottom of things to worry about.

Going back to the original post - you said you wanted to upgrade everything for adjustability. A couple points 1. You dont really need to. 2. Much of the Nismo stuff doesn't adjust anyway. If stuff is flogged out by all means replace it. But replacing stuff for the sake of it is expensive. Nismo stuff is here: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/skyliner33.html

Transverse arms are usually referred to as control arms. The front has two - upper & lower. The rear has three. A lower arm and two upper arms. The front upper arm is usually known as a the traction arm/rod. The thing in the previous post is a castor rod and or tension rod.

Having recetly tried to buy some CE28's there is some bad news. Rays appear to have reduced the range of colours & offsets of a number of rims they offered. Upshot is there is a chance you may not get the rim you want in the colour you want anymore. So be a bit carefull. As an aside if anyone has any CE28 (10 spoke) in a 17*9 +15 in titanium silver let me know.

I have one. A little underwhelmed to be honest.

Run front callipers on the fronts, rears on the rears. Otherwise your balance will be rubbish. Nothing wrong with Sumitomo rears either. Front rotors are 324x30mm for R33/R34 GTR's. Rotors are the same on the 33's & 34's - on the front anyway. Rear is a little more complicated but basically the same.