bozodos

Same goes for NSW and VIC, I ended up selling my atmo Turbosmart one, just due to several cops seeing it sitting under the bonnet then deciding to use that purely as the basis to go all over my car, anything chrome or painted like that tends to draw the wrong kind of attention.

I've started replacing all of my worm drive clamps as they fail with T-bolt items - you have to really tighten the buggery out of them but they hold! I had to get a mate to weld ridges onto my metal piping onto the turbo after the silicon join just kept sliding off no matter what though, made a huge difference with 18psi going through it - I've gone from about 5 vacuum leaks to one which is only needing to trim the pipe down to fix!

the thing is though, where do all of these 80's and even 90's model cars keep popping up from then? surely they aren't being sold from the wreckers or something like that!

I wish it were just the O2 sensor in mine (not hooked up at all due to Microtech) I get around 350km to fuel light from full, with new plugs and oil, and not really getting over say 4500 rpm. That is with an RB25 in a GTS-4 though. Might try turning EBC off and see if its any more economical at stock boost (it's tuned for 18 psi though) The cat was blocked though which unblocking did see a small rise in economy.

So you repeat a bunch of half arsed hearsay ITT mattikin1. Mine supposedly had done 99000km when it came here and 126 000 when I bought it, now given the wear on the steering wheel / gear selector boot and handbrake boot, I found that hard to believe - I was thinking it had done something closer to 200 000km actually. From what I recall, due to the registration system in Japan it is often more economical to keep buying a new car every three years rather than pay a rather hefty registration fee, though of course not everyone can afford that. I think at the end of it, you're playing roulette when it comes to a grey import in terms of pretty much everything.

Yep the one sold at Autobarn (took the wankers a month to actually get my Apexi filter in - and I only ended up getting that through a fellow Skyline owner working there - the manager and other staff CBF with anything other than K & N and DR/FT). I've seen one other thread about that brand, and yeah their seats feel cheap and shitty, nor would I ever use any kind of 'performance' part, but for things such as consumables - well no matter which way you put it, there's only going to be so much R&D into a pod filter, just that the Blitz one I had was still letting dirt through! (It is very dusty around here however). I was curious because I recall a thread about oil filters, and one of the reputable engine builders on here stipulates when he builds a motor that a magnetic DR/FT oil filter must be used as a condition of warranty? Just going off a vague recollection here. I don't like using cheap shit in my car personally, but 150 bucks for a pod filter is still a fair amount of cash, especially when they are recommended to have the element changed at every 5000km and I live in a dry, extremely dusty environment.

I found some of the director's earlier work -

well the blitz sus power one i had was shit, just got an apexi power intake which seems to work a lot better. Btw do any of you have evidence that drift brand filters are actually shit? Apparently its a JDM brand?

carbon boot? I lol'd at the pic of the obviously US 240SX with the honda badge dangling off it - every time I see a Honda or anything associated with them I always think of Fast and the Furious

I'm not having a dig at anyone in particular lol, i'm just saying that most people are going to think it's really really lame! (that said i'm not against stickers, only having JDM ones on falcondores or having shopping lists of brands you don't actually have on your car)

mine dosen't read in a percentage of duty, its what I think is opening time in milliseconds? how high is too high?

atmo BOV will be causing it probably

you'd probably find that most people would miss the point completely and think of you as a complete gaylord (a la having a shopping list of stickers)

possibly a boost/exhaust leak then? have you checked all your piping, vacuum hoses, exhaust flanges and the rest?

Had the same problem, turned out to be a blocked cat (not before the backpressure blew out the non standard exh gasket though)

+1 for sound advice in here, especially from the guys who've been around a while. This thread makes me kind of scared now - I've got standard (i think) injectors with an aftermarket fuel pump and KKR pushing out 240rwkw, though the other day I did hit max cycle according to the microtech when doing a full throttle run in 3rd to program my Profec boost controller. Only happened once but it did give me a fright, might be some food for thought re getting some 500cc injectors, especially with my tune being rich as hell.

even with it adjusted I just get a red light after startup, so its obviously not working at all, what do you mean about the tacho signal?

woooah the bots are getting bigger! That looks like it could have been quite easily a much worse crash, is it hard to find replacement parts for one of those?

I can't find any listings for Rodney Jane Racing wheels however

sounds like the same problem as what I mentioned in the Microtech + GTS-4 thread.. so dundersmurfen you just hooked up the TPS signal wire from your aftermarket ECU to the TPS out wire on the original loom and it worked fine?

Yeah I've got a worn 4th synchro on my AWD box, looking at Redline as a possible stop gap for the near future - I don't want to have to try and pull out a GTR box unless its absolutely necessary to change the synchro, I'd like to know if there were any other gearbox oil which has a similar effect to the Redline without the insane price though. I have found that sometimes I can fluke a perfect shift into 4th, as the gearbox warms up, this becomes harder. My mate keeps telling me that I should learn to change without the clutch, but I'm too scared of making it worse lol. When i got my NSW roadworthy last year, the previous dickhead owner had something like a 20% tint on all windows, I only had to pull it off the two side windows as it was a coupe. A local mechanic told me that the law was the same in NSW and VIC.

I used to like the whole atmo BOV thing, over it now after it was the one and only excuse for the cops to defect me, just get a decent recirculating one or blank the stock one off imo.

Yeah I've already adjusted TPS at idle to exactly 0.4v with a multimeter, and then tried alternately connecting wires 56 and 38, then connecting wire 56 to the grey TPS signal wire on the Microtech - the other thing I should have done was pulled out my subs and amp and checked the error codes being thrown up by the ATTESSA computer to see if there was something else wrong with the system. The part I'm still unsure about is whether it definitely needs some sort of extra circuitry or whether joining the wires is enough. (when I bought this car I was told that the standard computer need only be piggybacked onto the Microtech, stupid me for not getting the previous owner to test this out)

I saw a Celsior in Adelaide with the plates VIP, looked pretty much exactly like what you want! mm heated massage leather seats...

maybe on a NA car...