Moodles2

Varex mufflers... pretty good exhausts. Not something that belongs in the same sentence. They've been reported to be restrictive even when the butterfly has been fully open, not to mention illegal anyway.

I've heard of these problems in the past where someone has got a wheel alignment and all of a audden have HICAS problems.

The disc's usually have an extra threaded hole where you can screw in an old bolt to help move the disc.

What kind of boost sensor, factory for the stock gauge, aftermarket for aftermarket gauge etc?

I'm not sure how R31 ecus work, in a R32 and beyond I would suspect the coolant temp sensor (not the one that feeds the dash cluster, the one that feeds the ECU), when not functioning it might not be going into the cold start map (richer than the normal one).

Generally 14psi (14.5psi exactly with the restrictor removed) is the "tried & tested" method for old R32/R33 ceramics, heat (high boost, retarded timing etc) and detonation (lean mixture, Bee*R limiters etc) is what most contributes to ceramic wheel failure. A person has reported one of their wheels dislodging at 2psi cruising down the highway, though it was a R32 from memory, so it can happen anytime at any boost pressure. Since the R34 turbos are still newish and ball bearing it's very unlikely this won't happen for at least afew years, I don't think anyone has reported a turbo ceramic wheel failure with R34 turbos yet.

From what people who have done back to back dyno testing with a stock manifold vs ported manifold I've spoken to, have said they've lost response getting rid of the lip (porting) because exhaust velocity was reduced, whereas keeping the lip does act as a restriction when your power target is beyond the 350kw mark. Some workshops have confirmed this when I've contacted them, they even recommend keeping the stock manifolds as they are for -9 (GT-SS) & -7 (N1) turbos for response.

RHDJapan is a good source for Nissan OEM parts, you can also try Jesser Streeter if you know the part numbers (having a copy of Nissan FAST helps).

Mine makes noises at idle as well, but don't hear it while in motion. I'd have to hear what yours makes to make a comparison though.

Auto box from a AWD stagea might be an option, I have no idea if it will bolt straight on though.

They are an engine rebuilders dream.

3 I believe

The oldschool method for doing an oil flush, is dumping the old oil and refilling with a combination of diesel fuel and ATF. The diesel cleans it out, and the ATF lubricates. I wouldn't recommend doing this at all though.

QFM A1RM

Narrowband sensors get damaged when they're not powered as the heater can't burn off deposits. It sounds like you're using Nistune, there's are afew ways to ignore O2 feedback, one of them is to set the minimum engine temperature which the ECU will accept O2 feedback (defaults at 30C) to something high 200C where the engine has no chance of getting that hot, this way they will at least be powered.

Injector latency is different even between same brand. An example is this pair (Denso made injectors). Sard 700cc 0.65msec, Sard 800cc 0.75msec.. so you can imagine the latency difference between 725cc and 1000cc.

On a side note, Tomei make the pumps for Nismo

I've seen 2 reports of these Fuji coilpacks (red) misfiring on N/A skylines, 1 coilpack failing within the first couple of weeks.. i'd hate to see how badly they perform with more added stress (turbo skyline).

Any oxygen sensor (wideband or narrowband) needs to be powered (heated) to burn off any crap, by having it disconnected, it is most likely rooted by now.

It's standard on all skylines, it's the Ghetto Mod warning alarm.

Out of all the cars I've owned or driven, my R32 GTR's powersteering is the lightest, infact so light I could control it with my thumb and index finger. There is definitely a problem with your PS. List of things to check: Low fluid levels, slipping or missing PS belt, underdriven PS pulley, steering wheel taken off (aftermarket or standard) and not aligned dead centre when put back on etc

For that price, you really should consider something more modern like a Link G4 (just an example), best to speak to your tuner about which ECU they prefer.

In service manual, GTR rear diff takes 1.5L, people have reported getting 2L in there. A viscous diff from a GTS-t might be different though

English for starters.

First the ECU needs to be locked before any adjustments are made, either by doing it via consult, or disconnecting the TPS sensor (or was it the AAC?).