The Bogan

Evenly worn, tyres at around 50% $300 Or swap for 2 R33 GTR rims, in any condition (rash OK) as long as they are not buckled or cracked

As the gear box in the boat has gone kaput I am forced to sell my bike to raise some $$$$. It is a 2010 KLX250SF Motard with a 300 barrel and piston fitted by Red Baron Motorcycles. The origimal barrel and piston which were replaced at 3000k will go with the sale. Reason for 300 kit was because it sounded like a good thing to do at the time. TK Pipe with jets to suit, Renthal bars, disc lock. The bike was used as my get to work bike in sunny weather. The thing is a weapon in the traffic with instant turn in, exellent visibility and cheap on fuel and servicing. The model is also learner legal. Rego till 15 March 2013, rego costs $112 a year and the green slip cost me $245.99 Price is $4800 or nearest reasonable offer. Thanks, Mark Pics

Got some from Kmart, mixed size bag of about 20 for $10, 5 had velcro tabs on them for puting them on a towel rack but the others were fine, size ranged from 200 x 200 to 400 x x400. The kids got me a name brand one for fathers day which most likely cost more than the pack did but was no better quality, a few even looked exactley the same. There was even one with micro fibre on one side and a plastic like super soft scourer on the other which is great for getting the brake dust and road grime of rims without scratching. +1 for not using fabric softener, I needed to wash mine a couple of times using a heap of detergent and hot water to get them working good again after I used some fabric softener thinking it would be good..

Lets hope some of the cars make it to the SAUNSW dyno day at UNIGROUP. And the drags at WSID next Wednesday night.

I havent been to the new shop yet, sounds like a plan

When I was a P plater I fabricated a 2 1/4' polished copper tip for my LJ GTR with some material I got out of the scrap bin at work, that was in 1981. Thats how we use to roll. That exhaust tip and wearing a onion on my belt pulled the chicks.

Thanks mate, its was fun, apart from the f**king rocks, and my standard size brakes trying to slow me down from 245kph so I didnt hit the big white cones.. RB25/30RWDFTW Good luck for me but bad luck for some other cars with the radar playing up, my last run was about 1200, apparently the radar glitch happened after I left. That yellow 34 GTR was puching a heap of power to, there is a linky somewhere with incar footage.

Last time at the Creek on the scales with me in it (80kg then, fatty) it was 16??, no carpet/sound deadening/no rear seat, it does have a steel Bonds half cage in it though and a full tank of fuel . Unless the scales were faulty ????? I might have to re-weigh it without the anchor

I did it and it was very wrong, my boat weighs about 1600 kg = 3527 lb, my trap speed is around 133mph, it said I had 647RWHP. On the dyno at unigroup it says about 500hp ATM, so thats 150 stray horses my car does not have. The ET one was at least partialy right with my 3527lb and 500 hp giving a 11.17, my best is 11.13, but the trap speed was 122, its missing the 11mph that I do have.

The new GPS systems are great, better than the old UBD on the lap. Alot of people shouldnt have their licence, there is so many bad and dangerous drivers out there, from the young kids who think they are good drivers to piss heads, people on the phone, yelling at kids in the back seat, ect ect ect Defencive driving is where its at 24/7

And then.............

Thankyou for clarify this issue, its good when a subject matter expert helps out a newbie with a quick and to the point explanation, its good to see them help people with their wealth of technical know how, I would say its even good for business.

Not enough black Looks good though But not enough black Do you have a build thread ?

A yes with a reason and I shall never be seen in this thread again. A no with a reason and I still wont be here again because I have said what I believe to be correct due to many hours of searching and my own prior research on spark plugs and correct gap sizes. .

I know this topic has been done to death but if you find my method flawed please enlighten me as I am always open to opinions that may prove me wrong. I may be old but Im still open to some learning.

Iridiums will still lose some effency after 10-20,000 klm. If you service your car every 5,000 klm put in fresh coppers every second service, on every other service pull the plugs and clean the electrodes with some fine emery paper and regap. I have always done this and never had a problem even running 380 @ 22 psi. Iridiums are designed for lazy people who do not service their own car, the less plug changes over the 100,000 saves some money but will effect performance. I want all my killer wasps all the time. The $30 or $40 dollars every 10,000 klm makes good performance sense to me.

Car cleaned, serviced and packed, already, Im not heading down till around 0430 Sat morning though, but then Im a big fan of: Prior Preperation Prevents Piss Poor Performance Plus the missus is at the shops getting her hair done so Im at home alone "getting my shit done" whilst drinking beer. At least she told me she was getting her hair done ???????? Who cares, Im going boosting on Saturday and then filling my gut with dead animals whilst drinking beer and talking car shit in the evening, I call that a win win win win situation.

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly . My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned of and it has got into the pads. After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced. Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

If you go to a fixture specialist shop for your nuts and bolts they will cost you you about 30 cents each, m5 x 10.

I take it that no prizes were ever given out.

Even on the lowest stetting I was still getting around 130psi (9 bar) from it, thats why I had to get the regulator installed which bleeds of the extra pressure with a return line to the sump.. Now it sits at around 100 psi (7 bar) @ 7000rpm, seems fine, at least I hope that it is, quite a few track days and some drag racing later and the bearings are still where they are meant to be anyway. Anyone know what the max psi that should be run ???? On a side note Im heading out to UNIGROUP this arvo to pick up a new 1mm restrictor, if your cars running and you need me to do some rev limiter bashing hellies in it just let me know......

MLR was here. Regulator ? Like mine ? We could be like brothers that look nothing like each other but have the same demon pressure oil pumps. .......

People in a range of $200 shit boxs doing skids till the tyres blow, or the engines blow leaving oil and coolant down on the skid pan at the end of the return road, but do they stop there, hell no, they keep cooking them till the tyres come of the rims and leave debris and fluids everywhere. The guys try and clean it up but bits of wire and shit from the tyres get stuck on the surface which then get stuck on my/everyones hot sticky tyres. The monkeys get about half a hour to do this which eats into about 60 runs per lane. So 120 people miss out on runs because 4 or 5 $200 cars want to impress the people with there awsesome skills at doing lame skids in crap old bombs. As I stated before, the only highlight is when they hit a wall. Anyways, if I get there early I usually get 5 or 6 runs in before its "STOP, MONKEY TIME"

Have talked about this but the logistics is a PITA, does it get tuned boost/road speed for the drag radials or the semi slicks or the road tyres. To be honest its only the drag radials or semis that get a flogging but the traction difference between the two is fairly large. The drag radials on a prepped strip are near perfect for the boost, the semis could do with some more work in this area though, but the poor old Hankooks Ventus RS3 street tyres though are in trouble everywhere under the top of third. For a all rounder the tuning does suffer a bit due to the different amounts of traction for different disiplines, if it was street or track only the issues would be easly fixed, but alas Im trying to do three things with the one car. Is fun though.